1998 328i Manual - Shifter is difficult to get into reverse

**Aeko** · 12-22-2017, 01:56 AM

The car will shift into reverse but it takes both hands to get it to do so. The general shifting feel isn't that great overall and it's also somewhat hard to get it into 5th. 232k miles so it's understandably sloppy feeling. Ideas?

Solution for my particular issue (do yourself a favor and read the whole thread for details):

Shift pins and detents for 5th and reverse needed to be replaced, as well as the "shift detent" which helps keep the lever in gear.

Tips to anyone else who comes across this:

1. Get a transmission jack, especially if you're working by yourself like I did. The $99 one from harbor freight is actually pretty good.
2. When pulling the pilot bearing or bearing sleeves for the detents, use a blind hole puller. They don't rent them any more at most shops. Sears has one online for $30. http://www.sears.com/goplus-5pcs-inn...2&blockType=G2
3. If that doesn't work get a tap set, stuff the hole in the transmission with a shop towel so metal doesn't fall in, and very carefully tap threads into the bearing sleeve. This was the easiest way I found to pull them. Trying to use something to bend the bearing sleeves pretty much always guaranteed the bore was scored up afterwards.
4. Use a sharp punch in the very middle of the freeze plugs and be careful how big of a hole you make when pulling the 3 shift pins on the top. I was a little off center and chipped off part of the bore in the transmission.
5. Worst case scenario when not able to pull the pilot bearing, try breaking it apart and then using the blind hole puller to remove the outer race. I tried using the 'bread method' but this blew the side covers of the bearing off and kept pressing bread through the sphere bearings. I used a dremel with a carbide bit to cut a slot into the inner race and a drill to break apart the seperator so I could remove the sphere bearings enough to pull everything except the outer race. The larger sizes for the blind hole pullers tend to work better than the smaller ones it seems.

**MarcoZandrini** · 12-22-2017, 08:32 AM

The shifter likely needs to be rebuilt. There are some plastic parts in the shifter system and they wear out. Also, the tranny has a detent spring that prevents the driver from inadvertently putting the tranny in reverse. There’s one for 5th gear, too. The detent is basically a spring loaded shaft. The shaft can become worn.

When was the last time the tranny fluid was changed? That may help if the problem is the detent. I recommend Redline tranny fluid.

- - - Updated - - -

The shifter likely needs to be rebuilt. There are some plastic parts in the shifter system and they wear out. Also, the tranny has a detent spring that prevents the driver from inadvertently putting the tranny in reverse. There’s one for 5th gear, too. The detent is basically a spring loaded shaft. The shaft can become worn.

When was the last time the tranny fluid was changed? That may help if the problem is the detent. I recommend Redline D4ATF tranny fluid.

**Aeko** · 12-22-2017, 01:47 PM

I had been told about the detent spring, but the amount of pressure it takes is just ridiculous.

AFAIK the fluid has not been changed, so that is on my upcoming "weekend projects" list. I still need to get extra jack stands to keep the car level. I'll add a shifter rebuild to my bill whenever I take it to get the clutch and flywheel replaced.

**bmwdirtracer** · 12-22-2017, 07:28 PM

"Ridiculous pressure" is not good. Is the shifter hitting the edge of the leather/plastic rectangle it lives in? If so, you need to do that shifter bushing replacement a.s.a.p.

This is not a detent spring issue. When those wear out, the shifter just doesn't return to a central position, it flops around sideways from the reverse gate to the 5th gear gate.

The parts for the shifter fix will cost less than $50:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=25_0577

parts 12, 2, and 7.

Yeah, it's a bit of a P.I.T.A. to get there.

**Aeko** · 12-22-2017, 09:23 PM

Originally Posted by bmwdirtracer

"Ridiculous pressure" is not good. Is the shifter hitting the edge of the leather/plastic rectangle it lives in? If so, you need to do that shifter bushing replacement a.s.a.p.

This is not a detent spring issue. When those wear out, the shifter just doesn't return to a central position, it flops around sideways from the reverse gate to the 5th gear gate.

The parts for the shifter fix will cost less than $50:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=25_0577

parts 12, 2, and 7.

Yeah, it's a bit of a P.I.T.A. to get there.

I don't think it is hitting, it's just a tough mother to get into the reverse gate moving right to left. Once it's over it goes forward no problem. Thanks as always, Chris!

