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Thread: S85 V10 M Roadster

  1. #176
    Join Date
    May 2002
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    SW Florida
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    12,035
    My Cars
    99-01 M Cpe & Rdts, X5M
    Yes, I can get you the #s off the tools (I got them from the TIS) but you're going to need a good counter-person to convert them to "modern" numbers.

    Yes, they ARE BEEFY!

  2. #177
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Kelowna
    Posts
    655
    My Cars
    '99 M Roadster '08 135i
    Thanks I appreciate it. I have a very good connection to convert the numbers.


  3. #178
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Arida Zona
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    My Cars
    z3
    Wonder how one of those would do on an M62 jesus bolt... may have to pick me one up!

  4. #179
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Kelowna
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    655
    My Cars
    '99 M Roadster '08 135i
    Quote Originally Posted by BimmerBreaker View Post
    Wonder how one of those would do on an M62 jesus bolt... may have to pick me one up!
    Pretty good I bet.
    I've had one for years and its had a hard life working on semis !!!

    20181204_081524.jpg
    Last edited by Z3 M Roadster; 12-06-2018 at 09:51 PM.


  5. #180
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    SW Florida
    Posts
    12,035
    My Cars
    99-01 M Cpe & Rdts, X5M
    Quote Originally Posted by Z3 M Roadster View Post
    Thanks for the link I checked it out on my lunch break.





    I like the OE tools Randy I've only seen the BMW drawings for them, the look robust! would you mind sharing the part numbers?
    The hub adapter/bridge piece is: 33 2 110/116
    The pusher-outer is: 33 2 110/117
    The puller-inner is: 33 2 110/118 (for ///M axles, Z3s use a couple of different ones, depending)
    The puller-nut w/thrust bearing is: 33 1 360/363

    Note that the numbers have "groups" (110 or 363, for example). It's possible to buy the "set" comprising of several components, or purchase the pieces separately (110/116, 110/117, 110/118, etc.).

    These four (4) pieces are just some of the group of tools purchased to do the rear wheel bearings on our cars, there are numerous additional pieces to do the bearing job from start to finish; the four (4) numbers above are strictly to push out the axle(s) and to draw it/them back in.

    ALL these tools are listed in the TIS for the relevant jobs, I figured that if I was going to work on these cars, I was going to do it right!

  6. #181
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Kelowna
    Posts
    655
    My Cars
    '99 M Roadster '08 135i
    Quote Originally Posted by Randy Forbes View Post
    The hub adapter/bridge piece is: 33 2 110/116
    The pusher-outer is: 33 2 110/117
    The puller-inner is: 33 2 110/118 (for ///M axles, Z3s use a couple of different ones, depending)
    The puller-nut w/thrust bearing is: 33 1 360/363

    Note that the numbers have "groups" (110 or 363, for example). It's possible to buy the "set" comprising of several components, or purchase the pieces separately (110/116, 110/117, 110/118, etc.).



    These four (4) pieces are just some of the group of tools purchased to do the rear wheel bearings on our cars, there are numerous additional pieces to do the bearing job from start to finish; the four (4) numbers above are strictly to push out the axle(s) and to draw it/them back in.

    ALL these tools are listed in the TIS for the relevant jobs, I figured that if I was going to work on these cars, I was going to do it right!

    Thank you Randy this is very helpful! I couldn't use TIS,I've been waiting for the new power cord for my laptop. I agree having theright tools for the job is the way to go!


  7. #182
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Kelowna
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    655
    My Cars
    '99 M Roadster '08 135i
    So my source checked into the tools, the original part numbers are NLA and have superseded to newer numbers that are also NLA. What BMW has now is a $7000.00 hydraulic tool!!

    That gave me an idea why not my own hydraulic tool, I have several port-o-powers. Maybe this weekend I'll have some time to design a tool to hold the port-o-power and a piece to attach to the axle.
    Last edited by Z3 M Roadster; 12-07-2018 at 04:33 PM.


  8. #183
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Rock Hill, SC
    Posts
    361
    My Cars
    2000 BMW M Roadster
    I get jealous of Randy's tools, but then again I'm not a pro and only work on my own cars.

    My "force multiplier" is a part from an old treadmill that fits nicely over a 1/2" socket wrench.
    IMG_20150730_204342.jpg
    Last edited by pine1000; 12-07-2018 at 05:24 PM.

  9. #184
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Arida Zona
    Posts
    25,272
    My Cars
    z3
    I recently traded an E39 540i M-Sport for an E60 M5 needing engine work... guy said it needed a high pressure oil pump. We couldn't get it to even start (guy said it ran, just poorly). Wouldn't turn over by hand either. Some further investigating and I saw the throttle body gasket for cyl 6 was not seated properly. After getting the plenums off we also saw metal shards under the throttle plate on cyl 6...

    Borescope down cyl 7 just to give you a good baseline. 125K of hard fought miles as the car had an 8,400 redline thanks to a Dinan tune



    Very healthy... Now lets look in cylinder 6...



    Notably less happy



    Suspect that the improperly seated gasket on that cyl allowed it to run lean, causing it to detonate near 8,400 rpm, ejecting the piston straight down into the crankcase... not uncommon for these to shoot pistons out the side of the block either. This one was just kind of cool because the crank basically swallowed it... will be a cool piece of shop furniture for sure!
    Last edited by BimmerBreaker; 12-08-2018 at 12:48 PM.

