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Thread: S85 V10 M Roadster

  1. #76
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    Here are some better photos of the headers.

    20180126_162356.jpg20180126_162407.jpg20180126_162414.jpg


  2. #77
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    BTW, complete lack of comment by virtue of being overawed and overwhelmed by what you're doing and how you're doing it. Who are we to comment on this--keep posting.

  3. #78
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    Curious why the aren't symmetrical. Steering clearance, maybe?

  4. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by rf900rkw View Post
    Curious why the aren't symmetrical. Steering clearance, maybe?
    You are correct, the drivers side was very challenging due to steering but he did maintain equal length on all tubes... even side to side.
    Last edited by Z3 M Roadster; 01-28-2018 at 04:11 AM.


  5. #80
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    Too many BSAs
    That will be an awesome engine bay. Those primaries look huge, what size did you go with? Wall thickness?
    Aerodynamics are for people who cannot build engines. Enzo Ferrari

  6. #81
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    I went with 42mm which is a little larger than the stock 38mm, wall is .065" all pieces are 304 ss.


  7. #82
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    Too many BSAs
    Curious, what are you doing for motor mounts? I've seen too many SBCs with a cracked flange to primaries due to oscillations or is the the S85 inherently more balanced? I've driven a Viper, stuff was literally banging around down there on hard acceleration.
    Aerodynamics are for people who cannot build engines. Enzo Ferrari

  8. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by schooner View Post
    Curious, what are you doing for motor mounts? I've seen too many SBCs with a cracked flange to primaries due to oscillations or is the the S85 inherently more balanced? I've driven a Viper, stuff was literally banging around down there on hard acceleration.
    I'm using the AKG poly mounts from my S52 and since I had to build the brackets it worked out well. I've never heard of any cracked exhaust issues with the S85, everything I read says its a well balanced engine. Here's how BMW puts it (The 90° angle has been chosen due to itslow-vibration and comfort-oriented mass balancing properties).


  9. #84
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    Thanks for the update. I should have added tubular headers to my suggestion of cracking as opposed to stockers designed for the lifetime of the vehicle. Big cams and stock mounts might have been the issues with the Chevy small block with header cracking (also 90° obviously).
    Aerodynamics are for people who cannot build engines. Enzo Ferrari

  10. #85
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    Due to the limited room the steering shaft is routed through the header. Because of the heat I felt the aluminum shaft would not fair well I opted for the Vorshlag steering shaft.

    20180122_162039.jpeg20180204_104309.jpg


  11. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by Z3 M Roadster View Post
    Due to the limited room the steering shaft is routed through the header. Because of the heat I felt the aluminum shaft would not fair well I opted for the Vorshlag steering shaft.

    20180122_162039.jpeg20180204_104309.jpg
    Just did one of those for an M3/LS3 project. Not completely confident relying on setscrews alone, I had to put pockets in the shafts.






  12. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by Randy Forbes View Post
    Just did one of those for an M3/LS3 project. Not completely confident relying on setscrews alone, I had to put pockets in the shafts.







    I thought these were already drilled by Vorshlag? so I took it apart just to be safe and it was drilled. I'm glad you brought this up Randy since it can't hurt to double check!


    20180205_113419.jpg20180205_113817.jpg


  13. #88
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    Well you sure have the qualifications to build this. That said our 40 over speed limit will put a little damper on it. The days of Merritt to Hope at 180 are sort of done. That was on my bike anyhow. 159 on the connector is about it unless you have a buddy in a lead car.

    Did you do the welding on the headers yourself?

  14. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by Z3 M Roadster View Post
    I thought these were already drilled by Vorshlag? so I took it apart just to be safe and it was drilled. I'm glad you brought this up Randy since it can't hurt to double check!


    20180205_113419.jpg20180205_113817.jpg
    Cheap SOB I'm working for sourced it from Flaming River, lol! He did spring for the Vorshlag headers, engine mounts and ABS relocation kit__still made me fab the xmsn mount__reassuring to know that Vorshlag goes the extra mile though (sorry I made you doubt them).

