How Remove Cable from Amplifier

[2WD]

Ok. So alot of DIYs talk about just disconnecting the wire harnesses from the amp including the Bentley manual. But I cant seem to get it loose. Am I pinching it wrong? Is the tab on the left harness supposed to be flipped or something?

[JimLev]

Non DSP amp?
12 pin connector or the 26 pin?

[jbhoopsbmw]

Had a hard time removing mine too I got some channel locks and pulled softly and wiggled it out at the same time it worked.

[777300ER]

Push the connector into the the amp, push the tab in, then pull out.

[BavarianE31]

Mine was super difficult too. Almost just cut it out but use pliers or something similar. Pinch and wiggle and it'll come out.

[sealbeach740]

Mine was difficult to remove also.
Facing the amp (driver's side) from the trunk, you have to slide it to the right & up slightly at the same time.
I just kept pulling & pulling, a little at a time & finally it slide to the right about a half an inch & then it came up & off.
Went back on much easier.

[2WD]

So this part is one of the connections I'm puzzled about. 61136913644. Apparently, its called a universal housing socket uncoded covering cap. Do I just pull the whole thing straight out of the amp or is the grey cap supposed to be pulled back or something?
61136913644.jpg

[JimLev]

You need to push the little center "button" in and then swing the white arm to the opposite position, that will make the connector extract itself got the socket.

[sealbeach740]

To 2WD - if that's the connector (in the picture) you're trying to remove, never mind what I posted earlier. Jim's info is correct (above).

[2WD]

You need to push the little center "button" in and then swing the white arm to the opposite position, that will make the connector extract itself got the socket.

Thanks, Jim! Why didn't I think of that? Since I obviously don't understand how to read these connections any idea on how to pull out the cable on the right? I tried carefully wiggling out using water pump pliers but I was afraid of the plastic obliterating apart.

On a side note, I am trying to just replace this amplifier because I think (hope) that it is the cause for no audio for an otherwise working radio. Who ever engineered these cable connections also did the nut and bolts that attach the amp to the bracket. The nut is actually screwed in from the outside (fender side)! I was able to use a stubby ratchet wrench to get two of the nuts out but the one on the bottom right corner is a little hard to get to. Thinking if I disconnect the cables and pull the bracket away from the fender wall I might be able to reach that last nut.

[JimLev]

That connector is removed as Sealbeach posted above, post 6.


Never mind, I was thinking about the 15 pin connector that has the slide mechanism to release it.

image.jpg

[Solo12]

The 12 pin cable can be a pita to remove. I was a bit stumped on how to remove it w/o breaking anything the first time I attempted it. Qsilver7's tip on using a large flat head screwdriver to help get than connector out little by little worked well for me. Insert the screwdriver one side of the plug and GENTLY pry up (to get INCREMENTAL don't try and remove it all at once) while depressing the side tabs. Once you have incremental movement on one side switch to the other side to get incremental movement there. Keep going back and forth until you are able to remove the plug. The key is to be gentle and only go for incremental movement so you don't break anything. There may be another way to do it, but this way should woke fine if you are patient.

You can also remove the whole amp bracket which will give you access to the backside of the amp. I think it make require some contortions and/or some extensions.

[2WD]

Thanks Solo and everyone else! I was able to finally able to slowly pry out the connection.
So, one last bolt to remove the amp from the bracket but, as I mentioned earlier in this thread, the nut is screwed on from the fender side instead of the trunk side. Used a stubby wrench to get a couple of the bolts out but the one to the right of the amp is a little difficult even with a flex head ratchet wrench. I can't get enough throw to unscrew it. Anyone with an idea? I am thinking of holding the nut on the fender side with a box wrench then twist the stem of the bolt on the trunk side with a pair of long nose vice grips or something.
I did look at removing the bracket the amp is connected to as suggested earlier but there is a bolt at the bottom of the bracket whose nut is screwed on from underneath the car an not from the trunk side. So, its essentially inaccessible.
Man, what a PIA! All this just so I can listen to the radio!
20171223_144331.jpg

[fullthrottle540]

Why did you have to remove that to listen to radio? Did you go aftermarket?

[2WD]

The stock radio works but no audio. My guess us that the amp is the likely culprit so trying to replace it.

[Thrifty S50]

Is the clock working but the radio and radio display is not? Recently went through this thinking it was the amp. Turned out to be fude 56 in the rear fuse box.

[Solo12]

Glad you were able to get the plugs out.

Used a stubby wrench to get a couple of the bolts out but the one to the right of the amp is a little difficult even with a flex head ratchet wrench. I can't get enough throw to unscrew it. Anyone with an idea? I am thinking of holding the nut on the fender side with a box wrench then twist the stem of the bolt on the trunk side with a pair of long nose vice grips or something.

Is the issue that there is not enough room to swing the ratchet so it actually moves screw or the screw backing out is trapping your ratchet against the fender so you need more physical room to get the screw out?

If it is the former then use a 72 tooth or higher ratchet as you need less of a swing arc to engage the ratchet. A small one like this one can be useful if 72 tooth is enough. If you already have a 72 tooth and need an 84 or 120 then it be hard to find a small inexpensive one, but plenty of people make full size ones in those higher tooth counts.

A finger drive ratchet may also work you should be able to get one cheap from lowes, homedepot or amazon. Personally I think dual drive mini is more versatile, but it is up to you.

If the issue is space behind the screw then buy or borrow a ratcheting box end wrench or ratcheting combination wrench. Lowes and Home depot sell singles. But if you buy probably makes sense to buy a set versus a single wrench as prices for two single wrenches will probably be the same as the price for a set. Just make sure the set goes down to the size you need.

Lowes has this a old bulky style set on sale for $11.99 (I am not sure if it is available in stores though). If you have a Harbor Freight near you something like this set or this set or this stubby version might work if any of the small sizes are correct. fyi if you go to harbor freight don't forget to bring a 20% off coupon and a coupon for a free item (the magnetic parts trays are a good freebie)

Also a pass through ratchet might work, but I am not sure if you have to have special sockets for it (so make sure you can get the size socket you need).

Free Tool Rental
Also Autozone rents tools for free. I am not sure what their selection is on small hand tools, but it may be worth a shot if you don't want to buy anything.

I did look at removing the bracket the amp is connected to as suggested earlier but there is a bolt at the bottom of the bracket whose nut is screwed on from underneath the car an not from the trunk side. So, its essentially inaccessible.
Man, what a PIA! All this just so I can listen to the radio!

Hmm sounds odd. I wonder if a previous owner did something weird or BMW just made the screws more accessible on later model e39s. I know I was able to remove my bracket from inside the car. Everything was pretty accessible nothing was fastened from underneath the car. Any chance You just need to remove that one nut I drew an arrow to in your pic?
20171223_144331_edit.jpg

iirc it seems like it is plastic and a little odd shaped so it kinda throws you off.

[2WD]

Many thanks Solo! Turns out I was able to unscrew it with a 10mm ratchet wrench. It didn't even look like a nut. Anyway, I appreciate all the replies and help. I managed to finally remove the amp. Turns out the reason why the bolts were screwed on backwards to the bracket is because the bracket itself is not threaded. The brace of the amp that attaches to the bracket is where the threads are. So, a washer placed between the head of the bolt and the bracket secures it into the amp brace where the bolt it screwed in. Hope that makes sense. Anyway, going to get some nuts to place on the fender side so I can screw the bolts from the trunk side to secure the amp in place. Happy to also report that the radio has audio now! Literally music to my ears.
Happy New Year!