I have a rally road oil feed bolt for sale
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Nice 1/4 stats..
http://www.bmwmregistry.com/detail.php?id=13792
* E39 M5 SterlingGray -RIP 11/2018
* E36 328 vert Schwarz - ~TurboProject underway
* E90 335i Sedan MonocoBlau - Daily ToddlerTaxi
Hey Guys! I've been working on this parts list for a couple days now, and I still need to add some more stuff to it and it will probably be changed around, but here it is so far (All parts have a link to the site if you click on the part) I'm still trying to save some money here, so if I can save money on any of these parts and still retain reliability please feel free to tell me what to change. I still need to add certain stuff like oil lines, but I still need to decide what flange for the oil feed and return I want to put on. I'm probably thinking a -6AN feed and a -10AN drain into the oil pan. What are your thoughts so far from the more experienced and what should I change around? Also I need to figure out a solution for the downpipe because I dont know anyone who can weld.
Parts Costs Precision 5858 .62 A/R (T3) $1,000 (Price of Turbo can Change) Tial 38mm Wastegate $234 FX Stage 3 Clutch Kit and Chromoly Flywheel $386.98 3" Intercooler Piping $123.00 Intercooler $93.98 Ebay Tial BOV $69.98 SPA Top Mount Exhaust Manifold $499 AFR Gauge $145.42 TRM OBD2 Tuning Package $1,549.95 Vanos Banjo Oil Supply Fitting $29.95 CES Cutring Headgasket/Copper Spacer Combo $499 ARP Head Studs $216.01 Walbro 255 Fuel Pump $89.99 Fuel Filter $54.95 Still need more oil lines Total: $4,992
-4AN oil feed. Not -6.
Spend the money on a zeitronix data logging kit. The ZT-2 kit. Then add to it. It will help you sort out your car. Also help you dial it in for tuning with TRM.
I was given a HKS bov recently. Its brand new. I don't know if its real or an eBay fake. You can have it for the price of shipping
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1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
You can wait and look for used parts and probably save 1/4 or more.
You can tune with and datalog with RomRaider for about $40 total if you already have a laptop.... $1500 for a "tuning package" from the guy who posted the Supra dyno graph as a bimmer and adamantly denied it???? Does this really fit with "cheap" being in the title? I guess it's all a matter of perspective.
I heard from some people earlier in this thread that TRM were good tuners and this package comes with injectors, maf, and data logger. I really don't know anything about tuning, but I'll gladly look into other alternatives. Thanks for letting me know, and yes this is a cheap build, and I'm trying to cut down costs greatly. Thanks
Well, there are lots of ways to skin the cat, and lots of definitions of "cheap." RomRaider works great if you are into doing your own tuning, and my $169 eBay "GT3582" has served me well.
E85 makes things a lot easier to deal with, and genuine Siemens Deka 80# injectors are pretty nice for a reasonable price. At least a couple of us are using a generic slot style "Nissan MAF" from eBay with RomRaider and it works well.
The thing is, to be cheap like this means you have to figure a lot of stuff out for yourself. If you buy a package from someone like TRM, you should expect them to make that stuff happen for you MUCH quicker and easier. But then you are kind of stuck with what you have, versus if you did things yourself you have a lot more flexibility. Different strokes for different folks.
Your parts list is a good start. But your missing some stuff, etc... heres my input:
Clutch kit - I ordered and installed the same one. Do not use the cheap throw out bearing that comes with it. It doesnt work. Get a quality oem or equivalent. Maybe rock auto? Add a slave cylinder to your list as it will be a good time replace it while your doing the clutch. While you have trans out or lowered why not grab a decent short shift kit and throw it in. Also maybe refresh pins ? I grabbed a short shift kit off Amazon. Think it was $20, works great. You'll also either have to rent a pilot bearing removal tool or buy one... so factor that in as well. The chromoly flywheel does chatter a bit when warm. So if that stuff bothers you, consider keeping the dual mass
Intercooler: you might want to consider getting a better one. I was on a budget build as well and bought the treadstone 1235 recommended by butters. Lifetime warranty, easy to install, and as solid as a rock. Literally. Other than the turbo probably my favorite piece of the build.If you get the 1235. You can take mild steel and fab brackets to connect to the bumper brackets effortlessly. It fits perfect...
IC piping - Turbo outlet is 2.5" so you'll need a 3" to 2.5" silicone or aluminum, etc... elbow and 2.5" piping if the IC inlet is 3". Which it probably will be.
