Ping Tick Engine Noise around 2k-3k RPM

[Sleepyhead97]

this could also help https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UqLX...ature=youtu.be

I like scotty. This noise happens at specific rpms though

[Sleepyhead97]

Just ordered 12 new lifters and gaskets, assembly lube etc. Next weekend ill be pulling a junkyard m54b30 intake cam lifters and tray to install in my m50tu

[Sleepyhead97]

Been in an ice storm. No parts yet. Still waiting

[Sleepyhead97]

So 50% chance of rain tomorrow. Would pulling the cam or head be easier? Saw zaw the timing chains and bounce? Lol

Whats easiest fastest way to get what i need out of the jy fast?

[Sleepyhead97]

Alright... No joy on cams but i need some fresh opinions please. I dont expect anyone to reread the thread but basically the symptoms are a high pitched pinging or tick during load around 2200 rpms. Going up hill, heard it a few times down hill. Heard it when trans shifted to next gear and engine rpms went down.

Only seems to happen on a 100% warm engine and generally always uphill..

What could it be?

Vanos?
Lifters?
Chain?
Rod bearing?
Valve?


I rebuilt vanos years ago. Im not disqualifying this but not sure.

Engine also has a diesel-ish sound to it fully warmed up, could this be related?

I have not yet installed new lifters ,12 ina,
Just ordered 8 altrom lifters for $100. Should be rebranded ina.

Planning on keeping 4 old lifters from most perfect lobes. And ill clean them.

[circuit.heart]

Generally if it only happens at a certain rpm, I am not looking at the engine. Engine stuff is small and light, doesn't really resonate at such low speeds. Valvetrain doesn't change sounds with load, only oil and speed; if you'd been doing this with a rod bearing for three years, the engine should've imploded already. But what *can* resonate and tick/ping/hit stuff would be heat shields and exhaust components.

Heck, it could even be the motor mounts tore, allowing the fan to nick the shroud under load when you're asking it for torque or when load shifts (like the transmission shifting).

[Sleepyhead97]

Generally if it only happens at a certain rpm, I am not looking at the engine. Engine stuff is small and light, doesn't really resonate at such low speeds. Valvetrain doesn't change sounds with load, only oil and speed; if you'd been doing this with a rod bearing for three years, the engine should've imploded already. But what *can* resonate and tick/ping/hit stuff would be heat shields and exhaust components.

Heck, it could even be the motor mounts tore, allowing the fan to nick the shroud under load when you're asking it for torque or when load shifts (like the transmission shifting).

Good points but my theory less oil pressure when warm hence the tick only around 2200 rpm and only warm.

[circuit.heart]

Good points but my theory less oil pressure when warm hence the tick only around 2200 rpm and only warm.

Oil pressure doesn't work like that, if it were from low pressure you'd hear tick at idle, when it's lowest.

You can certainly try it for cheap, just throw 10W-50 in there and run your test again.

[Sleepyhead97]

Oil pressure doesn't work like that, if it were from low pressure you'd hear tick at idle, when it's lowest.

You can certainly try it for cheap, just throw 10W-50 in there and run your test again.

Ahh, but idle sounds different when warm. Sounds like a diesel and i can hear a tick at idle

[fo3]

Ticking is usually injectors, I can hardly hear anything above them on my m50NV. But you say sounds like a diesel which is more of a knock sound in my definitions anyway of diesel sound. I've got that same noise and worried about rod knock or piston slap

I might have replied before but I get a noise in similar loads/decel -only when engine hot and I thought it was the chain/guides. Though worried I thought I could hear it further back in the engine - piston slap maybe?

It's so dependent on heat that when it didn't have a t/stat and the thermofan ran more/lower temp setting and in winter (so gauge never got above around 1/4 mark) - the noise didn't even occur! Now the t/stat is in, fan set to not come on until 1/2 gauge and the weather is warmer I get this noise.

