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Thread: Bad EWS really an issue on E38s?

  1. #1
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    Bad EWS really an issue on E38s?

    I may be purchasing a $500 E38 on craigslist for parts. Its got a really good black interior to replace my beige as well as the transmission I need for mine that decided to die. (A or E drum failure most likely).
    The seller states that it has an EWS issue with software which is causing it to not start. He says he's tried a few things and even new key with ignition coil sensor and what not. The only info I found on E38s with EWS issues was the module itself having either melted or rusted inside? I really would like to get the car started before I part it out just to confirm engine and transmission are in good shape.

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  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by SergeBMW View Post
    I may be purchasing a $500 E38 on craigslist for parts. Its got a really good black interior to replace my beige as well as the transmission I need for mine that decided to die. (A or E drum failure most likely).
    The seller states that it has an EWS issue with software which is causing it to not start. He says he's tried a few things and even new key with ignition coil sensor and what not. The only info I found on E38s with EWS issues was the module itself having either melted or rusted inside? I really would like to get the car started before I part it out just to confirm engine and transmission are in good shape.
    Can't you just get a new EWS module on Ebay and reprogram it from the supposedly working IKE module? They seem to go quite cheap: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-BMW...JXWEs6&vxp=mtr

    Though it would freak me out to touch my EWS, but I have much more invested in this car than $500

    What if you go there with a notebook and an EWS module from Ebay, try copy data from IKE to new EWS and if not working putting back old EWS. You would only risk whatever you paid on Ebay for new EWS (what you might be able to resell anyway).

    Just a thought.

  3. #3
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    You would need to get a diagnosis. Could be the EWS is just out of sync with the DME, or it may have a bad crank sensor. If he had the software to diagnose an EWS issue, he should have been able to resync. I've never heard of melting or having rust inside. What year is the car?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by georgebest View Post
    Can't you just get a new EWS module on Ebay and reprogram it from the supposedly working IKE module? They seem to go quite cheap: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-BMW...JXWEs6&vxp=mtr

    Though it would freak me out to touch my EWS, but I have much more invested in this car than $500

    What if you go there with a notebook and an EWS module from Ebay, try copy data from IKE to new EWS and if not working putting back old EWS. You would only risk whatever you paid on Ebay for new EWS (what you might be able to resell anyway).

    Just a thought.
    I don't have the software for that kind of work unfortunately, I just have diagnostic BMW DIS and INPA which is what I will run first when I get the car just to see if it was a misdiagnosis.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mayorchuck View Post
    You would need to get a diagnosis. Could be the EWS is just out of sync with the DME, or it may have a bad crank sensor. If he had the software to diagnose an EWS issue, he should have been able to resync. I've never heard of melting or having rust inside. What year is the car?
    Im not sure of his diagnosis but I don't trust it either. I quote "I change the battery and immobilizer start block ignition by software." He also states that he has two keys, apparently one with the unlock buttons and another for just door and ignition. Thought these only came with remote keys from factory? Maybe the EWS just needs to be re-synced? I believe this can be done via INPA.

    The car is a 1998 IL model. Looks somewhat rough on the outside but clean. I did see in the photos that the drivers under dash panel cover has been removed, EWS location. Honestly I feel I am picking up someones mess with the EWS system but it wouldn't really matter too much because its a parts car. Just would like to get it running to fully test engine and tranny.

    BMW 7er Website www.7er.com
    1989 BMW 735i Schwarz (sadly, sold) // 1989 BMW 750iL Cirrusblau Metallic // 1998 BMW 740iL Oxfordgrün Metallic // 2000 M5 Carbon Schwarz ///

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by SergeBMW View Post
    I don't have the software for that kind of work unfortunately, I just have diagnostic BMW DIS and INPA which is what I will run first when I get the car just to see if it was a misdiagnosis.



    Im not sure of his diagnosis but I don't trust it either. I quote "I change the battery and immobilizer start block ignition by software." He also states that he has two keys, apparently one with the unlock buttons and another for just door and ignition. Thought these only came with remote keys from factory? Maybe the EWS just needs to be re-synced? I believe this can be done via INPA.
    I'm not sure INPA can do that, but NCS Expert can do it for sure. I'd just read the data from IKE and write it into EWS, that is the whole concept of having the data in two modules so you have a backup if one failed. I have no idea if that can be done with INPA, never seen any option for that, but could be.

    Of course this could be like hundred different things, I'm just talking about the option when you need to replace the EWS module.
    Last edited by georgebest; 12-14-2017 at 11:34 PM.

  6. #6
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    Never heard of an EWS module going bad. DME-EWS sync loss, all the time. If they changed the battery with the key in the ignition, that could do it.
    INPA (I think) or DIS (definitely) can re-sync.

    Replacing an EWS is not as simple as coding it with NCS. The DME is married to it and the key transponders are too.

    E38s came with 4 keys: 2 remote, 1 valet (grey head) and 1 wallet (small black plastic)
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  7. #7
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    Original key set (from owners manual) included 4 keys: 2 remotes, a wallet key and a valet key


    Ditto about "out of sync" EWS. Multiple things can occur to get things out of whack...something as simple as disconnecting an ews component then turning on the ignition will get things out of sync:

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