Yes, I can get you the #s off the tools (I got them from the TIS) but you're going to need a good counter-person to convert them to "modern" numbers.
Yes, they ARE BEEFY!
Thanks I appreciate it. I have a very good connection to convert the numbers.
Wonder how one of those would do on an M62 jesus bolt... may have to pick me one up!
Pretty good I bet.
I've had one for years and its had a hard life working on semis !!!
20181204_081524.jpg
Last edited by Z3 M Roadster; 12-06-2018 at 08:51 PM.
The hub adapter/bridge piece is: 33 2 110/116
The pusher-outer is: 33 2 110/117
The puller-inner is: 33 2 110/118 (for ///M axles, Z3s use a couple of different ones, depending)
The puller-nut w/thrust bearing is: 33 1 360/363
Note that the numbers have "groups" (110 or 363, for example). It's possible to buy the "set" comprising of several components, or purchase the pieces separately (110/116, 110/117, 110/118, etc.).
These four (4) pieces are just some of the group of tools purchased to do the rear wheel bearings on our cars, there are numerous additional pieces to do the bearing job from start to finish; the four (4) numbers above are strictly to push out the axle(s) and to draw it/them back in.
ALL these tools are listed in the TIS for the relevant jobs, I figured that if I was going to work on these cars, I was going to do it right!
So my source checked into the tools, the original part numbers are NLA and have superseded to newer numbers that are also NLA. What BMW has now is a $7000.00 hydraulic tool!!
That gave me an idea why not my own hydraulic tool, I have several port-o-powers. Maybe this weekend I'll have some time to design a tool to hold the port-o-power and a piece to attach to the axle.
Last edited by Z3 M Roadster; 12-07-2018 at 03:33 PM.
I get jealous of Randy's tools, but then again I'm not a pro and only work on my own cars.
My "force multiplier" is a part from an old treadmill that fits nicely over a 1/2" socket wrench.
IMG_20150730_204342.jpg
Last edited by pine1000; 12-07-2018 at 04:24 PM.
I recently traded an E39 540i M-Sport for an E60 M5 needing engine work... guy said it needed a high pressure oil pump. We couldn't get it to even start (guy said it ran, just poorly). Wouldn't turn over by hand either. Some further investigating and I saw the throttle body gasket for cyl 6 was not seated properly. After getting the plenums off we also saw metal shards under the throttle plate on cyl 6...
Borescope down cyl 7 just to give you a good baseline. 125K of hard fought miles as the car had an 8,400 redline thanks to a Dinan tune
Very healthy... Now lets look in cylinder 6...
Notably less happy
Suspect that the improperly seated gasket on that cyl allowed it to run lean, causing it to detonate near 8,400 rpm, ejecting the piston straight down into the crankcase... not uncommon for these to shoot pistons out the side of the block either. This one was just kind of cool because the crank basically swallowed it... will be a cool piece of shop furniture for sure!
Last edited by BimmerBreaker; 12-08-2018 at 11:48 AM.
Oh, you wanted a piston with that. That's an optional extra.
George Roffe
98 M Roadster
01 325iT
You're sceering me; Dinan tune on Sue's new (well, 2016 CPO w/16k miles) X5M.
Dinan's website says their intake, exhaust and piggyback are good for 702 hp (716 if it's Stg-2). From the pt#, I can't tell if it's Stg 1 or 2, but does it even matter?
IMG_7498.jpg
And Pine, you've just got to do what you have to do!
Incidentally, there's going to be a whole lot less of working on other people's car__at least that was the plan before Sue decided she needed a new X5M! And yes, she saw the listing, and wanted it all on her own without any coaxing from me (although, she KNOWS I harbor deep-rooted feelings for anything ///M).
The S63 in that X5M is a totally different motor than the V10 S85
Ours was also abused pretty hard by the previous owner as well lol
Going into my TENTH YEAR of providing high quality reproduction BMW fabrics!
