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Thread: silver bullet

  1. #1
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    silver bullet

    Recently moved to san Antonio after graduating college. I chose to sell my black sedan and start fresh with A nice rust free Texas car and try and do things in a fashion that will build a more reliable cost effective car. Of course I find the only e36 in texas that came from the east coast lol, picked up a 1999 323is with a pretty nice Carfax history but had seen better days. For the price of $900 it was hard to say no. Car had been in a slight accident up front, ran like crap, and smelled strange. you can see the front end is a little wanky, at this point I had pulled most of the damage parts off and ordered new core support/nose panel/ bumper support

    IMG_3445.jpg

    The goal is something that's going to be easy on tires, very simple, but look great. So many dirft specific cars now-a-days look terrible, like there is no pride in the build. i hate that with a passion. look good feel good right?

    Started ordering some parts, Fortune auto 500's 10k 12k (tip: order the m3 versions and the lower mounts are smaller and allow fro not only more height adjustment but i had more clearance at the wheel for 17 inch diameter wheels) found some e46 control arms on ebay that ere used OEM with good boots. and jolpi angle adapters (later removed)

    I bought as many used parts as i could i wanted to be all said and done for less than 4K. Found a used sparco evo 3 and ordered some vac floor mounts, not sure id recommend them. I spent 2 hours to no avil trying to center the seat. But what ever, seat is in and feels great. (idk how to rotate this image i miss photo bucket)
    IMG_3488.jpg

    I decided to push my morality to the side and order some knock off felony form fenders. I just couldn't stomach the cost, and the nightmare wait and customer service stories ive heard. so for half the price and a week wait i had some fantastically made fenders. fit and finish was great, was install, and I had no remorse haphazardly cutting my car up
    IMG_0026.jpg
    IMG_0027.jpg

    Used some aluminum rivets to secure them. I left the bottom edge of the front flares loose, ive seen a lot of people crack the fronts so I figure by allowing some more movement ill save myself from having to fix them done the road. I'm going to lunch now ill finish this later today lol.

    BTW if anyone attends lone star drift let me know i need a buddy i want to start going out there.


    IG: dimitriantoniou

  2. #2
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    Do E36 guys do the subframe reinforcements? Or do all of them just pray? Like the car name btw.

    Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by protomor View Post
    Do E36 guys do the subframe reinforcements? Or do all of them just pray? Like the car name btw.
    some do. some dont. i have them, but havent done them yet. plan on doing them when i build up this M3 subframe i have. pull my old, do reinforcements, install M3.

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    I havent competed in any Lone Star events, but i drove Bash back in October. I have a truck, and if you give me notice i can see if i can get off work, if you can get a trailer i can tow you to events. i only ask for gas, and in the event of long trips, food. i do plan on driving Lone Star events soon, but currently focused on getting laps in at the various San Antonio Raceway events. Currently not driving because i burned through my stash of tires at Bash, and i want to cage my car as well as complete some projects i got going.

    - - - Updated - - -

    i need to make one of these threads. i havent posted my car in forever.

  4. #4
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    I am trying to do one lone star event a year. MikeE36 does Lone Star but not sure how much he'll be around as I think hes running Pro2.

    Lone Star is such a rad time, with so many awesome people, great driving, and a great vibe at the events. I wish I could make it to more of them but Mineral Wells is 15 hours away.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by protomor View Post
    Do E36 guys do the subframe reinforcements? Or do all of them just pray? Like the car name btw.
    ive never had any issues with all 7 of my e36s, I think the issue is tied into big slicks and track time. I really don't see a need, but I'm just some punk whos cars too low and cant seem to take a corner without a little oversteer lol

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    Quote Originally Posted by RandomHero27 View Post
    some do. some dont. i have them, but havent done them yet. plan on doing them when i build up this M3 subframe i have. pull my old, do reinforcements, install M3.

    - - - Updated - - -

    I havent competed in any Lone Star events, but i drove Bash back in October. I have a truck, and if you give me notice i can see if i can get off work, if you can get a trailer i can tow you to events. i only ask for gas, and in the event of long trips, food. i do plan on driving Lone Star events soon, but currently focused on getting laps in at the various San Antonio Raceway events. Currently not driving because i burned through my stash of tires at Bash, and i want to cage my car as well as complete some projects i got going.