IC silicone elbows - the universal kits come with extremely cheap thin silicone couplers. Dont use them. Get reinforced couplers
Clamps - get good t bolt clamps. Again the ones that came with piping where junk. All the kit is good for is the pioping. If you plan having everything welded disregard...
Intake boot - you will need a mishmoto or equivalent intake boot. There silicone.
Manifold fittings- you can brass fitting from home depot or Lowe's. They work.
Oil Drain- you will have to drop the subframe to tap the pan or you can do what I did and blow out the oil plug to 1/2 npt and drain to it. You will T the drain off and run the middle of it to the top most of engine bay for a vent. Thank Butters and all the veterans here for that ^ it will save you hours if you decide not to drop the subframe or how ever you choose to tap the pan... I have lots of pics of this.
Manifold bolts - your gonna need these as well. And there actually not cheap. Some guys run the bolts and nuts from the newer i6s becuase there cheaper I believe. I think I got set from technical for like $70?
Intake manifold - I don't recall if your m52 s52 or not but you might want to grab an m50 manifold and tap it while it's out. They flow more air. If you don't have one already.
Turbo discharge - are you going with 4 bolt or vband ? I recommend vband. Easier to remove. Might want to think about this
Boost controller - are you just gonna run on a spring pressure ? You can get manual dials for cheap. But eboost street is fun to play with....
Turbo manifold - that is a bottom mount manifold. Same one I used. Is quality and fits great. They even sell WG pipe for it for like 80 that takes the thought out of it... I like bottom mount. Things stay cooler and it's easier to have a filter.
AC - keeping it or not ?
Down pipe : Pte sells flanges for their turbos. Mine was 3 5/8 flange to 3 in exhaust. Yours I believe for a 5858 will be 2.5. You should have no problem fabbing a 2.5 dp yourself. I fluxed my exhaust, the welds look bad as there flux but they don't leak and there strong. I ordered a 2.5" universal exhaust kit off amazon:
Speedway Motors Mild Steel DIY Custom Mandrel Exhaust Pipe Straight & Bend Kit (2-1/2") https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I47IEY4..._.HBrAbYVERM01
And made it work. Saw saw and all. Works fine
If you can fit 3" do it. If not you can open the 2.5" up to 3" right after. I bought a welder and if you plan on keeping this car or doing work like this you should have one too..
Boost leak tester- you'll need to fab or buy one... a must have
Wastegate- are you going recirculate or run open? Legal to run open?
Boost gauge- need one as well
Afr gauge - as butters said the zt2 is solid. I haven't used data logging yet but plan too. But you can really expand on the package so many different ways and has a ton of features and a ton of room for expandability
Tune - ah the fun part.... I don't recommend messing with Rom raider yourself seeing as this your first build. Your gonna be overwhelmed as is. If you can afford it pay someone to do it for you. If your patient and wanna learn than diy. With that said once you start seeing these turbo parts come in your gonna wanna drive it... it's easier to let someone else handle it at that point. But I dont recommend using a company that's super busy. Your gonna need someone who's willing to help you hardware wise as well and answer any questions you have. In otherwords someone readily available. I can't attest to trm on that level.
Headtools- at the very least if your doing the gasket your self you'll need timing blocks and a sprocket tool. I'll let you borrow mine
With that said there's gonna be a bunch of other little things here and there and there gonna cost even more money... since this is your first build your gonna spend a bit more than listed above especially if you have to buy equipment. As a new builder like myself I would suggest waiting around for used parts to save some money. It's not cheap.... and doesn't ever end.
I have a brand new rally road vanos feed bolt $15 shipped. 30 new
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Make your own vanos bolt.
Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
Or you could do that if you have a 1/4 npt to -4 an lying around and a tig / decent welder for aluminum
Woah, thanks for all this informations, I'll try to respond and leave my thoughts to all of it below. Tell me what you think.
Clutch Kit - It's good to know that someone else has bought this and knowing its not that bad. To me, flywheel chatter isn't that big of an issue since it's not causing any damage and is mostly just an annoyance.
Intercooler stuff- That's defiantly a nicer IC than the one I have listed in my spreadsheet, but its also around $250 more. If I end up getting some extra cash, I'll put it towards this intercooler so I can have the piece of mind that I have a good one. I'll make sure to pick up a 2.5" to 3" so I can fit all the piping with my turbo. Those reinforced couplers do look really good, but damn are they expensive just for individual ones. If the ones in the kit are that bad, then I'll make sure to pick up better couplers. Can't have my intercooler piping coming apart on full boost. I was already planning on getting better clamps, so the ones in the kit are not a worry.
