Who is going to do the ECU tune for you?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1999 M Coupe
It will depend if I go with an alpha n or not.
I've made some progress withe the electrical but also had to remove a few more connectors and wiring from the M6 harness. Needed the vacuum pump for the brakes, what a pain in the ass that was! wiring going from the engine bay to the interior pass thru a rubber section that filled with butyl I understand why they did it but still... it wasn't long an that crap was all over me. I also got the trans mission harness installed.
20180923_140337.jpg20180923_140309.jpg20180923_140320.jpg20180923_155508.jpg20181008_131131.jpg
Last edited by Z3 M Roadster; 10-08-2018 at 05:22 PM.
Eh, close enough. Turn the key!
Nathan in Denver
1999 M Roadster, VFE V3 S/C, Randy Forbes Reinforced, Hardtop, H&R/Bilstein, Apex PS-7, Supersprint
1999 Z3 2.8 Coupe, Headers, 3.46, Manual Swap, H&R/Koni, M Geometry/Brakes, M54B30 Manifold, Style 42
At what point did you realize that fabricating the headers and engine mounts was the easy part?
Far cry from the early days of engine swaps, when all you needed was a hot wire to the coil, a screwdriver to short out the starter solenoid, and you were off down the road!
I tried but it didn't start...lol
Actually Randy I gave the wiring a lot of thought before starting on the swap, like you said the headers and mounts are the easy part!
No kidding, I remember helping my grandfather and my dad restore model T's and the flathead fords along with the Chryslers with 331/354 Hemi's. Honestly I'd be lost working on one now!
Thanks, that's seams to be consensus with most tuners I've talked to.
Last edited by Z3 M Roadster; 10-10-2018 at 11:15 PM.
A far as running AlphaN goes, I had an Evolve AlphaN Tune on my E60 M5 with zero issues. I had the tune for about 3 years before I had a slight hiccup, but it involved the throttle application for the SMG. A simple email to them and they sent me an updated tune and all was well.
indaily drove the car and the AlphaN Tune was night and day compared to stock. I had it paired with stock catless Headers and the Evolve Intakes. And then I had a set of long tube headers installed. Throttle response was probably the biggest difference. Hope this helps the previous discussion about AlphaN.
Bump for updates, been over a month!
- 1of1 rebuild (build thread) -
- Wanted Car items - FS: PnP aftermarket alarm details -
- Coupe Custom Subwoofer box - FS: Z3 Coupe LED 3rd brake lights -My Website for DIY content and parts: Double Bee Garage
Most of the guys I've talked to like the Alpha N and have no issues. Thanks for your input it does help, I have a plan...
Hey Robb it has been a while! sadly I haven't had any timefor the car, work is stupid busy and thanks to daylight savings its dark when Iget home. Also working with wires/connectors when its cold is very difficult.So here's an update, the new tires arrived last week I've been torn between theMichelin PS2's and the Proxes R888R's. And the winner is...
20181015_164155.jpg20181118_144525.jpg
I picked up a second DME, one will have a standard tune and the 2nd will be Alpha N. This way I can chose which is the best for this application.
Last edited by Z3 M Roadster; 11-19-2018 at 08:29 AM.
I must have missed it, but what wheel size are these Proxes are going on? What is you front and back tire and rim size? I am trying to get some rubbers for my new Apex rims that are wider then OE, but I don’t think I could stick 315 in the back. Thus I went with 10.5 rim in the back. I think proper size for that is 285-295.
Last edited by DimrBimmer; 11-18-2018 at 09:22 PM.
Smart move on the DME, I always try to get a 2nd DME to put supercharger tunes in.
Those tires, when both are mounted on the car, do they leave enough gap between them for the differential?!?!
This hits too close to home... Trying to fit a 06 Tundra V8 into my 97 4Runner.
The sun gets down before I get home too
IMG_20181027_171637.jpg
Last edited by robb1887; 11-19-2018 at 09:49 AM.
You didn't miss it I forgot to mention it, they are on 11" Apex EC-7 on the fronts its 9" with 255 35's. The wheels in my signature 255 35/18 on 9.5's and 295 30/18 on a 10.5
Well I'm hoping the diff will tuck inside the barrels looking something like this
superpac-steamroller.jpg
Its good to see you're still working on the Toyota project!
I want to make my 1.9 4 pot into a 5.0 10 pot now... This is going to be one heck of a ride good sir. Following to see the final product!
Well I had some time after work yesterday to strip down the half shafts, figured while they were off the car it would be a good time to inspect and replace the boots since they are the original 19 year old ones!
20181201_125414.jpg20181201_114026.jpg20181201_125411.jpg20181202_140758.jpg20181202_140731.jpg
Unquestionably the dirtiest job on our cars!
I keep a couple of inner/outer boot kits on hand, in case I come across a torn one__but I hope they dry-rot on the shelf
Do not take a short cut and use a mallet to hammer the shaft back into the splined TA race. I took my new rebuilt shaft over to BMW and had a "Tech" install for me since I do not have the BMW tool to correctly pull the shaft into place. He took the short cut unknown to me the first time and damaged the CV just enough that it pulled the differential output flange out of position when at speed. It would not pull out the flange unless I was at high speed. I thought I just got a bad rebuild till I went in the second time and observed how he was intending to "install the shaft. Use the correct BMW tool or you my not like the results.
Last edited by PbFut; 12-03-2018 at 06:07 PM.
Dan "PbFut" Rose
You got that right Randy!! WellI hope these ones last another 19 years...
Somehow I don't think you'll get that lucky
You bring up a good point! I cant believe someone wouldhammer them back in and at BMW?? he's not a professional that's for sure butthat's just my opinion. How did you remove them? I bolted up a tool to the huband pressed mine out and they were very tight (attached photo). That got me thinking well howdoes BMW install them and like you said there is a tool for doing just that, itpulls the shaft back in place without damage. After doing some research I foundthat can buy a non-OEM tool from Bavauto for $70 but they are currently out ofstock. I'm not in a rush so its not a big deal, others sell a similar tool butthe price is between $300 and $400.
20181203_195536.jpg
Here's an article about installing the rear axles on BMWs and Porsches: http://www.rtsauto.com/re-installing...w-porsche-etc/
I think the only "proper way" is to use the tool. However, I tapped around the perimeter of the CV housing on mine to get it just far enough in so that a new axle nut put on backwards could grab some thread. Then I used some big vice grips to turn the nut. I was able to draw the axle into the hub the rest of the way using this technique.
This is the mandrel used to pull them in...
... and in use
While we're on the subject, this is a 4:1 torque multiplier; I only have to pull 75Nm to achieve 300Nm at the nut/axle joint.
I need one of those!
I could've definitely used one a few years ago. I was reinstalling the massive front axles on my old S8 and the manual called for 250 ft-lb + half turn IIRC. I got the 250 part done, but the half turn was more about an 1/8. My 30" breaker bar felt like it was about to snap, so I put some paint marks on the hub and bolt and called it good. Checked a month later, nothing had budged. After two years, I quit worrying.
Did a pitman arm on an F250 not too long ago...nut torque required was something stupid like 350ft-lb. We got creative with a breaker bar and long piece of spare roll cage tube.
Nathan in Denver
1999 M Roadster, VFE V3 S/C, Randy Forbes Reinforced, Hardtop, H&R/Bilstein, Apex PS-7, Supersprint
1999 Z3 2.8 Coupe, Headers, 3.46, Manual Swap, H&R/Koni, M Geometry/Brakes, M54B30 Manifold, Style 42
Bookmarks