New E39 Owner - Code deciphering issues

[ammartin88]

Hello guys!

First of all, I absolutely love that everything I search for I find a link to on this site. There's a ton of information. I was hoping I could share the printout from BMW that I was able to get and you could help me decipher what the issues may be. As it stands, I have the standing ASC/ABS/Brake constant light on (Brake and ABS actually seem to disappear and reappear after a cold morning start.) Check engine light is on and attached is the list of all the diag codes. The checkmarks are all the parts I have bought - or so I think I have gotten them.

https://photos.app.*******/GbGiwCxigzVwHisw1

I appreciate any help you guys may have - if that link didn't work I'll type them out below here:

CODE DESCRIPTION
000068 DME: VANOS exhaust camshaft, end position not reached (I have bought both the intake and exhaust sensors and plan to install them) - BMW said i may want to replace the whole VANOS
000095 EGS: CAN wheel speeds (I have NO idea what this one is and wasn't able to find anything about it on the forum, except for ABS sensors)
000020 DSC: Wheel-speed sensor, front right, transmits implausible signals (i bought a RF ABS sensor)
000058 DSC: Precharging pump (My research on here most likely leads me to needing to send off my ABS control module for repair - the BMW has 158k mi)
00000A IHKA: AUC sensor (I bought a new ambient temp sensor)
0000CE IKE: Outside-temperature sensor (I bought a new outside temperature sensor as well)
00005D GM: Central-locking drive, driver's door (since my driver door does not lock, even with key, I bought a new actuator)

Disclaimer - this car was a salvage rebuilt vehicle and has been driven 30k miles since I got it from my uncle. Texas has much stricter inspection policies so I get to deal with all this.

All in all, it drives fine - I drove all the way from Lexington, KY to Dallas, TX in this beautiful BMW. I'm in love with it and just want it to work and be a car I can depend on until either I or it dies. I'm not expecting quick/easy fixes, and definitely want to take my time, but it's been my dream to own one since I was a kid.

I appreciate your help community!

Alex

[geargrinder]

Dude-bro thanks a million for typing out the codes. Helps hugely. Now look, I can do this...

000068 DME: VANOS exhaust camshaft, end position not reached (I have bought both the intake and exhaust sensors and plan to install them) - BMW said i may want to replace the whole VANOS

Dealers don't know about / can't do / will poop on aftermarket VANOS rebuild options that will be 1000x less expensive, although require some labor. Search here and elsewhere for things like "M54 VANOS Beisan" etc.

Unlikely the sensors will make the difference.

000095 EGS: CAN wheel speeds (I have NO idea what this one is and wasn't able to find anything about it on the forum, except for ABS sensors)

EGS means transmission computer, CAN means internal communication network. This means the tranny isn't getting wheel speed information from the ABS unit over the internal network. May simply be a byproduct/side-effect of the bad ABS or could be a comms issue.

000020 DSC: Wheel-speed sensor, front right, transmits implausible signals (i bought a RF ABS sensor)
000058 DSC: Precharging pump (My research on here most likely leads me to needing to send off my ABS control module for repair - the BMW has 158k mi)

DSC = traction control and ABS module yes. Yes perhaps the RF sensor is bad and perhaps thats all you need there but... Yes also the module itself may be crapping out from the 2nd error. Nothing to add you're on the right track.

00000A IHKA: AUC sensor (I bought a new ambient temp sensor)
0000CE IKE: Outside-temperature sensor (I bought a new outside temperature sensor as well)

IHKA = climate control, and AUC is not ambient temp sensor. Its the pollution sensor that sits on the bottom of the radiator expansion tank. "They all do that" aka almost every car I scan has those crapped out, mine included. Not a real high-value feature but if you value it you could try to get a good used one (again, all the used ones seem bad tho'...) I keep hoping I find a 'recently replaced' one in a junkyard sometime.

Yes IKE outside temp sensor is the ambient sensor... those aren't 2 different things. Did you buy 2 of them? Or did you buy an AUC and an ambient? Be prepared the temp sensor code often is because the right front fender liner got destructed and the sensor flew into the landscape. If that's the case you'll need a fender liner. They suck and break easily and suck in a sucky way of very much suck suck.

00005D GM: Central-locking drive, driver's door (since my driver door does not lock, even with key, I bought a new actuator)

Cool, lets hope that does the job.

Texas has much stricter inspection policies so I get to deal with all this.

Ha. Texas is 'strict'!? Son you don't know how lucky you are!

Yeah most of that stuff shouldn't interfere w/ your inspection except the ABS light/code, and perhaps the VANOS causing a CEL. Unfortunately the type of malfunction that the SES is caused by (VANOS) is probably not at all related to inspection-required function in any way however Texas may require 'no CEL' (in some states its OK to have a CEL as long as the codes aren't emissions related... maybe BMW consideres the VANOS emissions related tho'...)