**328 Power 04** · 12-22-2017, 10:13 PM

Rebuild shifter linkages first.

If still no improvement, then look into replacing the shift detents in your ZF transmission. http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=398477

- - - Updated - - -

Or http://www.eatsleeptinker.com/2013/1...on-shift-pins/

**Aeko** · 12-22-2017, 10:40 PM

Gracias!

**bmwdirtracer** · 12-23-2017, 09:04 AM

Yeah, thinking about it, I suppose the pistons / sleeves could be sticking badly, making it difficult to shift into those gears. I haven't ever seen that, just the symptom where the shifter flops merrily from the reverse to the 5th gear gates. I'd think that if indeed the piston and sleeve were seizing,the spring wouldn't return things to center, and after slamming it into the gear the first time, you'd not have that problem again, just the flopping issue. (But there a lot of things I've never seen....)

Certainly, the shifter "rebuild" is a much easier job than pulling the gearbox and doing the sleeves.

**Aeko** · 02-02-2018, 05:43 PM

Originally Posted by bmwdirtracer

Yeah, thinking about it, I suppose the pistons / sleeves could be sticking badly, making it difficult to shift into those gears. I haven't ever seen that, just the symptom where the shifter flops merrily from the reverse to the 5th gear gates. I'd think that if indeed the piston and sleeve were seizing,the spring wouldn't return things to center, and after slamming it into the gear the first time, you'd not have that problem again, just the flopping issue. (But there a lot of things I've never seen....)

Certainly, the shifter "rebuild" is a much easier job than pulling the gearbox and doing the sleeves.

I finally have had enough time off work to get under the car and start taking a look at the shifter linkage. Looks like what's left of the trans tunnel liner is collapsing on the shift linkage and polishing the drive shaft. It could be the cause of my issues. I noticed the bushings are definitely in need of replacement though.

2018-02-01 01.52.08.jpg

Another thing, are these transmissions usually extremely loud outside of the car? With the car off and parked in the garage I can hear every little movement that the transmission is making, clacking in and out of gear as I shift. It sounds like the trans and not the linkage. I want to check the fluid levels but I need to know what the correct fluid is for labels with MTF-LT-1, orange label. I've seen a lot of discussions on ATF labels using Dex III, but this car is a little odd. Other "discussions" (before they break down into a brand pissing contest) I've seen a mix of gear oil and trans fluid. Last production month of the e36 328i's.

**bmwdirtracer** · 02-02-2018, 08:46 PM

I've never met an E36 that didn't have the orange crumbling tunnel insulation falling in my face.....until I'd cut it away and discarded it, anyway.

Personally, I'd cut away that crap so you can see, replace the three linkage items mentioned earlier, and fill the trans with MTL, not a slippery diff lube. (RedLine MTL seems to be pretty much universally accepted)

**Aeko** · 02-02-2018, 08:52 PM

Yep, already working on cutting it out since I can't work on it without chunks of mud falling in my face. I have those parts on order!

**Aeko** · 02-05-2018, 09:55 PM

Does the shifter arm look like it needs to be replaced? The ball joint is really pitted all over.

photo_2018-02-05_20-50-52.jpg

**ross1** · 02-06-2018, 10:16 AM

It looks pretty rugged but could look worse than it is.
Clean it up and smooth it out as best as you can and try it out in the (new) bushing installed on the shift arm carrier before assembling on the car. If it feels smooth and tight you'll be okay.

**shadowpuck** · 02-06-2018, 10:24 AM

i agree - kinda hard to tell from the pic, but it should be fine.

**bmwdirtracer** · 02-06-2018, 09:35 PM

I wouldn't worry about it.

**Aeko** · 02-18-2018, 12:00 AM

Alright, I replaced all the bushings and the gearshift rod joint as you suggested. Reverse is still difficult to shift in to, and additionally the shifter now sits cranked all the way to the right, in front of the gate for 5th. It could be my imagination but the shifts also seem a bit shorter now... Hopefully I just put in something backwards? I removed the rubber boot temporarily to make sure it wasn't the boot causing the problem.

However, shifting seems less sloppy now. I can now tell that before I was accidentally shifting from second to fifth. Is fifth supposed to have a push lockout? It felt like it did before but now it does not. Third is difficult to find, however that may be driver error.