PRICE CUT on ALL FABRICS
Offering the best prices on the best quality reproduction fabrics!
I had some time this past weekend to work on the roady. Did some reinforcement on the RTA's but sill have to add the pieces for the sway bar end links before they go to powder coat. Also the new bushings arrived, this time I went with AKG and a higher durometer. I'm not concerned about any added harshness or noise. Last time this was all apart I used powerflex purple bushings front to back and they were great, absolutely no squeaking! and no complaints.
20190106_142033.jpg20190106_142114.jpg20190107_185009.jpg
- - - Updated - - -
- - - Updated - - -
- - - Updated - - -
I ran the purple powerflex on the RTABs and they got to where it was constantly squeaking as soon as 3 weeks after regreasing. Ended up going with some pretty expensive spherical RTABs that don't squeak and work/look amazing, especially with the adjustable caster-camber kit. Now I just have the purple powerflex on the sway bar bushings, and green bimmerworld subframe bushings. When I reinforced the rear end and used the M3 diff cover I just used a fresh set of rubber diff cover bushings this time around instead of the solid green poly that kept compressing and getting loose. The high durometer RTABs you have may not squeak like the softer powerflex, but I suspect they would bind if you are running a caster-camber kit. Since you seem to have pretty solid funding, I would encourage you to look into the spherical RTABs I mentioned, as they don't bind or squeak.
https://stim.tech/reinventing-e30-rtabs/
https://stim.tech/product-overview-e...-rtab-inserts/
https://stim.tech/product/e30-rear-t...l-bearing-set/
I'm not affiliated with them, I just happened to be the first US customer last year, and have been very happy with the quality of the product. I think they are working on a pushrod suspension setup for the E30 now as well.
Buddy's X5M (also a 2016) grenaded its motor @ under 10k miles. Dealer was cryptic, but something about a failed oil pump or blockage or something like that.
Warranty covered the motor ($35k!) and it was in the shop for about 6 months. He just traded it in for an SQ5.
Nathan in Denver
1999 M Roadster, VFE V3 S/C, Randy Forbes Reinforced, Hardtop, H&R/Bilstein, Apex PS-7, Supersprint
1999 Z3 2.8 Coupe, Headers, 3.46, Manual Swap, H&R/Koni, M Geometry/Brakes, M54B30 Manifold, Style 42
What I found works best with poly bushings is anti-seize, others have found marine grease works well. I never use the grease that comes with the bushings I find it just doesn't work very well.
Thanks for the links, those bearings look interesting. I'll give them a call.
Well its was a warmer sunny day so I was able to do some fitting of the calipers + trim the rear backing plates. I was surprised the rears don't need much trimmed off for the calipers to clear and the fronts require no trimming!
20190209_145655.jpg20190218_143506.jpg20190218_143527.jpg20190217_141558.jpg20190217_142349.jpg
Well, no one can accuse you of half-assing it, that's for sure.
Could serve a meal on the dinner plates of front rotors you got there. At least you're adding the stopping power with all the going power.
- 1of1 rebuild (build thread) -
- Wanted Car items - FS: PnP aftermarket alarm details -
- Coupe Custom Subwoofer box - FS: Z3 Coupe LED 3rd brake lights -My Website for DIY content and parts: Double Bee Garage
Thanks!
I was thinking about what you said Robb...
20190224_140814.jpg
Great color choice and yes we are!!!
Last edited by Z3 M Roadster; 02-24-2019 at 05:24 PM.
The new front backing plates arrived Friday, now all 4 are new.
20190223_140543.jpg
I ripped out a bunch of wiring and did a proper stereo install after a PO hack job. I also did some routine maintenance and cleaned the ICV. I was feeling pretty accomplished until I found this thread.....
Zed's dead baby. Zed's dead.
The half shafts are back together and I agree with Randy Forbes its one of the dirtiest jobs! I hope they last another 20 years!!!
20190303_151734.jpg20190303_151749.jpg20190303_150257.jpg
Bookmarks