Thanks man
I want to say around 1.5* not too sure, Really have not found an alignment shop near me that does low cars, and I've been changing to many parts to warrant an alignment (it'd be screwed in a few days lol) so far tire wear had been even so that's really my indicator lol
I love typing posts up and then having them delete...............
Installed a cool little temp sensor. $8 on ebay, install was easy. Pwr Grd tapped off the plug for the OBC, I had the 11 button one so it sucked and I don't mind losing it. I had to extend the sensor wire about 2 feet but it as just 2 little wires. Its great having piece of mind. Its funny how rudimentary the factory gauge is. It points dead center from 50*c till over 100*c. I haven't had it over 107*c but my shutdown temp will be around 120* for me. I'm going to wire in a switch to override my fan as well so i can start it up on them hot texas days.
Pro tip (kinda) I ran some CAT5 cable like internet cable through my fire wall so i have like 5 wires for gauges now. small gauge but as long as its relayed or doesn't draw a lot of power it should be fine lol.
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I also found some federals for $100 that still had the little nipples on them. they are 225/35/18 on a 10.5 I must say its a little more stretch than i anticipated lol. but they don't rub and they seem to be okay so ill try and find a 235/35/18 if that is even a real size and it should be perfect.
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Currently chasing done an issue that makes the car lose power and run funny. It feels like its pulling timming or something I'm not really sure.
So far I've replaced Coolant temp sensor, plugs, boots, TPS, Camshaft position sensor (auto zone) cleaned the maf, sea foam, intake boot fuel filter, injector cleaner for about 3 tanks.
I have a new o2 sensor going in but currently deleting every vacuum line and the ccv from under the intake and upgrading to an m50 manifold. Here is a picture of my plugs idk what they are saying but people said lean, so maybe Maf maybe injectors Idk.
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I swapped in m50 mani over, RTV'd all the connections, deleted oil separator and replaced the vac lines. There is what looks like a sensor with a plug and vac line that goes to the SAP system do i need that? I just need to get my hands on another throttle body gasket so i can get that leak fixed and then I Should be golden.
Man it's been so long since I did anything with an M50 based motor. Esp late models. I have no idea.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
So, good news. I got the m50 manifold swap, and ccv delete all wrapped up. Fixed my lean condition. but still was down on power and misfiring. I found some new coil packs cheap locally and tossed them in and it helped tremendously! Id say running 90%. I'm going to let it keep adapting to the manifold and then probably get a tune eventually.
I pointed my valve cover vent at the hood and ran the hell out of it and didn't find any residue witch is nice. So I got some 3/4in house and routed it under the intake and back to the firewall just to make it look clean. Up next is upgrading my 3clutch to a 4 clutch lsd. Can i just toss a new bearing on my new end cap and reinstall? No need to set any gear stuff right?
*waits for Protomr's infinite knowledge*
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i think thats it. there was a video on VIMEO awhile back where the dude added the clutches and washers. But theres also youtube videos now too. check those out. i think you only have to check stuff when you swap ring and pinions. but, maybe im wrong.
Bet any video you find is mine lol.
Yea it's pretty simple. You just machine off 4mm iirc (or less if you want preload), shove in a new stack of a dog ear plate and a clutch, and shove it all back together. I saw a dude do a 4 clutch with NO machining but that would be so preloaded, it might as well be a welded diff IMO. I know some guy removed the belvue (sp?) washers to get the extra clutch set. But I wouldn't do that... Just machine and go.
Short answer, yes, shove new bearing on it and reassemble. It's really that easy.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
okay cool, a company called diffs online (out of Serbia maybe) sells a brand new end cap that is already 4mm thinner that I bought my clutches and dog ear plates from, so I picked that up ill take a pic of it. Seems really well made. My stock end cap had 2 ears broke off. It locked great as a three clutch after I put it back together missing 2 bolts so I could make an event, but it feels a little funky so I'm pulling it tonight before it really breaks something.
Yep, they are very reputable. I just took my cap to a machine shop. They looked at me like I was nuts. First, I had to convert 4mm to metric. Then they were a little insulted that I asked something so menial of them. I had to pay the shop minimum of $65 lol.
But yea broken ears are no good. Not like stuff will come off. I just don't like things unbalanced.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
I mean, it's a diff cap... kinda hard to screw up lol.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
Tore into the diff last night, god I hate pulling these differentials. But I've goT bad news and worse news. So the fluid had a lot of shiny stuff in it, I'm hoping it was just from the break in process of the new clutches and plates. There wasn't a lot of metal on the speed sensor witch tends to collect metal because it is/becomes magnetized. The worse news is One of the cap bolts backed out and Fubar'd itself. no damage to the ring gear or pinion thank god but the bottom of the case is all gouged up. Took it all apart and cleaned it up inspected it and reassembled. Not sure what I was looking for, but no unusual wear or anything. Here are some photos.. New cap and bearing, rip lil bolt 1995-1999, and clutch wear after 600 mile break in.
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Ps: Going to a Club loose meet and great tonight, they are the new host of the local events in Texas. going to have them look over my car and see if I need to fix anything for tech. I wish my car was a 2.8 or 3.2
That's kind of a bummer but it could have been worse
Pretty pumped that CL made it out to texas, I want to make a trip, I know there's a few guys from here that are trying to line up trailers to get their cars out there for the opening but if anything it gives me an excuse for a vacation
I've had fresh diffs need about 3 fluid changes before the stop giving speckles. So I wouldn't worry about that too much honestly. The real issue is scoring on the plates and just general uneven wear. I think your stuff is fine lol. Run it!
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
Im hoping to be at the meet tonight. Pinched something in my back and am currently at the ER getting meds. Tech should be the same as always, but with the new group, who knows.
I always use redline 75w90NS. I don't know if the NS does anything. But IIRC it's for clutch diffs.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
quick question about the ichiba adapters... Were the lug bolt heads too long when you mounted your wheels? I test fitted a vssd on my car a few months ago and the adapter went on fine, then when I went to test fit the rezax the lug bolt head was too long and stuck out past the spacer and didn't allow the wheel to sit flush on the adapter. Did you run into this? The only thing I can think of is that the lug bolts I was using the second time were replacement ones I bought from ecs and when I mounted the vssd they were just oem ones that came with the car. I found some short head lug bolts that I was gonna order but I just wanted to check
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