Pic shown when I had a clip removed, it was on when I tested shifting.
2018-02-17 22.30.08.jpg

-update-

Just did a quick search after remembering something I read before... could I have 5th gear lean? If so, would updating the bushings cause me to have it or just to notice it more?

**Aeko** · 02-18-2018, 04:43 PM

bump

**bmwdirtracer** · 02-18-2018, 07:11 PM

Are you sure that the gold- colored selector rod is in the same position as when you began? Some come in from the right, some from the left. Also, which end is forward is equally crucial. I mark it before removal.

If you now don't have a detent spring for 5th or reverse/1st, you're going to need to do that job.

**Aeko** · 02-18-2018, 07:38 PM

Originally Posted by bmwdirtracer

Are you sure that the gold- colored selector rod is in the same position as when you began? Some come in from the right, some from the left. Also, which end is forward is equally crucial. I mark it before removal.

If you now don't have a detent spring for 5th or reverse/1st, you're going to need to do that job.

It's on the driver's side which I confirmed from the original photos I took should be correct (the Real OEM diagrams also show it this way). The only thing I'm not sure of is if the bend should be closer to the top of the transmission tunnel or not. My guess is it should be, otherwise it would have trouble clearing the guibo which is why I think it has a bend in the first place. I did try flipping it to see if it had any affect on shifting and it did not.

Well shit, I was hoping to wait a while before pulling the transmission LOL. I guess I'm gonna have fun doing that in my garage. Luckily the guide 328 Power linked looks very well done. I'm looking forward to the challenge, but my wallet just has to catch up. I decided a while back when I needed to pull it I was going to replace everything I could afford like the rear main seals, throw out bearing, etc etc.

**brokeazz** · 02-18-2018, 08:12 PM

Is your shifter facing the wrong way? From the pics it looks like it might be backwards

**Aeko** · 02-18-2018, 09:51 PM

Originally Posted by brokeazz

Is your shifter facing the wrong way? From the pics it looks like it might be backwards

I don't think so, I double checked that as well. When I turned it the wrong direction to test it was impossible to shift at all since the shifter was leaning all the way forward and touching the plastic console area. I may have taken that picture while I had it in backwards to test that, but I don't recall. And if I'm not mistaken the shift bushing carrier is in the correct way as well, because if it was upside down you could put the bushing in from under the car.

**Aeko** · 03-18-2018, 05:13 PM

Quick update. I finished replacing the shift pins, but I'm waiting on a blind hole puller to arrive for the "detent" pin bearings next to 5th and reverse.

The clutch and pressure plate are in good condition but I'm not sure about the flywheel. Still stock DMF. Does anyone know what the spec for the play is for the stock flywheel? Currently seems like it's about 3.5 teeth or about 11 degrees before spring engagement. I haven't had any luck finding that info for the OE flywheel.

**shadowpuck** · 03-18-2018, 05:18 PM

found this info with a quick google search - basically one of the first records listed in the search. plenty more info at other sources too.

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...play-toleraces

**Aeko** · 03-18-2018, 05:59 PM

Somehow I saw that thread and missed the last post. D'oh. Thanks. I'll probably be going the single mass conversion route then.

**Aeko** · 04-13-2018, 03:42 AM

Alright guys, please help me figure out what I'm doing wrong here. I'm trying to put the transmission back in and I can't get it to sit flush against the back of the engine. I tried taking it out and putting it back in once already. There's still about 1/4" of space. While the transmission was out to do the shift pins, I took the clutch and flywheel off to do the rear main seal and pilot bearing. I checked and the pilot bearing size is correct. I aligned the clutch using the Luk tool (Luk flywheel and clutch), put some anti-seize on the transmission input shaft and a bit on the splines, tried rotating the transmission output with it in gear and I can tell the splines are definitely in the clutch. The clutch should be the correct way in, according to pics of when I took it out. Oddly there's no markings on the center of the clutch disc to verify that. After getting the transmission most of the way on I let it hang and tried wiggling the hell of out of it but it just doesn't want to seem to go on.

I was able to line up and get several of the E14 bolts in but I can't get it to tighten together. I'm not putting much torque on it, just trying to see if maybe the input shaft is having a hard time going over the splines? I was also able to line up and get one of the starter bolts in.

I tried what was suggested in this thread. https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...n-install-help! The only thing I was unable to do was jack up the front of the engine. Due to the tight space in my garage I may have to see if I can use a bottle jack, since my floor jack can't fit in front of the car.