    - - - Updated - - -

    i need to make one of these threads. i havent posted my car in forever.

    ill should be at every SA raceway even I'm 15 mins from the track so ill see you out there. Come LSB season we can deff pit together and share tools parts and keep my fingers crossed i never need to be on a trailer lol


    IG: dimitriantoniou

  6. #6
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    53421048526__3236E2E4-9038-4BC0-817A-7073E47AC87D.jpg

    here you can see the FA 500s i requested the shortest springs they had in stock. The fronts in the photo are fully lowered. i had to raise them about 5 inches lol. As far as the rear goes the springs were not short enough. I found a vendor that sells Hypercoil springs for $130 a set and bought some 4in 750lb springs. Now I can run my rear adjusters and have a little more even stance front to rear. I did have to trim the adjuster to increase some suspension travel. it was easy.


    I'm a huge fan of Chaz and Nerptech and I ordered some rear camber arms, did i need them? no. I wanted to increase tire life, I was sick of cording tires and having meat on the outside. Install was a breeze. Fit and finish was awesome. at $180 I think they will pay for them selves within 2-3 sets of tires.

    IMG_0124.jpg

    On to some reliability stuff, ive had weldeds and i hate them. They are cool about 1% of the time. Ive had luck with stock lsd's in the past and the drivability and axle life is invaluable. I picked up a 3.23 M3 LSD and ordered 3 new clutches and 2 dog ear plates from RACINGDIFFS on ebay. Great company, guy is from Serbia I think. install was a breeze.... except that that the LSD center section cap was cracked on two of the 6 bolts.. So I took this as an opportunity to do things right. I ordered a machined cap that allows for another clutch pack (totaling 4 and a rumored 60% lock) still waiting for that as he was back ordered, i threw the diff together and it has held up fine even with the cracked cap.

    This is the first time i took it out after everything was thrown together. Care rides great, and would be easily daily-drive-able. but i have a 318 vert to daily so I'm not tempted to be an a-hole on the streets, and its nice to give it a break and have time to tinker without needing to drive it the next day.

    IMG_0217.jpg

    In that last photo I had the stock springs from FA 5 inch maybe, in this next one i had the new hypercoil. This was after my first event last weekend. the car did awesome. The diff was not locking at first (no break in at all) after about 3 runs it kept getting better and better. by lunch time it was perfect.

    With just e46 control arms and Nerptechs rack spacers I had plenty of angle for my power level. Only real issue was it would get a little warm after every run. It was pretty cold that day so I'm going to try and go aluminum rad, and a fan before the next event it sucks having to skip a run so you can cool down.

    IMG_0284.jpg

    thoughts so far:

    kenda tires 10/10 (burners)

    federal tires 10/10 (steer)

    I still need to attach my front sway bar (maybe) the car felt great without it lol

    323is does leave a little to be desired in terms of power

    ive missed drifting


    IG: dimitriantoniou

  7. #7
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    i wish i would have known about that company. i had a 3.23 that i sold after i put in a 3.15 welded.

    as far as cooling, i run a Koyorad radiator, 16"spal puller and metal water pump and stock thermostat. ive had no issues, i even drive without the fan and the ac full blast. when drifiting i have the fan on. ive never overheated. i have blown a heater core hose after hot lapping for 10 + laps or so. at lone star i did a 2 minute long donut and my tires blew just as the temps started to creep.

    johny with Poetry in Motion is a Kenda dealer, and most of the lone star guys (if not all) run kenda.

  8. #8
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    I think I followed you on IG when you had your sedan. Didn't know you bought another E36. Can you PM me the link to those rear springs? My BC rear springs gave me the same issue

  9. #9
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    which federal tire are you using for steer? I'm thinking of going with the 235/40 rs-rr
    for cooling I had a cxracing radiator with a 16" spal back when I ran a S52. It worked TOO good. Never had an issue (didn't have heater hooked up tho)

    Really like that ass shot of the car and the height. i too am a stancy boi
    Last edited by Press22; 12-19-2017 at 05:13 PM.
    instagram @andyitslit

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by RandomHero27 View Post
    i wish i would have known about that company. i had a 3.23 that i sold after i put in a 3.15 welded.

    as far as cooling, i run a Koyorad radiator, 16"spal puller and metal water pump and stock thermostat. ive had no issues, i even drive without the fan and the ac full blast. when drifiting i have the fan on. ive never overheated. i have blown a heater core hose after hot lapping for 10 + laps or so. at lone star i did a 2 minute long donut and my tires blew just as the temps started to creep.

    johny with Poetry in Motion is a Kenda dealer, and most of the lone star guys (if not all) run kenda.
    right now I'm getting them from a local shop for like $60 a piece ill see what kinda deal he can get me. i like them so far. Well see how they handle heat at the next event.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Press22 View Post
    which federal tire are you using for steer? I'm thinking of going with the 235/40 rs-rr
    for cooling I had a cxracing radiator with a 16" spal back when I ran a S52. It worked TOO good. Never had an issue (didn't have heater hooked up tho)

    Really like that ass shot of the car and the height. i too am a stancy boi
    stancy boys unite! ive wanted to run an ebay rad for so long but I'm afraid lol. i also don't want to spend half the cost of my car on a name brand aluminum radiator. maybe ill give them a go worst case ill open a paypal dispute if its junk.

