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Thread: BMW E39 touring Tailgate Strut Replacement DIY / No BMW tool Needed!

  1. #26
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    I just did one side tonight. Here are a few additional tips I found.

    I believe the link in the original post is incorrect for the glass strut.
    https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...4aAo7xEALw_wcB
    This brings you to BMW part # 51248222913, which is a larger strut. I believe for a sedan trunklid.
    I took my glass strut out and it was a different size, it's actually this one.
    https://www.fcpeuro.com/products?keywords=51248190688
    BMW part # 51248190688

    If you look at the two together, they are different lengths and the ball/socket and pin hole align different. (old on top, new/wrong part on bottom)
    20180109_193002.jpg

    I only replaced one side of the tailgate strut and it's enough to hold the tailgate up now. I'll do the other side eventually, but you can save a few bucks and just do one side if you just want your tailgate to stay open.

    Lastly, I would recommend spraying some WD40 or similar on the pins as soon as possible before getting too far into this project. It's not a very hard job and pre-soaking these pins to get them out makes things much easier.
    Last edited by danmurphymn; 01-09-2018 at 09:17 PM.

  2. #27
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    Woah, im so sorry. Im not sure how that happened, i was 100% sure it was Glass hatch strut that i linked, I proof read and clicked everything before posting, not sure what happened there as the Tailgate strut was correct, but i updated it just incase.

    And yeah those pins need some convincing to get out if you dontt lube them. best of luck on the other side!

  3. #28
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    Thanks for this great write up! I'm ready to do this to my touring this week.

    Do you by chance have a method for removing the plastic trim around the interior perimeter of the hatch without snapping all the little plastic tabs that are used to attach it? I tried removing a piece and I believe I broke every single tab on it and now have to source a replacement.

  4. #29
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    geargrinder is offline Having No Trouble Here BMW CCA Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by cerobbins View Post
    Thanks for this great write up! I'm ready to do this to my touring this week.

    Do you by chance have a method for removing the plastic trim around the interior perimeter of the hatch without snapping all the little plastic tabs that are used to attach it? I tried removing a piece and I believe I broke every single tab on it and now have to source a replacement.
    That's a widespread problem with the 20yr old plastic on these cars now. You can try warming stuff with a heat gun first, may or may not help, more likely to help if your ambient temps are real cold. Use a small pick to gently pry the tabs only as far as they need to go vs trying to just screwdriver-pry 'em. But yeah. They'll do that.
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  5. #30
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    Any idea if the trim pieces are still produced? or do I need to find a good donor to replace the ones that are already broken?

    Thanks!

  6. #31
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    They're all available. The pieces on the donor cars will all be brittle.
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  7. #32
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    Datapoint:

    I'm about to replace the hatch struts (not glass) a second time. in July 2014 I replaced all four struts with Stabilus-Boge brand supplied from AutohausAZ. The Glass still holds decent but the hatch falls down. I was hoping for more than 3 and 1/2 years out of these expensive struts but this time I'm going to try BMW OEM...
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  8. #33
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    Does anyone know how to open the rear glass manually? I believe my release button has failed and I cannot open the glass to remove all the trip and finish this repair.

    I also need to source a replacement switch.

    I believe this is the part but I'm always reluctant to order without an image: https://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin...on=61318363631

    realoem diagram: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...75#61318363631

    Has anyone replaced one of these before? Any helpful hints or guidance?

    I love when a project turns into another project.

  9. #34
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    This post helped me when I did mine yesterday, thanks!

    The reason you had to bend your shock out was because you didn't move the tailgate up (likely up) and down slightly to remove the tension on the pin. It should just slide out, just like it slides in.

    Also, the tailgate only works 100% when the smaller gas struts are installed. I first installed the two larger ones, then tested the tailgate. It felt the same before I did the work. Once I replaced the smaller gas struts, it worked like champ. The smaller struts assist the tailgate and the tailgate window.

    For those who want to fix theirs, my guess is you could get by only replacing the smaller struts (inners) assuming the outers aren't bad. My small struts leaked, but my original larger ones appeared to be good. I bet if I only replaced the small ones, I would have been OK.
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  10. #35
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    My 2 cents with pix:
    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...php?p=28259187

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  11. #36
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    Thank you for the knowledge. Well done

    - - - Updated - - -

    Nice car

  12. #37
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  13. #38
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    3rd time now replacing the hatch struts so you'd think I'd know what I'm doing. I'd always just done the main ones before as I didn't realize the glass ones played such a role. Oh well. And fighting the plastic trim around the glass struts was the most difficult part.