It's got 320k kms on it so it's due for at least chain guides, if not chain. But I thinkit needs a rebuild - I've been putting it off until I can get a m54b30, and have somewhere else to live and work on it.

[Sleepyhead97]

Ticking is usually injectors, I can hardly hear anything above them on my m50NV. But you say sounds like a diesel which is more of a knock sound in my definitions anyway of diesel sound. I've got that same noise and worried about rod knock or piston slap

I might have replied before but I get a noise in similar loads/decel -only when engine hot and I thought it was the chain/guides. Though worried I thought I could hear it further back in the engine - piston slap maybe?

It's so dependent on heat that when it didn't have a t/stat and the thermofan ran more/lower temp setting and in winter (so gauge never got above around 1/4 mark) - the noise didn't even occur! Now the t/stat is in, fan set to not come on until 1/2 gauge and the weather is warmer I get this noise.

It's got 320k kms on it so it's due for at least chain guides, if not chain. But I thinkit needs a rebuild - I've been putting it off until I can get a m54b30, and have somewhere else to live and work on it.

Mmm m54b30 sounds good. When i pit stethoscope to my 6th exhaust port its louder than the others. Im going to dive in soon for lifter replacement. Ill let you all know

Chain does have me worried but if i have to do a hg then ill be looking for another engine

[Sleepyhead97]

Very temp dependent

[Sleepyhead97]

Ticking is usually injectors, I can hardly hear anything above them on my m50NV. But you say sounds like a diesel which is more of a knock sound in my definitions anyway of diesel sound. I've got that same noise and worried about rod knock or piston slap

I might have replied before but I get a noise in similar loads/decel -only when engine hot and I thought it was the chain/guides. Though worried I thought I could hear it further back in the engine - piston slap maybe?

It's so dependent on heat that when it didn't have a t/stat and the thermofan ran more/lower temp setting and in winter (so gauge never got above around 1/4 mark) - the noise didn't even occur! Now the t/stat is in, fan set to not come on until 1/2 gauge and the weather is warmer I get this noise.

It's got 320k kms on it so it's due for at least chain guides, if not chain. But I thinkit needs a rebuild - I've been putting it off until I can get a m54b30, and have somewhere else to live and work on it.

What causes rattle sound at 2100-2300 rpm ? I can rev in and out of that range and i can hear a RATTLE! Vanos? Chain?

What if i have two issues.. Lifters and something else?

[fo3]

I don't have vanos, and I've had it whenever the engine is at full temp too. At first I thought it was the chain (or guides). But when under the car it sounded more like from #4 piston, and sounded more like a diesel/knock), so either bearings or piston slap (best case scenario).
It doesn't do it when cold, so probably not rod knock. It does it on de-accel worse than accel at ~2000rpm. Pulling coils from plugs didn't change the noise either.

[Sleepyhead97]

I don't have vanos, and I've had it whenever the engine is at full temp too. At first I thought it was the chain (or guides). But when under the car it sounded more like from #4 piston, and sounded more like a diesel/knock), so either bearings or piston slap (best case scenario).
It doesn't do it when cold, so probably not rod knock. It does it on de-accel worse than accel at ~2000rpm. Pulling coils from plugs didn't change the noise either.

I think you are right. Im suspecting piston slap. Maybe i can bore scope to confirm.

[Sleepyhead97]

So why is it that most people with piston slap have sound when cold but goes away when warm. However my car only starts exhibiting symptoms when warm. If piston slap os caused by cylinder to piston clearance, shouldnt clearance decrease as the metal expands? Thanks

[Sleepyhead97]

Ive been so busy lately and unemployed so ... Havent changed lifters or messed with it too much but i got a vanos code p1266 yesterday. Has to be solenoid right? Swaped it with one from a 98 with shorter pigtail. Had to cut my vanos solenoid pigtail and solder it on the one i got from jy.

SO..... After testing and comparing my 1995 525i voltage is coming from the pigtail, I got basically 12 volts from each side of the pigtail. On my 1997 528i, I got 12 volts on one side and around 4 volts on the other side. Is it the case that my 1995 BMW might have something wrong with the DME sending 12 volts each side?