  15. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by catimann View Post
    Well you sure have the qualifications to build this. That said our 40 over speed limit will put a little damper on it. The days of Merritt to Hope at 180 are sort of done. That was on my bike anyhow. 159 on the connector is about it unless you have a buddy in a lead car.

    Did you do the welding on the headers yourself?
    Thanks. For spirited drivingI stay off the main highways for those reasons that and too much traffic. Thewildlife is the main concern on the back roads, one moose and its game over orfor that matter maybe a squirrel...
    I had a shop in Penticton build the headers.




    Quote Originally Posted by Randy Forbes View Post
    Cheap SOB I'm working for sourced it from Flaming River, lol! He did spring for the Vorshlag headers, engine mounts and ABS relocation kit__still made me fab the xmsn mount__reassuring to know that Vorshlag goes the extra mile though (sorry I made you doubt them).
    LOL, a buddy I believe is going to go the Flaming River direction for his LS swap and is building some of the pieces himself, partly out of necessity and partly because he can or is he cheap...lol
    No need to apologize, when it comes to steering and braking its smarter/safer to double check.
    Last edited by Z3 M Roadster; 02-06-2018 at 08:55 PM.


  16. #91
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    Interesting. I see there is now an improvement of a collapsible D Rod. That was not around for my build, or at least I did not find any. I like that idea. Much safer in event of a wreck and easier on the rack taking up some chassis flex in place of the rag joint. Though I've not had a issue with the rack using the solid rod. Oh and yes the set screw can back off. I found one loose on a nut and bolt check. So have a look see from time to time. It is always a surprise after many checks one finds an obscure nut or bolt loose that was fine multi times before. I put a little dab of green Loctite on the screw now.
    Dan "PbFut" Rose

  17. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by PbFut View Post
    Interesting. I see there is now an improvement of a collapsible D Rod. That was not around for my build, or at least I did not find any. I like that idea. Much safer in event of a wreck and easier on the rack taking up some chassis flex in place of the rag joint. Though I've not had a issue with the rack using the solid rod. Oh and yes the set screw can back off. I found one loose on a nut and bolt check. So have a look see from time to time. It is always a surprise after many checks one finds an obscure nut or bolt loose that was fine multi times before. I put a little dab of green Loctite on the screw now.

    I didn't know there was a solid shaft, all the searching I did just showed the collapsible one. I agree its much safer in a wreck. How long have you been using the solid shaft? You bring up a good point about checking the lock nuts - I'll be checking them. When I took the shaft apart to check and see if the shafts were drilled, I noticed that Vorshlag had used red Loctite on the set screws so when they went back in I also used.


  18. #93
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    My swap (LS2) pretty much predated the kits. Vorshlag was just starting to offer kits while I was completing my initial build. So all the mounts and such were self sourced and fabricated by trial and lots of error. Kits make for nice clean installs. My project was about trying something only a very few had completed and the challenge of finding parts and fitting was all part of the game. One z3 roadster had been done prior to me starting my project and I think the Hartge was running around in Europe. The Roadster owner’s name was Hanson if I recall correctly. He proved the concept I had thought would work but was too chicken to blaze the trail. After ventilating the S52 block on track my journey was started for me. I initially used a low budget off the shelf bloc hugger header. Cost and skill to fab a header set were not in the plan. It required me to bend the steering shaft so I place a 3rd u-joint mid way and welded a mount to secure the joint. It worked very well. I eventually replace the block hugger style with a long tube set from CX Racing. Good price and build quality, but not quite equal length. Still an over all improvement for a good price and one less joint in the steering system now. Seeing the collapsible version makes me think I need to swap out the shaft simply for safety. These little rockets get up to a dangerous level of speed rather quick. I am enjoying the build post. Keep them coming.
    Dan "PbFut" Rose