    I'm just running regular federal ss595 i had absolutely not a hint of understeer, maybe because i didn't have my front sway bar attached.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by fsteve View Post
    I think I followed you on IG when you had your sedan. Didn't know you bought another E36. Can you PM me the link to those rear springs? My BC rear springs gave me the same issue
    yea man ive had like 6-7 i think i cant stop lmao.. i PM'd you


    IG: dimitriantoniou

  11. #11
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    Looking good man! Do you have a link with the overs you bought? I'm basically in the same boat as you, I want the FF for the quality but if you found something cheaper that fits well/you recommend I would most definitely consider it.

    My evo 3 hits the door a little and the bolster touches the trans tunnel too with my vac mounts also, the mount didn't work completely when I got it, and I expected a little more in regards to fitment for such an expensive seat mount so I'm right there with you on that

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by mcfilmwerks View Post
    Looking good man! Do you have a link with the overs you bought? I'm basically in the same boat as you, I want the FF for the quality but if you found something cheaper that fits well/you recommend I would most definitely consider it.

    My evo 3 hits the door a little and the bolster touches the trans tunnel too with my vac mounts also, the mount didn't work completely when I got it, and I expected a little more in regards to fitment for such an expensive seat mount so I'm right there with you on that
    just ebay felony form. from what i have heard there isn't much "quality" associated with FF lol. but yea i had to remove my door panel to fit my seat unfortunately. trying to figure a way around it. i really miss my recaro Profi XL maybe ill have to drop some bread.


    IG: dimitriantoniou

  13. #13
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    so i just picked up some 57Dr gram lights in 18x10.5+12 and they are literally perfect fitment but they are 5x114. New re drilled hubs are like $300+ i have to pull them and replace them (not fun)


    Here is my idea: Using a transfer punch I'm going to mark out the new pattern (5x114) on to my hub from my wheel or a 5x114 spacer, drill a pilot hole, then an M12 hole and tap it to m12X1.25 and thread my new studs in.

    I don't see any issues honestly. The hub bore are perfect size so I really cant see what could go wrong alignment wise. Any advice?


    IG: dimitriantoniou

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by e30 394 View Post
    so i just picked up some 57Dr gram lights in 18x10.5+12 and they are literally perfect fitment but they are 5x114. New re drilled hubs are like $300+ i have to pull them and replace them (not fun)


    Here is my idea: Using a transfer punch I'm going to mark out the new pattern (5x114) on to my hub from my wheel or a 5x114 spacer, drill a pilot hole, then an M12 hole and tap it to m12X1.25 and thread my new studs in.

    I don't see any issues honestly. The hub bore are perfect size so I really cant see what could go wrong alignment wise. Any advice?
    this has been an idea of mine for awhile. ive even contacted a friend about making me a template with 5x120 holes for alignment and 5x114 to drill. you would have to do this on the rotors as well. the thing that i was thinking is that since everything is threaded rather than press in, its possible to run both sets of wheels. a few people already sell 5x114 conversions, but they all use press in studs.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by RandomHero27 View Post
    this has been an idea of mine for awhile. ive even contacted a friend about making me a template with 5x120 holes for alignment and 5x114 to drill. you would have to do this on the rotors as well. the thing that i was thinking is that since everything is threaded rather than press in, its possible to run both sets of wheels. a few people already sell 5x114 conversions, but they all use press in studs.
    The people who sell the hubs want $600 for a set! I think that's out of control honestly. I'm going to try and space the bottom of my over fenders out about 10mm and run some 15mm adapters and see if that works if not I may be drilling some hubs.

    Main concern is how hard the metal might be, and getting the holes straight relative to the mounting surface.


    IG: dimitriantoniou

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by e30 394 View Post
    The people who sell the hubs want $600 for a set! I think that's out of control honestly. I'm going to try and space the bottom of my over fenders out about 10mm and run some 15mm adapters and see if that works if not I may be drilling some hubs.