  10. #185
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Willis, TX USA
    Posts
    2,241
    My Cars
    98 MZ3, 01 325iT
    Oh, you wanted a piston with that. That's an optional extra.
    George Roffe
    98 M Roadster
    01 325iT


  11. #186
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    SW Florida
    Posts
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    My Cars
    99-01 M Cpe & Rdts, X5M
    You're sceering me; Dinan tune on Sue's new (well, 2016 CPO w/16k miles) X5M.

    Dinan's website says their intake, exhaust and piggyback are good for 702 hp (716 if it's Stg-2). From the pt#, I can't tell if it's Stg 1 or 2, but does it even matter?



    IMG_7498.jpg

    And Pine, you've just got to do what you have to do!

    Incidentally, there's going to be a whole lot less of working on other people's car__at least that was the plan before Sue decided she needed a new X5M! And yes, she saw the listing, and wanted it all on her own without any coaxing from me (although, she KNOWS I harbor deep-rooted feelings for anything ///M).

  12. #187
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Arida Zona
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    z3
    The S63 in that X5M is a totally different motor than the V10 S85

    Ours was also abused pretty hard by the previous owner as well lol
    BMW Reproduction Fabrics < Link has been fixed!


  13. #188
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Kelowna
    Posts
    655
    My Cars
    '99 M Roadster '08 135i
    I had some time this past weekend to work on the roady. Did some reinforcement on the RTA's but sill have to add the pieces for the sway bar end links before they go to powder coat. Also the new bushings arrived, this time I went with AKG and a higher durometer. I'm not concerned about any added harshness or noise. Last time this was all apart I used powerflex purple bushings front to back and they were great, absolutely no squeaking! and no complaints.

    20190106_142033.jpg20190106_142114.jpg20190107_185009.jpg

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  14. #189
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Columbia, SC, USA
    Posts
    117
    My Cars
    2000 BMW Z3 2.3
    I ran the purple powerflex on the RTABs and they got to where it was constantly squeaking as soon as 3 weeks after regreasing. Ended up going with some pretty expensive spherical RTABs that don't squeak and work/look amazing, especially with the adjustable caster-camber kit. Now I just have the purple powerflex on the sway bar bushings, and green bimmerworld subframe bushings. When I reinforced the rear end and used the M3 diff cover I just used a fresh set of rubber diff cover bushings this time around instead of the solid green poly that kept compressing and getting loose. The high durometer RTABs you have may not squeak like the softer powerflex, but I suspect they would bind if you are running a caster-camber kit. Since you seem to have pretty solid funding, I would encourage you to look into the spherical RTABs I mentioned, as they don't bind or squeak.

    https://stim.tech/reinventing-e30-rtabs/

    https://stim.tech/product-overview-e...-rtab-inserts/

    https://stim.tech/product/e30-rear-t...l-bearing-set/

    I'm not affiliated with them, I just happened to be the first US customer last year, and have been very happy with the quality of the product. I think they are working on a pushrod suspension setup for the E30 now as well.

  15. #190
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    1,241
    My Cars
    1999 Z3M, 1999 2.8 Coupe
    Quote Originally Posted by Randy Forbes View Post
    You're sceering me; Dinan tune on Sue's new (well, 2016 CPO w/16k miles) X5M.
    Buddy's X5M (also a 2016) grenaded its motor @ under 10k miles. Dealer was cryptic, but something about a failed oil pump or blockage or something like that.

    Warranty covered the motor ($35k!) and it was in the shop for about 6 months. He just traded it in for an SQ5.
    Nathan in Denver

    1999 M Roadster, VFE V3 S/C, Randy Forbes Reinforced, Hardtop, H&R/Bilstein, Apex PS-7, Supersprint
    1999 Z3 2.8 Coupe, 1 of 2, Manual Swapped, M Suspension & Brakes, M54B30 Manifold, Style 68's

  16. #191
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Kelowna
    Posts
    655
    My Cars
    '99 M Roadster '08 135i
    Quote Originally Posted by TommyMaddox View Post
    I ran the purple powerflex on the RTABs and they got to where it was constantly squeaking as soon as 3 weeks after regreasing. Ended up going with some pretty expensive spherical RTABs that don't squeak and work/look amazing, especially with the adjustable caster-camber kit. Now I just have the purple powerflex on the sway bar bushings, and green bimmerworld subframe bushings. When I reinforced the rear end and used the M3 diff cover I just used a fresh set of rubber diff cover bushings this time around instead of the solid green poly that kept compressing and getting loose. The high durometer RTABs you have may not squeak like the softer powerflex, but I suspect they would bind if you are running a caster-camber kit. Since you seem to have pretty solid funding, I would encourage you to look into the spherical RTABs I mentioned, as they don't bind or squeak.

    https://stim.tech/reinventing-e30-rtabs/

    https://stim.tech/product-overview-e...-rtab-inserts/

    https://stim.tech/product/e30-rear-t...l-bearing-set/

    I'm not affiliated with them, I just happened to be the first US customer last year, and have been very happy with the quality of the product. I think they are working on a pushrod suspension setup for the E30 now as well.
    What I found works best with poly bushings is anti-seize, others have found marine grease works well. I never use the grease that comes with the bushings I find it just doesn't work very well.

    Thanks for the links, those bearings look interesting. I'll give them a call.


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