Intake Boot - I see the mishi one is around $80, so I'll probably end up picking it up.
Oil Drain - I'll have to check out your build thread for more information on this oil plug drain because dropping the subframe doesn't sound too fun. If you don't mind me asking, what's the point for the vent and what happens if you don't have one?
Manifold Bolts - I had no idea they were so expensive, I'll have to see where I can pick some up for the cheaper side.
Intake Manifold - If I end up finding an m50 intake manifold at the junkyard I'll pick it up along with the swap kit from bimmerworld for around $180.
Turbo Discharge - I tried looking up Turbo Discharge because I didn't know what it was and couldn't find anything on it. If your taking about the wastegate dump, I'll either have it dump straight down or into the exhaust.
Boost Controller - I'm gonna stick with the wastegate spring at around .6 or .7 bar, and thats like 10 PSI
Exhaust Manifold - Wow, I was almost completely sure that that was a top mount, turning it upside down probably wouldn't work right lol? I'll have to look around for a good top mount then, the only reason I'd rather go with top mount is it seems like the IC piping would be easier and you get to see the turbo more. Any top mount suggestions?
AC- Definitely keeping AC.
Down Pipe - That exhaust kit looks pretty awesome and I'll surely get it, I also plan to add one of these (https://www.ebay.com/itm/GReddy-Revo...-/302368271044) but maybe a cheaper one.
Boost Leak Tester - Will get one
Boost Gauge - Will buy one too
AFR - The ZT2 kit is something on my mind currently, so I'll have to do a bit more research on it.
Tune - I've heard some good things about TRM, but I'm exploring all the options out there to see which one works the best for me.
Headtools - I have a lot of tools at home, but I don't have those 2. Thanks for offering to lend me them.
The further and further I dive into this project, the more crazy it becomes, but im thankful to all the veterans on here to help me out. I'll be keeping the spreadsheet updated and will keep posting it to get feedback, and the build will probably start in a year or year and a half, where then I'll start a build thread. It seems like a common theme here is that you need a welder, but I think my dad's good friend own a shop, and I might be able to use the welder there or get some help for free or at least at a heavy discount. Thanks for all the help!
I bet most folks that jump from a 5X mm turbo to a 6X mm on this forum wish they never started out with such a small turbo. for a few more $, I would run a pt6266. To offset that cost, I would also run a stock HG with studs, no need to pull the head off to lower compression if your running e85 and 450ish whp.
if I had to do it all over again for cheap with a M52. I would buy a $75 M50B25NV, take the rods and cylinder head from it and install in the M52 with Head studs and ARP rod bolts and call it a day. I believe that combination with some M cams would be a screamer and could handle some major HP and RPM.
I saved some coin by using a 6-puck ridged clutch along with the stock pressure plate and flywheel. That's my .02$
good luck on your build.
WOT
I am no veteran by any means and if you follow through with the build you'll know just as much if not more than me. It's all learnt as you go with lots of reading and research in mind. I've got all my information from this site. I just thought I'd fill you in on little details that I found as I went along to make yours go a bit smoother
Clutch Kit - I've had no problems with it. But It only has about 1000 miles on it. Only other complain is the clutch pedal is pretty stiff
Oil Drain - A vent is needed allow air in the line to help return the oil to the pan Especially for Precision
Intake manifold - Do not spend 180 on the kit. You can easily find fittings for it yourself. Your going to be under there getting rid of a few things anyway
Couplers - the Silicone couplers that come with the 3" kit more than likely will blow up like a balloon at 10+ PSI. Do yourself a favor and avoid the hardware troubles and either 1. save up 2. find a way to get quality parts to make your life easier.
Flipping the SPA, I've read of people talking about it but have never seen anyway do it. You would probably need a flange like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/T3-TO-T4-TURBO-TURBINE-EXHAUST-CONVERSION-ADAPTOR-FLANGE-CAST-STEEL-CONVERTER/351461880978?epid=1528702642&hash=item51d4c2b492:g :QvcAAOSw8d9Uvs67&vxp=mtr
If you go SPA you can get this WG pipe for it https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wastegate-mont-WG-mount-for-BMW-E36-turbo-manifold-TMSPT02/182622317165?hash=item2a85236a6d:g:wdoAAOSw4DJYhjZ T&vxp=mtr
You also need to figure out if you want to run 2 bolt waste or vband as well. As for discharge, I meant the exhaust. The back-housing of the turbo whether you'll run a 4 bolt DP or VBAND DP.
