Whats wrong with my e9 528

[Ttrav98]

So basically I live in Connecticut and it’s december & super cold. My car having 213k miles (manual) starts fine and drives fine for about 10 minutes until it starts stuttering and rpms basically won’t go anywhere when accelerating . Idle is atrocious and the whole cabin is vibrating. However I can shut off the car and start it again and the problem seems to be gone until the next dayish . The check engine light is on.. what could this be??? I’m completely confused with this one

[TheAngryBear]

Read the codes.
I wouldn’t be surprised if you have temperature induced cracked gaskets causing vacuum leaks. But codes will assist in determining.


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[Ttrav98]

Expensive fixes?? Easy??

[JimLev]

Welcome to the forum Ttrav98.
Take it to one of the chain auto parts stores, they will read the code for free.
Make sure you write down the Pxxxx code and then post it here.

[effduration]

What year 528i ? Is it a '99 or '00 ? Are any of the dash warning lights on? We do need the codes to help, but what you describe sounds like the car was operating in limp mode, which can be caused by several issues. In my case ('99 528i), it was caused by a bad throttle body.

[Ttrav98]

It’s a 1998

- - - Updated - - -

Also the traction control light is on

[Yonkers320is]

So basically I live in Connecticut and it’s december & super cold. My car having 213k miles (manual) starts fine and drives fine for about 10 minutes until it starts stuttering and rpms basically won’t go anywhere when accelerating . Idle is atrocious and the whole cabin is vibrating. However I can shut off the car and start it again and the problem seems to be gone until the next dayish . The check engine light is on.. what could this be??? I’m completely confused with this one

Maybe bad thermostat, running cold. Get to autozone and get the codes read for free.... the 6 is childsplay compared to the V8 complexity wise.

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[Ttrav98]

I just got the codes and there was 10 of them... I was told cylinder 3 and cylinder 5 then the guy said to just see a mechanic cuz he didn’t have a definition for the others

[Yonkers320is]

I just got the codes and there was 10 of them... I was told cylinder 3 and cylinder 5 then the guy said to just see a mechanic cuz he didn’t have a definition for the others

He didnt give you the numbers? You could start by changing the plugs, and swapping the #3 and #5 coils with other cilinders 1,2,6,4. And see if the misfire still at 3 and 5 or moved to where you swapped the coils.

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[TheAngryBear]

Without knowing the actual codes it is rather hard to pinpoint...
And not knowing if they are new, pending, etc ...
Next time write them down, get them cleared, go on a drive, get them read again, write those down, and report back.


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[Jason5driver]

Could be a clogged CCV...
I would disconnect the hose that connects to the front of the intake manifold and check for ice and gunk.

[Ttrav98]

Guys I got some codes, here they are P0305 P0303
P1188
P1189
P0173
P0170

[Ed CT]

Based on the codes, sounds like Jason called it. In this cold weather, any condensation in the CVV system will freeze or form that yellow mustard-looking sludge and clog the vent ways. This is what causes the P1188/89 codes. The other codes are likely from the intake sucking in oil. This type of thing happens due to short trips in cold weather when the engine is not running long enough or hot enough to burn off the internal condensation.

You can do one of two things:
Run the engine for an hour to heat things up and clear the condensation. While you're doing this, check to see that your temp gauge is in the center. If it's on the cold side of center, your t-stat may have to be replaced - they fail in the stuck-open position.

The other thing is to replace the whole CVV system. You may have to do this if the diaphragm in the valve has ruptured. Try the first thing first. Your engine has the simple CVV system, so, replacing it is much easier than the later I6s.

[Grim Reaper]

Errors cover both banks so intake track leaks post MAF and CCV system would be the first two items to attach IMO

[Yonkers320is]

Based on the codes, sounds like Jason called it. In this cold weather, any condensation in the CVV system will freeze or form that yellow mustard-looking sludge and clog the vent ways. This is what causes the P1188/89 codes. The other codes are likely from the intake sucking in oil. This type of thing happens due to short trips in cold weather when the engine is not running long enough or hot enough to burn off the internal condensation.

You can do one of two things:
Run the engine for an hour to heat things up and clear the condensation. While you're doing this, check to see that your temp gauge is in the center. If it's on the cold side of center, your t-stat may have to be replaced - they fail in the stuck-open position.

The other thing is to replace the whole CVV system. You may have to do this if the diaphragm in the valve has ruptured. Try the first thing first. Your engine has the simple CVV system, so, replacing it is much easier than the later I6s.

I may have the same problem..... didn't do the reading yet. I left the car at work from tuesday, went today to pick it up, started it up and right away the CEL. Yesterday i started it and there was no light. But it has been very cold, around -10c.... so i will chack the ccv hoses later today or tomorrow. I have a 98 528 too.

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[Ed CT]

Be careful when you guys check the CVV hoses/tubes. They get very brittle with age.

[Ttrav98]

hey guys a little update.. I was just about to change my spark plugs when I took off the oil cap and that yellow sludge everyone was talking about was on that and In the oil... wtf??????? Also reeks of gas. Someone please help

[Yonkers320is]

hey guys a little update.. I was just about to change my spark plugs when I took off the oil cap and that yellow sludge everyone was talking about was on that and In the oil... wtf??????? Also reeks of gas. Someone please help

There is a oil vent system that gets clogged up and causes that oil mayo, plus the extreme cold makes any oil vapor freeze and makes the car misfire.
Like some one said previously be careful checking the hoses, because they get brittle.....

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[Ttrav98]

Is it driveable? I’ve been told by a few people to leave it parked and wait for parts to come in ..

[Yonkers320is]

Is it driveable? I’ve been told by a few people to leave it parked and wait for parts to come in ..

If you can remove the top hose and look if it is clogged. You can start the car and let it run and warm up. And it will clear a little, but if it is too gunked up, better wait.

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[Ttrav98]

So I purchased new spark plugs, ccv system (and hose) and fully synthetic for an oil change... should these replacements fix the problem?

[itsbrokeagain]

I'd get the intake boots while youre at it. They'll prolly crumble when removing them to access the CCV, so just replace with new in this weather.

[Ttrav98]

Hey all. I replaced the spark plugs and the ccv.. I still have a vacuum leaks and multiple codes. My abs light also just came on. I have 214k miles. Should I continue to work with the car and keep up with maintenance? When is it time to call it quits? I love the car to death but I need opinions.

[TheAngryBear]

Depends on your finances (compare repair costs to purchase price or payments), intent (I am keeping TAB until cancer, aka rust, kills), and level of comfort working on your vehicle (I am comfortable and am willing to call in pros if needed).
I would say keep it but depends on your mix of the three.


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[Mike WW]

My experience, and I have over 200K on E39s now, is they can be maddening and drive you crazy at times, but unless you just throw parts at them they really aren't very expensive to keep in shape. If I were in your position I would buy a codereader of your own, one with freeze frame so you can see what the conditions were when it coded. Plus you're not running back and forth to the auto parts store.