Good luck, sounds like you're on the right track though.

Honestly, that's not a terrible list of codes and issues by any means.. the ABS and VANOS are a bit involved but could be much worse...

[ammartin88]

geargrinder, thanks for your detailed reply!

That makes me feel better to hear its not the worst list of codes anyone was seen. BMW pretty much stuck their nose up and refused to even diagnose this the FIRST time I went. Saying "it's a hodgepodge of repairs" and for our liability we refuse to service. Sorry BMW, I wasn't looking for more than use of your computer. It drives like a dream and just reading this, its a bunch of sensors that need to be replaced, I don't think that's half bad for what I got it for.

I'll update when I get more progress on lights going out. After the car stops pulling any errors, try to do some body work (the front bumper is falling off and damaged from previous wreck/total and I have a dent in the driver side quarter panel.) Maybe redo the paint and get this thing looking as close to perfect as possible. Not looking for immediate gratification but definitely want to drive it!

[geargrinder]

There's dealers and there's dealers. The oldschool dealers who have been around for ages and are privately owned (better yet stand-alone owned vs part of a big network owned by some guy...) are often pretty great and remember the old cars and support local BMWCCA chapter stuff etc. But esp nowadays, plenty of them have zero history or passion (or compassion). They're just slinging cars and service and they could be selling Lexus or anything else for all they care.

Find yourself a good "BMW Indy" (independent shop specializing in BMWs). Somebody here from Dallas should be able to point you in a good direction. Dealer is basically useless to most of us anyway, but especially if you have an a-hole dealership... (to be fair my local dealer would be fine working on the car and I actually know one of the main techs very well as he went over there from the indy that I actually use...)

[ammartin88]

Cool, thanks again for the advice. Can you recommend the best way for me to scout out a few Dallas natives here that are active?

[Grim Reaper]

Welcome to the club. Got two E39 528s with lots of mods to each one and be glad to help you get yours sorted. Shoot me a PM once you get enough posts

[ammartin88]

That's awesome! Thank you so much. I'll get in touch with you as soon as I can!

[ammartin88]

Okay.... well now I have antifreeze all over my engine after driving. I drove maybe less than 10mi. Engine temp stayed nice and center. I started smelling a horrid smell (I thought it was my pancakes) When I was at a red light I saw smoke coming out. When I got home, liquid literally everywhere on my engine. From previous service receipts the radiator was replaced. I don't know where to start to diagnose and I definitely don't have the mechanical know how to fix just yet. Any thoughts/ideas?

[JimLev]

Welcome to the forum.
Clean off the antifreeze with some water and paper towels, rags, etc.
Then check the coolant level, your need to add more to make up for what came out.
Start the engine and let is run with the hood open so you can see where it's leaking from.
It might need to get warmed up before it starts leaking.
Could be the expansion tank, one of the many hoses, the water pump, the thermostat housing, hopefully not the new radiator.
Report back what you find.

[ammartin88]

So, the expansion tank is absolutely empty. I assume add more through there. Is there a particular brand you recommend?
When I am running the engine and checking for leaks, I'm assuming I'm keeping the lid on for pressure as well?

[JimLev]

Yes, that's where you add coolant, don't overfill it.
At this point is doesn't really matter much brand you use, it's going to leak out.
I use the BMW coolant, might want to use that after you fix the leak.
Your vanos code is most likely a mechanical problem inside the vanos that could be easily fixed when the o-ring get replaced.

[capebmw]

You are getting some great advice from people that are VERY familiar with these cars! GG/JLev. Heed their advice. As far as your latest task, I wouldn't worry about putting antifreeze in at this point. Just use water. You will be draining this thing down completely to do whatever the repair is and the AF will just be a waste of money. Also, these cars are very sensitive to overheating. You can crack/warp a cylinder head in a few seconds if you continue to drive it. Then you have a much bigger issue than a cracked/leaking hose or water pump. You said the car had been in a front end accident, maybe this is part of that. Keep us posted.

[geargrinder]

Yeah +1 on the water... esp. for Dallas. Unlikely even if you have a cold snap that it'll be below freezing long enough to be an issue inside an engine block that will still have at least some coolant in it already. Also +1 on the hazards of blowing a HG on an M54 engine.

As Jim says - with BMW's it can be a whole host of things sadly... If it was all over the top of the engine, it should be pretty easy to spot the leak (vs a "leaks out the bottom but looks dry on top" hassle). Only caveat is that while driving, the fan and road wind blows leaks like that everywhere so ideally you get it to replicate the leak sitting still in the driveway after its dried out while you are watching just as Jim suggests...

[Grim Reaper]

Alex - just saw you post. I am local and can try to give you an experienced hand to troubleshoot this issue. Check your PM.

G

[JimLev]

Alex - just saw you post. I am local and can try to give you an experienced hand to troubleshoot this issue. Check your PM.