As your first build it will be a PITA... I have people texting me all the time that are doing there first build that have general questions. If your planning to spend 4k expect atleast 5k or even 6+ if you don't have equipment and plan to weld, etc... If I were to do a second build I could do it for half as much. But for a first timer your bound to order stuff that wont work or end up with crap you don't need. Yes the stuff is expensive but unless you wait around for used stuff to pop up your gonna have to pay to play...
I also have the tap for the drain plug as well. If you PM when the time comes Ill send you the stuff
Here's the Drain and cheap silcone for IC
And here's Cheap Silicone at 10 PSI expanding
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Last edited by 328iFun; 12-29-2017 at 03:19 PM.
I'll see if anyone recommends any top mount manifolds before I consider flipping the SPA, but hopefully I can find someone who has done it before. I'm having a little trouble understanding the point of the WG pipe you think. I thought you just bolted the WG onto the spot on the SPA manifold with the right flange? Also I wouldn't need a T3 to T4 conversion flange because the 5858 I'm getting would be a T3 version with the T3 manifold. The only reason I would see to get a new flange would be to extend it for clearance purposes if I flip the SPA, with some type of T3 to T3 flange extender. The budget is tight, but I plan to start the build in around May of 2019, which hopefully I'll have the car by then.
I mean u guess could put the wg directly on the manifold. Your talking a tight fit though and changing the spring would be a pain
Not sure what spa or anyone here recommends. But I don't think the wastegate would got directly to well or the benfits doing so
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There's the spa pipe and mani
It drops wastegate in a good spot to change spring and recirculate
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If you go with a cutring combo put it on while you have the head off.
I put mine on while the head was on the block... took me 5 hours. I checked my studs last night and one the of the rear bolts have come loose. I need to re-tighten it but I have no leaks. So much easier with the head off. But is doable if you go the E85 route.
And... I wouldn't say top mount is any easier
Your gonna have a crazy down pipe coming from the engine bay and if your new to welding and cutting your gonna have to pay someone to make it (which is going to heat up your engine bay and increase temperatures too). Otherwise you may waste material and time. Your gonna need to buy or make a steel cover so you don't melt the on top of the head. You'll more than likely have to run stock crappy plastic headlights as any good DEPO or similar units have an enlarged back housing and a decent filter wont fit. In my opinion angel eyes via depos arethe best cosmetic upgrade I did to the car.
I was gonna go top mount but the guys here convinced me to go bottom. So much easier for a beginner
Last edited by 328iFun; 12-29-2017 at 05:59 PM.
That definitely sheds some more light on the situation, I have a while to decide, but with what your saying I'll probably just go bottom mount then. Saddest part is just not being able to see that turbo . My other concern with bottom mount is how the turbo outlet makes intercooler piping kinda wierd, but I can just face the turbo outlet downwards and just run a 90 degree coupler and piping to the intercooler right? Also do you have any pics of your completed exhaust and wastegate setup?
Yeah, you've got plenty time to start acquiring parts.
You can run piping from turbo to IC under the sub frame. As long as you don't drop the car too low you'll be fine. And if it does take a ding, aluminum takes them well (I know, gravel road) a lot of abuse. If you measure it just right you it wont ever rub. You could always go over sub frame as well but that requires some finesse and the pipes will get hotter.
As far as seeing the turbo, that was my thought as well. But I enjoy people asking where it is when I show them the car and how perfectly tucked it is. Once you get into building the car you'll see your turbo plenty and you may want to beat it with bat every now and then or throw it against a wall.... The sound and the power will replace wanting to visually see it, trust me on that
Not trying to persuade you either way but I took the advice from the guys here and in your case it would be easier. Especially if you really wanna do your own exhaust.
you want the cold side housing on the turbo point slight inward towards the motor. This will raise the piping to the inlet of the IC right under the sub frame of the car. Almost hugging it. Adjust accordingly to get it as high as possible.
IC, Piping, and aligning them was the easiest part of the build. Don't worry about that.
I post a pic of my exhaust earlier in your thread. My waste is not recirculated to yet but it will be eventually.
Im redoing the exhaust now..
Doing 2.5" DP which immediately goes into a gutted cat which has about 3"+ inner diameter then immediately opens up to dual 2.5" Y pipe. will run dual 2.5" pipes with cherry bombs to the rear. Should flow pretty good. Ill post pics when Im done
Last edited by 328iFun; 12-29-2017 at 06:20 PM.
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