  19. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by PbFut View Post
    Interesting. I see there is now an improvement of a collapsible D Rod. That was not around for my build, or at least I did not find any. I like that idea. Much safer in event of a wreck and easier on the rack taking up some chassis flex in place of the rag joint. Though I've not had a issue with the rack using the solid rod. Oh and yes the set screw can back off. I found one loose on a nut and bolt check. So have a look see from time to time. It is always a surprise after many checks one finds an obscure nut or bolt loose that was fine multi times before. I put a little dab of green Loctite on the screw now.
    Using a one-piece shaft instead of the collapsing shaft puts more stress on the u-joints and I have found that either the set screws come loose, or the bearing in the u-joints wear out.
    Jason McDaniel at Vorshlag

  20. #95
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    Some updates:

    I picked up an updated oil pan with 2 drains (left), the early pans (Right) only had 1 drain plug where as the later ones have a drain added to the front.

    20180216_165220.jpg20170520_125309.jpg

    After installing the steering new shaft I noticed it was loose feeling, so I marked the solid piece where it joins the "D" tube and found only 5/8" of engagement. I know this can't be right so I've sent photos and measurements in and I'm waiting to hear back. Anyone else using this steering shaft ever checked to see how much was inside the d tube?


  21. #96
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    Only 5/8” of over lap seems sketchy for sure.

    I would think it would have 2-3”

  22. #97
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    Ok so back in May of 2010 when I installed the poly subframebushings I found the typical floor pan spot welds pulled out and some cracks. Iread a lot about the subject including Randy’s reinforcement kit, but rather thangoing with Mr. Forbes kit I decided to stitch weld the channel and repair thepulled spot welds and cracks. Well if I could go back in time I’d smack myselfup the backside of my head! A little while ago I inspected the original repair andfound it wasn’t up to the power of the twin screw, right about now my I’mbanging my forehead on the desk… dummy dummy dummy.
    With this build I opted to go with Randy’s kit and the Roguediff cover, I’m not going to make the same mistake twice! Here are some photosof the original failure and repair and what has been done so far.


    File0018223.JPGFile0018220.JPGFile0018674.JPGFile0018678.JPG


  23. #98
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    Some photos of the original repair.


    File0018226.JPGFile0018224.JPGFile0018232.JPG

    Fast forward to February 2018 this is what I found.


    20180225_162340.jpg20180303_130148.jpg


  24. #99
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    Here's what been done so far and more damage was found.



    20180303_124713.jpg20180303_123140.jpg20180303_123100.jpg20180304_160703.jpg
    Last edited by Z3 M Roadster; 03-07-2018 at 08:35 PM.


  25. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by Z3 M Roadster View Post
    Ok so back in May of 2010 when I installed the poly subframebushings I found the typical floor pan spot welds pulled out and some cracks. Iread a lot about the subject including Randy’s reinforcement kit, but rather thangoing with Mr. Forbes kit I decided to stitch weld the channel and repair thepulled spot welds and cracks. Well if I could go back in time I’d smack myselfup the backside of my head! A little while ago I inspected the original repair andfound it wasn’t up to the power of the twin screw, right about now my I’mbanging my forehead on the desk… dummy dummy dummy.
    [FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]With this build I opted to go with Randy’s kit and the Roguediff cover, I’m not going to make the same mistake twice! Here are some photosof the original failure and repair and what has been done so far.
    Well, don't feel like the Lone Ranger. Lots of people have attempted to reweld the pulled spotwelds and assume the issue is resolved. Unfortunately once that's done, they've blocked the possibility of it recurring from their mind, and when rediscovered the damage is much worse.

    At least you didn't use any scrapmetal that would be in the way of a future repair, like this genius engineer did...







    Based on the work you're doing so far, with the V-10 swap, I just hope that the finished look of your trunkfloor/diff mount reinforcement doesn't make the ones I've done look bad!

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