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Thread: silver bullet

  1. #26
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
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    MA
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    1994 325is
    Quote Originally Posted by e30 394 View Post
    Nothing huge, but i got ahold of some Ichiba 15mm adapters to test fit.

    1. they don't fit, well they do but the tolerances on the hub are so damn tight you cant have ANY corrosion on them

    2. they don't fit, you need to trim the bolt or else it hits your parking break internals.

    Any way, I think its gonna work out well. I'm getting some smaller tires this week if it warms up, going with 225/40/18 on a 10.5 You can see the fender is resting on the tire in the pictures. I'm going to trim the fender, space it out a bit and add .5-1* of camber to make it nice and tight. My goal is to be able to swap between these and my 17's without any adjustments.

    FYI: 18x10.5 +12 (-3 after adapter)
    Attachment 620399Attachment 620401
    I love how that fits man, that was the look I was going for on my car before I changed my mind. What is your camber set at now?

  2. #27
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    Thanks man

    I want to say around 1.5* not too sure, Really have not found an alignment shop near me that does low cars, and I've been changing to many parts to warrant an alignment (it'd be screwed in a few days lol) so far tire wear had been even so that's really my indicator lol


    IG: dimitriantoniou

  3. #28
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    San Antonio
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    My Cars
    98 328is
    Quote Originally Posted by e30 394 View Post
    Thanks man

    I want to say around 1.5* not too sure, Really have not found an alignment shop near me that does low cars, and I've been changing to many parts to warrant an alignment (it'd be screwed in a few days lol) so far tire wear had been even so that's really my indicator lol
    R&N Garage

    they do a lot of the local drift cars. a few of the techs that work there have drift cars as well.
    Last edited by RandomHero27; 01-17-2018 at 03:26 PM.

  4. #29
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    I love typing posts up and then having them delete...............

    Installed a cool little temp sensor. $8 on ebay, install was easy. Pwr Grd tapped off the plug for the OBC, I had the 11 button one so it sucked and I don't mind losing it. I had to extend the sensor wire about 2 feet but it as just 2 little wires. Its great having piece of mind. Its funny how rudimentary the factory gauge is. It points dead center from 50*c till over 100*c. I haven't had it over 107*c but my shutdown temp will be around 120* for me. I'm going to wire in a switch to override my fan as well so i can start it up on them hot texas days.

    Pro tip (kinda) I ran some CAT5 cable like internet cable through my fire wall so i have like 5 wires for gauges now. small gauge but as long as its relayed or doesn't draw a lot of power it should be fine lol.

    IMG_0214.jpg

    I also found some federals for $100 that still had the little nipples on them. they are 225/35/18 on a 10.5 I must say its a little more stretch than i anticipated lol. but they don't rub and they seem to be okay so ill try and find a 235/35/18 if that is even a real size and it should be perfect.
    IMG_0189.jpg

    Currently chasing done an issue that makes the car lose power and run funny. It feels like its pulling timming or something I'm not really sure.

    So far I've replaced Coolant temp sensor, plugs, boots, TPS, Camshaft position sensor (auto zone) cleaned the maf, sea foam, intake boot fuel filter, injector cleaner for about 3 tanks.
    I have a new o2 sensor going in but currently deleting every vacuum line and the ccv from under the intake and upgrading to an m50 manifold. Here is a picture of my plugs idk what they are saying but people said lean, so maybe Maf maybe injectors Idk.
    IMG_0230.jpg


    IG: dimitriantoniou

  5. #30
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    fairfax,va, usa
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    Quote Originally Posted by e30 394 View Post
    still had the little nipples on them.
    Def look lean. Esp #3. Usually these things are just vacuum leaks. M50s like to leak where the ICV meets the intake mani.

    Status: HG repair. 488wtq though!

  6. #31
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
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    Denver, Colorado
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    99 328i, a few more
    Quote Originally Posted by e30 394 View Post
    Nothing huge, but i got ahold of some Ichiba 15mm adapters to test fit.

    1. they don't fit, well they do but the tolerances on the hub are so damn tight you cant have ANY corrosion on them

    2. they don't fit, you need to trim the bolt or else it hits your parking break internals.