G

+2 Grim Reaper.....
This is one of the good part about this forum, people that don't know each other willing to lend a hand to strangers.
I have personally met a lot of you guys, either at car shows, at my house, your house, at some burger/pub joint, etc.

[ammartin88]

Thank you all for the help! I'm new to this community and I'm already able to tell that the people here are amazing. Grim, I'll get with you shortly.

To give a bit more information, I was pretty much home and parked by the time I had started to smell the burning AF, the temp gauge didn't raise up past mid and a crap ton of it tried to go back to reservoir. I'm hopeful/thankful that I wasn't driving downtown or anything yesterday. I'm not driving it one more inch until this is repaired.

Side note, if the warning notice "Check Coolant Level" has been on constantly and since I drove it home it operated fine, but there was an ever so small drip, is it possible that all this time it was the AF doing a slow leak. If so, then I was mistaking it more for oil leaks, since I did have the smell of burning oil (when I got my valve cover repaired from a crack and oil dripping onto manifold.) I replaced those gaskets and all is well from "smelling oil" but never had a chance to really clean the underside of the car well to try and isolate to other oil leaks.

Thanks all again so much! I know with this community, the threads and the people - my e39 will be my dream car like I want it to be.

[Grim Reaper]

Thank you all for the help! I'm new to this community and I'm already able to tell that the people here are amazing. Grim, I'll get with you shortly.

To give a bit more information, I was pretty much home and parked by the time I had started to smell the burning AF, the temp gauge didn't raise up past mid and a crap ton of it tried to go back to reservoir. I'm hopeful/thankful that I wasn't driving downtown or anything yesterday. I'm not driving it one more inch until this is repaired.

Side note, if the warning notice "Check Coolant Level" has been on constantly and since I drove it home it operated fine, but there was an ever so small drip, is it possible that all this time it was the AF doing a slow leak. If so, then I was mistaking it more for oil leaks, since I did have the smell of burning oil (when I got my valve cover repaired from a crack and oil dripping onto manifold.) I replaced those gaskets and all is well from "smelling oil" but never had a chance to really clean the underside of the car well to try and isolate to other oil leaks.

Thanks all again so much! I know with this community, the threads and the people - my e39 will be my dream car like I want it to be.

Nice meeting you tonight. Here's a summary of additional things to source in order [in addition to your cooling kit from FCP Euro] to get the car back in action:

1 - new radiator
2 - new plastic fan [couple broken blades on yours currently]
3 - new fan clutch [yours is very close to being locked up]
4 - (2) push pin retainers for mounting and holding the fan shroud [currently held with zip ties]
5 - given the movement and how the radiator sits too low on the driver side you are probably missing or have a collapsed radiator lower mount [ part #3 on this diagram - http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...iagId=17_0113]

Tools

6 - 32 mm open end wrench for the fan clutch [ here is a simple $10 foot long on ebay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/FACOM-FM-45...AAOSwekhZ35Oy]
7 - 1/4 drive sockets 5 to 13mm in short and deep
8 - 3/8 drive sockets 8 to 21mm in short and deep [or at least to 19mm]
9 - open and box end wrench set 8mm to 21mm so you can cover most suspension work - if you really start wrenching it will be handy to have doubles in certain sizes when you go to do suspension work
10 - torx, hex driver sets

This should get you out of the box and started on disassembly and then you will have all the right parts to do a full cooling refresh.

[geargrinder]

Sounds like poor car is a bit knackered! Reaper prob said so already, but you don't want to drive too far on those problems (i.e. busted fan blades + bad clutch + loose/floppy radiator).

Sounds like a good forum meetup tho. Nice.

[ammartin88]

It was a very eventful night. I started playing around inside the car to get used/comfortable with playing in my car. I just ordered the parts so when it gets in, hopefully my other tools come in as well. I'd like to get her back on the road soon. After the full cooling refresh is done, then the vanos repair (beisan) then misc sensors. After all that, I have my bavsound upgrades and a grom bluetooth radio adapter to install. I really really love this car, and it excites me to dive into it and truly make it "mine" by fixing it up myself.

Thanks again Grim for your help (and everyone else in the community) I could never do this alone!

[ammartin88]

All parts are ordered and I've run the gamut of tools. Everything should be here come Friday. Here's hoping for good weather to tear it all apart

[ammartin88]

So, the entire cooling system has been replaced. I replaced the external temp sensor and the stink sensor (i was very happy when I found where it belongs on the shroud.) I also got my fog lights working again, as well as the coolant level sensor. It holds pressure and the engine looks very pretty (clean). Now onto the vanos seals.... because my acceleration is SO SO SO sluggish. Here's hoping I don't have to spend $700 on a new vanos and the new o-rings from beisan is all i need.

[StephenVA]

Good Luck!