    Main concern is how hard the metal might be, and getting the holes straight relative to the mounting surface.
    nerp does them for $75/corner and provides the ARP studs if you send in everything. but you cover shipping both ways. and i was thinking the same thing about a DIY job.

  17. #17
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    If you won’t pay $75 a corner then time to learn you self a trade. I wouldn’t do them for less than that either, especially since he’s providing studs aswell. Redrilling hubs is gay, a lot of setup time for very little machining. Oem hubs are even worse because you need to line up the gay little rotor holder bolt things and that sucks (or atleast did on e46m3 rears because the holes for those bolts aren’t symmetrical). I was going to do a template to just manually drill them but it was a lot more work than setting them up in a cnc and if your drill wanders at all you’re screwed and your shit will be wobbly or not bolt on

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikestokman View Post
    If you won’t pay $75 a corner then time to learn you self a trade. I wouldn’t do them for less than that either, especially since he’s providing studs aswell. Redrilling hubs is gay, a lot of setup time for very little machining. Oem hubs are even worse because you need to line up the gay little rotor holder bolt things and that sucks (or atleast did on e46m3 rears because the holes for those bolts aren’t symmetrical). I was going to do a template to just manually drill them but it was a lot more work than setting them up in a cnc and if your drill wanders at all you’re screwed and your shit will be wobbly or not bolt on
    $75 a corner isn't bad at all, I was quoted $600 from another company. I fabricated all my parts prior to moving to Texas because I had the shop space and the equipment. Its hard to fabricate things with limited hand tools in a 2 car garage lol.


    IG: dimitriantoniou

  19. #19
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    Might contact PBM and see if you could have them just make you a template, they offer one to redrill 5x100 BRZ rotors to 5x114.3

    https://store.partsshopmax.com/shop/...ct-description

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Novablue454 View Post
    Might contact PBM and see if you could have them just make you a template, they offer one to redrill 5x100 BRZ rotors to 5x114.3

    https://store.partsshopmax.com/shop/...ct-description
    thats where i got the idea to just redrill and thread everything. i think they use a template and a drill press. theres a vid on their facebook of them doing it.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by RandomHero27 View Post
    thats where i got the idea to just redrill and thread everything. i think they use a template and a drill press. theres a vid on their facebook of them doing it.
    the only concern ive heard is that the hubs are scalloped on the back, there is physically thicker material where the stock holes are so drilling between those for the new pattern might not be as strong. How important is that? personally i don't think its significant, if 400hp race cars with huge slicks and massive downforce not have an issue with breaking stock hubs, I'm sure the thinner portion can handle my 225/40 street tires at 40psi lol. But some companies claim to have solid hub surfaces that have the same thickness all the way around.


    IG: dimitriantoniou

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by e30 394 View Post
    the only concern ive heard is that the hubs are scalloped on the back, there is physically thicker material where the stock holes are so drilling between those for the new pattern might not be as strong. How important is that? personally i don't think its significant, if 400hp race cars with huge slicks and massive downforce not have an issue with breaking stock hubs, I'm sure the thinner portion can handle my 225/40 street tires at 40psi lol. But some companies claim to have solid hub surfaces that have the same thickness all the way around.
    i was thinking the same thing. get out of my head. i dont have the parts handy and im too lazy to look at the way the stock stuff is. i dont think it would be too bad, we arent jumping things, and i dont think many other cars have the extra thickness around the studs. i dont recall my old car having that when i broke the studs going over a mega pot hole i didnt see.

  23. #23
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    My e36 non m fronts were cast like you are mentioning, e46 m ones were solid.

  24. #24
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    Certain aftermarket hubs come with a flat backed surface, a set of Moog bearings I had were like that but they were just junk anyways.

  25. #25
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    Nothing huge, but i got ahold of some Ichiba 15mm adapters to test fit.

    1. they don't fit, well they do but the tolerances on the hub are so damn tight you cant have ANY corrosion on them

    2. they don't fit, you need to trim the bolt or else it hits your parking break internals.

    Any way, I think its gonna work out well. I'm getting some smaller tires this week if it warms up, going with 225/40/18 on a 10.5 You can see the fender is resting on the tire in the pictures. I'm going to trim the fender, space it out a bit and add .5-1* of camber to make it nice and tight. My goal is to be able to swap between these and my 17's without any adjustments.

    FYI: 18x10.5 +12 (-3 after adapter)
    IMG_0060.jpgIMG_0059.jpg


    IG: dimitriantoniou

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