    Any way, I think its gonna work out well. I'm getting some smaller tires this week if it warms up, going with 225/40/18 on a 10.5 You can see the fender is resting on the tire in the pictures. I'm going to trim the fender, space it out a bit and add .5-1* of camber to make it nice and tight. My goal is to be able to swap between these and my 17's without any adjustments.

    FYI: 18x10.5 +12 (-3 after adapter)
    Attachment 620399Attachment 620401
    Crap. I just ordered the ichiba adapters to try to fit some 265s on 18x11s

  7. #32
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    you'll need to trim the bolts if using them in the rear and you'll have to clean the corrosion off the hub but they work.


    IG: dimitriantoniou

  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by protomor View Post
    Def look lean. Esp #3. Usually these things are just vacuum leaks. M50s like to leak where the ICV meets the intake mani.
    I swapped in m50 mani over, RTV'd all the connections, deleted oil separator and replaced the vac lines. There is what looks like a sensor with a plug and vac line that goes to the SAP system do i need that? I just need to get my hands on another throttle body gasket so i can get that leak fixed and then I Should be golden.


    IG: dimitriantoniou

  9. #34
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
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    San Antonio
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    98 328is
    Quote Originally Posted by e30 394 View Post
    I swapped in m50 mani over, RTV'd all the connections, deleted oil separator and replaced the vac lines. There is what looks like a sensor with a plug and vac line that goes to the SAP system do i need that? I just need to get my hands on another throttle body gasket so i can get that leak fixed and then I Should be golden.
    is the hose black and white? if it is, ditch it. i cant remember what its for exactly but its for the SAP.

  10. #35
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    Man it's been so long since I did anything with an M50 based motor. Esp late models. I have no idea.

    Status: HG repair. 488wtq though!

  11. #36
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    So, good news. I got the m50 manifold swap, and ccv delete all wrapped up. Fixed my lean condition. but still was down on power and misfiring. I found some new coil packs cheap locally and tossed them in and it helped tremendously! Id say running 90%. I'm going to let it keep adapting to the manifold and then probably get a tune eventually.

    I pointed my valve cover vent at the hood and ran the hell out of it and didn't find any residue witch is nice. So I got some 3/4in house and routed it under the intake and back to the firewall just to make it look clean. Up next is upgrading my 3clutch to a 4 clutch lsd. Can i just toss a new bearing on my new end cap and reinstall? No need to set any gear stuff right?

    *waits for Protomr's infinite knowledge*

    IMG_0271.jpg


    IG: dimitriantoniou

  12. #37
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    i think thats it. there was a video on VIMEO awhile back where the dude added the clutches and washers. But theres also youtube videos now too. check those out. i think you only have to check stuff when you swap ring and pinions. but, maybe im wrong.

  13. #38
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    Bet any video you find is mine lol.

    Yea it's pretty simple. You just machine off 4mm iirc (or less if you want preload), shove in a new stack of a dog ear plate and a clutch, and shove it all back together. I saw a dude do a 4 clutch with NO machining but that would be so preloaded, it might as well be a welded diff IMO. I know some guy removed the belvue (sp?) washers to get the extra clutch set. But I wouldn't do that... Just machine and go.

    Short answer, yes, shove new bearing on it and reassemble. It's really that easy.

    Status: HG repair. 488wtq though!

  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by protomor View Post
    Bet any video you find is mine lol.

    Yea it's pretty simple. You just machine off 4mm iirc (or less if you want preload), shove in a new stack of a dog ear plate and a clutch, and shove it all back together. I saw a dude do a 4 clutch with NO machining but that would be so preloaded, it might as well be a welded diff IMO. I know some guy removed the belvue (sp?) washers to get the extra clutch set. But I wouldn't do that... Just machine and go.

    Short answer, yes, shove new bearing on it and reassemble. It's really that easy.

    okay cool, a company called diffs online (out of Serbia maybe) sells a brand new end cap that is already 4mm thinner that I bought my clutches and dog ear plates from, so I picked that up ill take a pic of it. Seems really well made. My stock end cap had 2 ears broke off. It locked great as a three clutch after I put it back together missing 2 bolts so I could make an event, but it feels a little funky so I'm pulling it tonight before it really breaks something.


