I never talked smack about your setup. I have no idea what it is. All I was saying is 350-400 HP is not enough to bend rods. Your car at the time of failure had issues like all cars that fail. Anything can happen at any time to anyone. But it wasn't the power that bent or twisted the rods.
I advised him from the rods that he was going to buy for 1 simple reason and I will use his words "very tight budget".
So, I would hate to see him yank the motor, prolong the build, and put the money into rods that will be fine in HIS case scenario. It costs much more than the $500 to change rods. That's $500+ that could go towards data logging, maybe a better turbo or whatever. It would be like spending $5000 on 32 way adjustable crazy coilovers for a street car that isn't racing in anyway. That money can be wisely spent elsewhere that will help keep things together long term. Personally, I feel data logging with failsafes and or properly tuned standalone system is best INS.
Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
Even better idea.. Buy one already to go. Like this.
Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
I asked this earlier this earlier, but I think it was kinda buried in my response, but here are the questions. Should I be getting the head milled and resurfaced along with new valve seals before the cut ring head gasket and boost? and also can I be boosting on a stock ecu or should I just get a megasquirt? Thanks!
I always have the head checked and decked. Now that these motors are all 20 years old, its a good opportunity for a shop to change stem seals, check for worn guides, nicked or bent valves, seat condition, etc. To me, its not worth doing a headjob twice and buying an expensive gasket again.
I would get a stock ECU tune. A good tune is very flexible. I have had the same tune since 2009, and run it on 2 motors, 4 different turbos, 3 different manifolds, stock S52 cams and schrick cams, stock head and ported +1mm valve head. Runs greats with wastegate disconnected for no boost, runs great at low rpm and light throttle before I get in boost, runs great at 10 psi, runs great at 15 psi, runs great at 20 psi. I would not mess around with a standalone unless that is a project you want to get into and you want to tune your car yourself. People have made 1000 rwhp on a stock ECU with tune. Aftermarket ECU can do things a stock ECU cannot, but you don't need those things to have a reliable well sorted out car.
Just wanted to add that you can't put an s52 crank in anything else without the right pistons. The piston pin height has to match the stroke.
I see no reason not to use a stock ecu tune for what your doing.
if it were mine I would clean the head up at home and put it back in assuming you have a healthy motor
fear not, this path has been walked a couple hundred times
Bottom line, have another car/reliable daily driver while this your project car becomes a project car.
1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)
1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
Auto/Convertible and staying stock!
let me chime in because it's been a while since we had a 5mall5nail5 argument.
Substance D, no offense, but if I had 5 cents for each count of how many times I had been consulted on builds that involved self-built, self-tuned MS setups, I'd be rich.
Not trying to cast judgement, but I've had cars roll into my driveway on MS2/Extra that "just need a tune" and I find out there are open circuits to coolant sensors, etc.
You had a failure at 500 RWHP (which is somewhat useless, torque figures make more sense here) which is NOT the norm. I ran an M50 non vanos for probably 80k miles on MS both supercharged and turbocharged in the 350 - 450 rwhp realm for YEARS on a college budget. Your car experienced a failure - could be from the ECU, the tune, or the care of the engine previously. That said, your result is not the norm.
Last edited by 5mall5nail5; 12-20-2017 at 09:52 AM.
Substance D- What was the rpm limit on the engine that windowed the block?
I appreciate your opinion. We can speculate all we want, but honestly, I know my setup inside and out. Will I put another motor together with stock M52 rods, nope.
I don't want to muddy up this kids thread anymore than I already have.
pm'd
back on topic.
I have seen 3 different stock m50/m52's in the junkyard with holes in the side of the block, so I guess the safe hp limit is less than 150 whp. It happens to any type of motor.
Last edited by someguy2800; 12-20-2017 at 06:29 PM.
What I'm saying is it wasn't necessarily your or anythings fault. It a mechanical thing and they break. That doesn't mean they all break. Roll of the dice.
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
I bought a spare m50 manifold online. For a direct port setup. Cleaned it all up and was driving it for a few thousand miles. It must have been really wedged in there. At 22-23# it broke it lose.
Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
For this build that I'm planning, since I'm not taking the engine out I don't need to worry about gaping the piston rings to a certain level? Just stock gaps?
First, the answer is no
There are 2 ways you can prepare the motor.
a. Cutring gasket, spacer, and arp studs
Will lower compression to 9:0:1 which is why you don't need to gap the rings. With a good tune and that compression the engines are good for up to 550whp. Its been proven, dont listen to the random dude who posted pics of pos rods and his build. Something was wrong or went wrong with his build that caused his shittiness
b. You can build the motor and gap the rings in the process.
But its been proven so many times that you can make good power out of the e36 engines and previous I6 engines without major modification. As long as you use quality components and an excellent tune you'll be okay.
That doesn't mean go chasing waterfalls of power, the motor is stock. But I can say first hand on a base-tune and about 7-12 psi the cars are an absolute blast. If I can keep it in this power range I'm sure the engine would last as long as I wanted it too. Everything else, rear end, trans, etc... Is what you need to worry about. Unfortunately Mr. Rods didn't make it to that point :-(
oh and if you have e85... strap a turbo on it, have it tuned, and drive it. Skip all the nonsense
Last edited by 328iFun; 12-21-2017 at 04:41 PM.
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