    But... after having done it twice before, and testing it at least half a dozen times, probably more like 10, I heard a snap and it came crashing down. Turns out I didn't have the main ones snapped all the way on! One came off and when I checked the other wasn't all the way on. I'd always just used a big azzz screwdriver before and it worked fine, but this time I had to stick my crowbar in there to get the last snap.

    But after replacing both? Wow, that hatch never came up like that before! It goes allllll the way up, where I had to push it to before, not just up. Now you have to pull it down, not just bring it down. I strongly recommend to anyone looking at the hatch struts, to just do both of them, the glass and the hatch. The glass ones are the cheap ones so just bite the bullet and do it. And make damn sure you get the hatch strut sockets all the way on.
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  14. #39
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    I replaced both glass and big ones about 4 years ago. I really thought they would last longer, I got BMW oe struts for the big ones last time, had to replace them last month as we had resorted to carrying the broom stick around in the back. I wonder if the extreme temperatures on both ends of the spectrum play a factor in longevity. This time I just got OEM stabilus. I replaced only the big ones this time and got the results you describe, the tail gate goes all the way up on its own with a slight lift up of the finger. My wife was delighted. I had to get use to the change, I kept flinging the tail gate up too hard with the new struts. I figure I'll replace the glass ones every other time.

  15. #40
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    I think what kills these struts is dirt that makes its way in the roof orifice and eventually, opening and closing the tailgate or the glass slides dirt into the rubber seals of the struts, eventually ruining there ability to keep the gas in. If only BMW had rigged up a gasket to the cave that the struts are in, seal up to the tailgate when shut, these stupid struts probably last much longer.
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  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by BimmrMeUpSnotty View Post
    I think what kills these struts is dirt that makes its way in the roof orifice and eventually, opening and closing the tailgate or the glass slides dirt into the rubber seals of the struts, eventually ruining there ability to keep the gas in. If only BMW had rigged up a gasket to the cave that the struts are in, seal up to the tailgate when shut, these stupid struts probably last much longer.
    I don't think so. Other gas struts for the hood and the like don't seem to have problems coping with dust and dirt. But most gas struts have more travel, the ones on the E39 only compress a little bit, so little they need that helper spring on them. No small spring either I might add, and they're so close to the hinge point they don't have any leverage so they've got to be perfect to work.
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  17. #42
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    New here.
    I know this post hasn’t seen much attention lately but I had a quick question. Are the strut nipples removable, would I have to yank the headliner? I broke one of them clean off (woops) Didn’t even have that much pressure on it.

  18. #43
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    I can't imagine you wouldn't have to pull the headliner. Granted while I've done the struts 3X now, I haven't pulled it, but even if it screws in and is an easy replacement, which I doubt, you're going to need to get to it.

    Best of luck on what sounds like not a fun job.
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  19. #44
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    Nope, no headliner work needed. The struts live in a cave up there behind the hinges. Did you break the ball end on the gas strut or the ball nipple off of the hinge, or worse, the ball nipple way inside the cave? You need to get a long armed tool, like a pry tool, something about 8" long or more, the longer the better. I don't know what they covered in the thread, but You have the bigger gas strut with the spring, and the smaller strut for the glass. I used a long clip tool when I did it years ago. You have to pull the plastic covers off that go in the tailgate hinge area clean the cave out as well while you are in there. Place grease in the nipple balls, or the sockets in the struts, and the clip point s on the small struts that go to the glass connection point.
    Set the controls for the heart of the sun

  20. #45
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    You broke the fitting that is part of the roof - or did you break part of the strut?

  21. #46
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    I broke the fitting in the roof

  22. #47
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    I don't know how that looks - I think it would be a hex fitting - maybe 10 or 11mm socket. can you get a pic - anyone else would have to take it apart to see that detail.

  23. #48
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  24. #49
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    Awesome thank you CPHES. I will have to check it out when I get home and see if I can get a picture or pull it out

  25. #50
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    If that is what broke - get a new one, and find the right tool.

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