540i P1346 and P1347 cyl 3 misfire after timing chain guides + vanos

[joekitch]

except that goes in direct contradiction to CW's timing knowledge, he repeated many times that he has never seen or heard of a valve being bent by hand, so this would be experience number 1 of his many engine timings so far.

although speaking of cw i hope he's ok. he's pledged to get things right but i haven't heard from him since friday the 5th

[cheapE46]

Ausfahrt! Teee heee heee!!
I will see myself out now.

[joekitch]

joe's of worcester called back to let me know of some minor pitting on four of the intake valves, saying it'll rob some horsepower and a couple psi of compression. He offered to replace them while he was there, but i'm so checked out of this by now, and running low on cash (all those valves would be another $120 in parts), that i declined.
CW finally got back to me so he'll help get the head back on and re timed once i get the head back.
suffice to say the second the head is back on i'm going to do some compression testing and blow some air onto the valves to see exactly how much psi is gone

[JimLev]

Where was the pitting? If it's on the valve seat he could do a quick lap job on them. OK GG and Snotty, I'm sure you guys are going to pick up on that.

[joekitch]

sounded like the valve itself hence why he was suggesting replacing the valves but man i am not in any kind of mood to spend any more money or time on this than necessary, i'll live with a few less horses

[geargrinder]

Interesting. Jim what did you find on those old heads that are in my basement - any signs of pitting/wear? Prob oughta ask 'Ho what he's found with all the motors he seems to have pulled...

Glad CW is back online and lined up to help.

[scottieducati]

This thread makes me glad I just bent my timing trigger installing my valve cover like ham fisted gorilla (apparently). Here is hoping you're back on the road soon. Wrong time of year up here for all this... :/

[joekitch]

Wrong time of year up here for all this... :/

PRETTY MUCH :|
if things hadn't gotten bent i would have been back on the road the day after christmas.
almost a month later than that...

[JimLev]

Interesting. Jim what did you find on those old heads that are in my basement - any signs of pitting/wear? Prob oughta ask 'Ho what he's found with all the motors he seems to have pulled...

Glad CW is back online and lined up to help.

The valves themself looked OK. You have the heads minus some of the valves, how do the seats in the head look?

[geargrinder]

Too buried in basement to grab quick/easy... When time allows if I remember..

[joekitch]

hey guys i think my valves are bent



IMG_20180118_200733.jpg





also here's the light gap he was talking about. although he said it was only four intake valves, i only really saw it on one of them, i am somewhat worried about how much compression will be lost because of this



IMG_20180118_205225.jpg

[philly98540]

That's not ok. There should be no light showing. Pull those valves too.

[JimLev]

Wow, that ain't good. They need to be replaced or you engine will run like crap and backfire thru the intake.

[joekitch]

oh good lord i'm going to smash my head through a wall at this rate, UGH
what could have possibly caused THAT though?
why did it run fine while i was doing the seafoam (minus the misfire)?
although now i cannot remember if this problem intake valve was on cylinder 3 or not...

[JimLev]

I guess you could try tapping on the valve when it's open to try and bend it back. DON'T let the valve hit the valve seat in the head.
At this point you've got nothing to lose.
You can tell if you secede and the valve is closed tight by turning the head over (combustion chamber up) and filling it with alcohol. If it runs into the intake port you failed....new valve time.

[joekitch]

DON'T let the valve hit the valve seat in the head.

clarify this statement, don't let the valve seat? isn't that the intention? or do you mean don't strike the valve such that it hits the valve seat as it flexes from the strike?

also from where do i get or borrow a valve spring compressor, cw doesn't have one, and at this point i'd much rather just do the thing myself than have the indie do more of it

literally just dropped another $77 on four intake valves and stem seals, i just want to drive my car again ;__;

[JimLev]

or do you mean don't strike the valve such that it hits the valve seat as it flexes from the strike?

also from where do i get or borrow a valve spring compressor

This, see your quote above.

I used an old school valve spring compressor that wouldn't reach down into the pockets, had to make an extension on it with cutouts on the bottom sides to get the keepers out using a magnet.

[JimLev]

I can't take this "As The World Turns" soap opera any longer, when will the produce cancel this series, LOL.
Joe, do you still need intake valves? How many, I have some good BMW ones.

[joekitch]

never seen as the world turns, this feels more like an Always sunny in Philadelphia episode

speaking of which, current mood;

be5.jpg


I rage-bought (is that a thing?) four intake valves and a valve stem seal kit last night from FCP which will get here like monday or something. $77

[geargrinder]

Which hole are the bad intake valves on?

My guess... #4?

[joekitch]

they're sort of spread around, that picture i showed earlier was from cylinder 3 i believe.
tonight i'm going to more fully capture exactly which valves are showing light and how much

[StRaNgEdAyS]

I hate to suggest it... But is the other bank worth investigating too?

Sent from my G8141 using Tapatalk

[joekitch]

I hate to suggest it... But is the other bank worth investigating too?

Sent from my G8141 using Tapatalk

i'll be doing another compression test after bank 1 is on, since i have a baseline from before this mess happened (180psi on all cylinders except 3, give or take a few psi)

[geargrinder]

got the engine timed, exhaust manifold bolted back on, intake manifold placed back on with the help of a forum member

started to put bank two valve cover back on
forgot to put the oil rails back on before doing so
noticed the little valve grommets seemed to not be encountering much resistance which was weird
heard a little cracking noise
now i have a hairline crack in my freshly powder coated valve cover


Attachment 621311
Attachment 621312




and the grommet nuts are stuck on the studs, which backed out with the nuts as i removed them




Attachment 621317
Attachment 621319



the studs are 07129904544 and the nuts are 11121747162 according to real oem, thankfully both are cheap
is it possible to repair that crack with some sealant?
i'm hearing something called pro-seal, aka type B-2, can seal magnesium vc gaps
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages...prosealant.php

i'm really. really getting sick of this stupid car

Joe you're missing parts.

The studs go in the cam caps.
Then the oil distribution rail drops onto them.
Then top-nuts go on top of that.

Only THEN do you put the valve cover on w/ grommets etc.

When you do the top cap-nuts for the VC are designed to bottom out on the stack and not put tension on the cover.

The "under-nuts" are critical (TWSS). If you omit the nuts (let alone the rail...) underneath, then indeed the VC nuts will go down too far and jam on the studs etc. etc. exactly what you saw happen.

See below.

It is not uncommon for the studs to back out when you remove the rail-nuts for sure, they usually thread right back in again though.

BTW there should be no reason you can't remove those studs from the nuts - they don't look stripped... do you not know how to remove a stud with 2 plain nuts backed against each other?

[JimLev]

Like I mentioned earlier...As The World Turns, the soap opera continues. Sorry Joe, had to say it.

To fix that crack I'd use a drummel tool to make a small V groove on the cracks. Then get some MARINE JB Weld, not the regular JB stuff. The Marine stuff is good to 650F IIRC. AutoZone should have it.
This is what I use when I patch up the imperfections on valve covers before I bake them after powder coating.