    IG: dimitriantoniou

  15. #40
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    Yep, they are very reputable. I just took my cap to a machine shop. They looked at me like I was nuts. First, I had to convert 4mm to metric. Then they were a little insulted that I asked something so menial of them. I had to pay the shop minimum of $65 lol.

    But yea broken ears are no good. Not like stuff will come off. I just don't like things unbalanced.

    Status: HG repair. 488wtq though!

  16. #41
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    Wait I'm a big dummy, the company is "racing diffs" check them out on FB or IG they are nice to work with but shipping to the US of A takes like 2-3 weeks.


    IG: dimitriantoniou

  17. #42
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    I mean, it's a diff cap... kinda hard to screw up lol.

    Status: HG repair. 488wtq though!

  18. #43
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    Tore into the diff last night, god I hate pulling these differentials. But I've goT bad news and worse news. So the fluid had a lot of shiny stuff in it, I'm hoping it was just from the break in process of the new clutches and plates. There wasn't a lot of metal on the speed sensor witch tends to collect metal because it is/becomes magnetized. The worse news is One of the cap bolts backed out and Fubar'd itself. no damage to the ring gear or pinion thank god but the bottom of the case is all gouged up. Took it all apart and cleaned it up inspected it and reassembled. Not sure what I was looking for, but no unusual wear or anything. Here are some photos.. New cap and bearing, rip lil bolt 1995-1999, and clutch wear after 600 mile break in.
    IMG_0307.jpgIMG_0308.jpgIMG_0311.jpg

    Ps: Going to a Club loose meet and great tonight, they are the new host of the local events in Texas. going to have them look over my car and see if I need to fix anything for tech. I wish my car was a 2.8 or 3.2


    IG: dimitriantoniou

  19. #44
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    e36 325ic
    That's kind of a bummer but it could have been worse

    Pretty pumped that CL made it out to texas, I want to make a trip, I know there's a few guys from here that are trying to line up trailers to get their cars out there for the opening but if anything it gives me an excuse for a vacation

  20. #45
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    Our location is kinda lame, just a big dirty parking lot. Ideally after some time they might repave, or expand, or find a new location. I don't want to complain. an all day event is $30 and 15 mins from home. Id like to make it to a lone star event.


    IG: dimitriantoniou

  21. #46
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    I've had fresh diffs need about 3 fluid changes before the stop giving speckles. So I wouldn't worry about that too much honestly. The real issue is scoring on the plates and just general uneven wear. I think your stuff is fine lol. Run it!

    Status: HG repair. 488wtq though!

  22. #47
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    Im hoping to be at the meet tonight. Pinched something in my back and am currently at the ER getting meds. Tech should be the same as always, but with the new group, who knows.

  23. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by protomor View Post
    I've had fresh diffs need about 3 fluid changes before the stop giving speckles. So I wouldn't worry about that too much honestly. The real issue is scoring on the plates and just general uneven wear. I think your stuff is fine lol. Run it!
    well that's reassuring. Any fluid recommendations? currently running Valvoline 75/140 lsd specific I think

    Quote Originally Posted by RandomHero27 View Post
    Im hoping to be at the meet tonight. Pinched something in my back and am currently at the ER getting meds. Tech should be the same as always, but with the new group, who knows.
    okay sweet man, hope you feel better, and maybe the rain will clear up.


    IG: dimitriantoniou

  24. #49
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    I always use redline 75w90NS. I don't know if the NS does anything. But IIRC it's for clutch diffs.

    Status: HG repair. 488wtq though!

  25. #50
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    quick question about the ichiba adapters... Were the lug bolt heads too long when you mounted your wheels? I test fitted a vssd on my car a few months ago and the adapter went on fine, then when I went to test fit the rezax the lug bolt head was too long and stuck out past the spacer and didn't allow the wheel to sit flush on the adapter. Did you run into this? The only thing I can think of is that the lug bolts I was using the second time were replacement ones I bought from ecs and when I mounted the vssd they were just oem ones that came with the car. I found some short head lug bolts that I was gonna order but I just wanted to check

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