No power to Fuse 18. Please help stuck on side of road

[SonofaM3]

Hey all this is truly messed so my car randomly decided to stop working and I had no tools. Couldn’t hear fuel pump buzz so I got a new one. Nope. Okay so I have my multimeter and there is power to dme relay with ign on and off(12.06) and power to fuel pump relay same amount with ign on and off. No power to fuse 18 and I can get the dme relay to click when I plug and unplug but I have 6 other relays for the fuel pump relay that are the same and non are clicking on or giving me power to fuse 18
I have no idea if my relays are all bad because they aren’t clicking or if the wire between the relay and fuse 18 are bad. No power to fuel pump the green and purple wire but I have power to the other connection I think the fuel level sender?
Not even the new relay from autozone clicks(I know autozone sucks but I figure it’s new it should be okay to test). So I’m going to jumper wire to the relay with just a piece of wire quickly to test if fuse 18 will get power.
Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks everyone it’s a 95 M3

[shogun]

Check the fusible link. On the 95 M3 it is located about two feet away from the battery along the smaller power cable inside the trunk just before it passes through to the back seat. The smaller wire and the larger wire are wrapped with a heat shrink tubing like plastic where the fusible link is located.
FusibleLinkE36.jpg
FusibleLinkE36_1.jpg

[ross1]

Is there 12v at the relay socket that corresponds to pin 30 on the relay? If not, Shoguns suggestion is where to begin. What about the one corresponding to pin 86? If not check the DME relay as it serves the fuel pump relay coil.
I think it's worth mentioning that if the crankshaft position sensor fails and the DME does not see engine rotation it will not call for fuel or spark.

[SonofaM3]

Yes I have power to pin 30 with ign off for both relays and power to 85 or 86 with ign on for both relays. I jumped the power to the fuel pump and i heard it running and heard fuel at the rail, cranked the engine and it did not want to start. Only issue I don’t understand is why I don’t get power to the pump when the relay is good, I took a friends from his running car and same issue. Even when I jumped the fuel pump though it wouldn’t start so I believe there is no spark or fuel, hopefully it is the link or CPS and I can get it driving.
Another problem that started after was my key spun around a couple random times but I still can crank the engine over, would that make it so my car wouldn’t send the signal to start but would crank the starter?

[ross1]

RE FP relay, 86 should have juice, 85 is the ground for the coil which ought to be switched by the DME*
Bypassing the ign switch is easy enough to do for a test but I can't imagine that would just fail as you were driving.
Where are you doing the jumping for the pump? If at the relay and I correctly understand the conditions the relay is NGay, 86 should have juice, 85 is the ground for the coil which ought to be switched by the DME
* assuming the relay has 12v at 30 & 86, with relay installed if you ground pin 85 and the pump runs the DME is not sending the command(ground signal), or at least it's not getting there.

[SonofaM3]

With the fuel pump relay in I back probed into 86 and with the key in position 2 it has 12v, 30 has 12v with the key off. the only one that doesn’t have 12v is the wire going to the fuel pump, 87. So there’s no buzzing or priming of the pump. 85 has 12v too with the key on and relay in its spot. So the Dme relay is good and I am getting power
When I jumped the power from 86 to 87 it’s like there is no relay and I could hear the pump prime and when I cranked it I heard fuel in the rail and lines. However it still did not start after a couple tries so I’m leaning toward the CPS or something that tells both to fire/send fuel

[SonofaM3]

So the CPS (crank) is supposed to be 1280 +/- 10% it’s at 496. I’m gonna strip one off a friends car and go from there

[SonofaM3]

New CPS didn’t fix it, still no power to pump and even with carb cleaner it wouldn’t try to start. I’m going to try and swap DME and go from there but am not sure about the EWS 2 situation

[ross1]

New CPS didn’t fix it, still no power to pump and even with carb cleaner it wouldn’t try to start. I’m going to try and swap DME and go from there but am not sure about the EWS 2 situation

So, you have no spark either?
Still leaning towards the CPS here.

[shadowpuck]

if i remember correctly, the bentley callout for CPS spec is wrong here - it should be +/- 10% 550....

how have you checked for spark? does the CEL ever light up at all?

[ross1]

if i remember correctly, the bentley callout for CPS spec is wrong here - it should be +/- 10% 550....

how have you checked for spark? does the CEL ever light up at all?

Yes, that's caused some head scratching over the years. Book says 1280 ohms. I have this notation penciled in my book, 540 ohms +/- 10% Same as the M20/30/50s
Also a similar error regarding m20/30/50 ICV values. Use same values stated for the M60

[bmwdirtracer]

Is the DME bolted correctly in place, or otherwise externally grounded?

[shogun]

As for the Bentley repair manual, I regularly check for updates online, for example they corrected also the CPS spec. for the E32 m60 from 1280 down to 540 +/- 10%. Same like the M30 and M70 engine.
But there is no update for this for the E36 manual, only
BMW Repair Manual: 3 Series (E36): 1992-1998
Page: Radiator and Cooling System - pages 170-6 and 170-7 (B398)
Page: VANOS control unit, installing - page 117-17 (B398)
https://wiki.bentleypublishers.com/d...1EF2488C5494F9
My E36 manual printed in 01/1999 mentions 1280 +/- 10% coil resistance between terminal 1 and 2.
Pulse generator, crankshaft 12141709616 was found on the following vehicles:•3' E36 (12/1993 — 08/2000),•3' E46 (04/1997 — 08/2006),•5' E39 (02/1995 — 12/2003),•5' E60 (12/2001 — 02/2005),•5' E61 (10/2002 — 02/2005),•7' E38 (03/1995 — 07/2001)•7' E65 (07/2002 — 02/2005),•7' E66 (09/2002 — 02/2005),•X3 E83 (01/2003 — 07/2006),•X5 E53 (08/1999 — 09/2006), Z3 E36 (04/1996 — 06/2002), Z4 E85 (01/2002 — 11/2005)

Maybe one of the pro's here with access to other technical data sources than Bentley can check what is correct then. I found out it is a hall sensor (?) (mentioned in the spec for an aftermarket one). And if so, testing with an ohmmeter can destroy the hall sensor, says Hella, I have posted here the details between hall and inductive cps http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/1262793

here we had some discussions on the different sensors http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ing-Every-Year