20210414_102748.jpg

[fo3]

So why is it that most people with piston slap have sound when cold but goes away when warm. However my car only starts exhibiting symptoms when warm. If piston slap os caused by cylinder to piston clearance, shouldnt clearance decrease as the metal expands? Thanks

I can't answer that as I'm lost too, I haven't even driven my car for 7 months since I took it off the road for an interior refresh, then dramas and health stopped me working on it so it's sat...
All I know is: I was told rod knock more likely if it did it when cold. If it only does it when hot how can it be rod knock? Bad rod bearing will knock all the time!

Piston slap can be more pronounced only when hot as the piston expands out, and as the oil gets thinner there's less cushion. Slap going away when it's warmed up makes little sense to me, if you get slap in a cold engine surely it's only going to get worse as the piston expand out as it heat up? Plus slap is more a rattly noise on the modern diesel engine scale of noise, rather than the knock of say a 2 stroke 60s diesel.


And I don't have vanos either. But to be fully satisfied in an answer the only solution is rebuild. Good idea to do it ASAP when you can afford it if you want to save the block from over boring anyway. Yeah, i can;t afford it either so I'm satisfied with the piston slap diagnosis

[Sleepyhead97]

I can't answer that as I'm lost too, I haven't even driven my car for 7 months since I took it off the road for an interior refresh, then dramas and health stopped me working on it so it's sat...
All I know is: I was told rod knock more likely if it did it when cold. If it only does it when hot how can it be rod knock? Bad rod bearing will knock all the time!

Piston slap can be more pronounced only when hot as the piston expands out, and as the oil gets thinner there's less cushion. Slap going away when it's warmed up makes little sense to me, if you get slap in a cold engine surely it's only going to get worse as the piston expand out as it heat up? Plus slap is more a rattly noise on the modern diesel engine scale of noise, rather than the knock of say a 2 stroke 60s diesel.


And I don't have vanos either. But to be fully satisfied in an answer the only solution is rebuild. Good idea to do it ASAP when you can afford it if you want to save the block from over boring anyway. Yeah, i can;t afford it either so I'm satisfied with the piston slap diagnosis

Ya ill figure this out one way or the other haha

I figured out the 1266 code, short in the solenoid connector

[Sleepyhead97]

I wanted to update everyone on the car. After replacing the Vanos Solenoid the pinging tick is nonexistent. There is a slight muted rattle at the same speeds but it is nowhere near the frequency or volume that it was. It's also a different sound, more like a rattle like a chain, but it is very subtle.

This is tentative oh, I was hesitant to come back and report this change because temperatures have not hit the 90s yet, they will with a Vengeance I'm sure. If the sound is not present at the higher temperatures, I believe we can call this one resolved. I believe the source of it was the Vanos, which possibly was not getting activated ?fully?.

[Sleepyhead97]

Ugh.... Back again.

What do we think of vanos replacement. Ive rebuilt mine when I got the car, but maybe this vanos is just wore out? I can get a rebuilt vanos for 190.

Im hesitant to take my car to a shop around here for a real diagnosis but maybe i should just chance it

[Sleepyhead97]

Okay.. Just ordered the vanos

[moroza]

I've little experience with VANOS, but what I have seen suggests they can certainly wear out to the point that new seals won't help. A new one seems sensible enough at this point.

[Sleepyhead97]

I've little experience with VANOS, but what I have seen suggests they can certainly wear out to the point that new seals won't help. A new one seems sensible enough at this point.

Moroza. What do you think about the lifters? Should i replace since im that close or "if it aint broke dont fix it"? I have 18 lifters on hand

I do not have the cam removal tool... So its either risk it or get one or skip replacement

[moroza]

I'd leave the lifters alone. Their noise follows a different pattern than what you describe.

Try a different oil. While Castrol is "OE-esque", I've had lifter issues with their Edge full-synth.