I know that you state that you have rotated and balanced the wheels and tyres however I had exactly the same issue with mine up until recently. My tyres all looked good and had good tread however I decided to change the tyres for new anyway. All my vibration and tram-lining troubles disappeared straight away. Car is so much nicer to drive now.
Maybe someone could swap wheels with you to see if this is the case?
1998 e31 840ci Sport, Individual. 2008 Aston Martin DB9. 2016 4.4 SDV8 Range Rover Vogue.
1959 Triumph Bonneville, 1969 T120R Triumph Bonneville, 1975 T160 Triumph Trident, 1990 Harley Davidson Fat Bot Grey Ghost, 2009 Triumph Bonneville 50th Anniversary model. 2014 Suzuki Gladius.
Did your vibration issues happen when braking? Wouldn't faulty tires cause issues when accelerating as well?
Either way, new tires were put on all 4 sides when the suspension work was first done. Since then, he says he has tried changing the front tires to see if that would help but it hasnt.
Yep, that's exactly what entered my mind when it happened, just once.
Actually pulled off the road to check if my lug bolts were still in order.
And to add, you will wonder whether you are physically capable of holding onto the steering wheel.
Should I hang on or should I let go? Dang, don't remember the owners manual talking on this particular point.
NOT a mere shimmy. Timm has discussed the difference.
For those who comment on bushing wheels tires etc, they clearly have not experienced EXTREME VIOLENCE.
Bushings, fluid, wheels, tires? Yeh, right, sure.
My instincts are that Cartoonz and I are on the same page, the braking system.
Just haven't come to a precise agreement, MC hardware vs ABS software.
Between the two of us, I'm probably more of a witness to high-tech systems suddenly going off page, in a Murphy's sort of way.
You describe a FCAB failure,
yes the wheels violently shake when you apply the brakes.
Just replace the master, they are not much more than a Benjamin. If the doesn't fix it, you can keep throwing darts at the board, but I like to actually use the histories of a whole collective of cars to know what the common fix is for a set of symptoms. *could* it be the ABS or some complicated freak thing hardly anybody ever sees? Sure, but not likely.
Thanks guys, I've decided to try replacing the master cylinder. I was reading through the thread again and someone said that (post 13) the 7 series master cylinder only works on cars built before 94. Does anyone know for sure if I can use a 7 series mc on a 96 car?
I found this mc for a 735:
https://www.bavauto.com/bmw-brake-ma...UaAq-FEALw_wcB
Much cheaper than the $800-900 they want for one made for a 750 or 850...
any resolve to this drama?
I just rebuilt my 4 calipers fully (so easy) and put new rear pads and rotors on, then I seemed to get a bad shimmy by reusing the damn near perfect front rotors and pads, BUT I admit, I totally mixed up the pad sets and even rotors so when I put it all back together and test drove I had a HORRIBLE steering wheel shake at 100 down to 50 km/hr, which I never had before. So since it was perhaps because of me mis matching pads and rotors, I couldn't figure out what was with what so I just bought new front Pagid rotors and Wagner TQ pads and after install, solved all my brake shimmy and also gave me much better stopping power.
Last edited by clockwork; 04-10-2021 at 01:30 AM.
I swear, my cars are like a girlfriend.
Sometimes its a rough ride, sometimes its smooth motorin'.
Sometimes she doesnt like how i treat her and sometimes i dont like how she behaves.
BUT at the end of the day, she loves it when I am inside her.
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