How risky is to change engine mount?

[georgebest]

I wanted to see what stud design they had. Did you read my link where I evaluated them? There was a difference between quality and cheapo which turned out part of how I was identifying them. I also had personal experience with a aftermarket mount that was in worse shape then the original that was never replaced (if that sentence makes sense).

It used to be widely understood that Corteco was the manufacturer of the mounts for BMW. However, my experience with them, made me conclude that they no longer were producing OEM mounts since I interpreted the Corteco to be cheapo quality and we snapped a stud when installing it. The button head of the carriage bolt (stud) popped off.

Only read it after I installed, sorry!

[ECSTuning]

cyclops2 I just flagged the E38/E39 M62 genuine BMW mounts for new photos on the site (LINK) to see if the stud design has changed, usually takes my guys about a week to process the request.

-James

[cyclops2]

cyclops2 I just flagged the E38/E39 M62 genuine BMW mounts for new photos on the site (LINK) to see if the stud design has changed, usually takes my guys about a week to process the request.

-James

James, the OEM mounts at your site look legit and would have the BMW logo. however, the update pic would be interesting because it would show if the vendor of the mounts has changed. But usually mounts are 5 years old or more (maybe NOS).

The issue I found is when Corteco, which was believed to be the OEM vendor, did change their design. I bought Corteco, thinking they were OEM for much less money. But they had the button head design on the carriage bolt, which popped off during installation. I concluded the best mounts were OEM and the only way to ensure you got them was to buy them from a seller saying they are BMW original parts (as you have them listed).

Now it makes sense that there are different price range options; so you have URO, Febi, Lemferder as options with increasing prices across those options.

Here is pic from your site of the Febi brand and you can see the button head carriage bolt stud vs the flat head used in the OEM (and lemferder - although I don't know which design would actually be included when purchased).



Not only is this a stud issue, but my experience with OEM vs some aftermarket years ago showed a huge difference in mount/rubber quality and life vs the OEM mounts.

Thanks. Just helpful options for buyers.

Dan

[Jerry Scholder]

Trying to figure if I can do it myself, watched a few DIY videos and it doesn't look too difficult.
But I only have an old school jack like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and never done it before.
How badly can I mess it up?
Indy wants $300 for work, what seems a bit high considering that some guy did it in minutes on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EvppdaZtKbc&t=
What do you think?

Thanks!

Well George, how did this job turn out as I'm about to do the same? I looked at the 10 minute motor mount change; not impressed with the teaching end. Hardest part looks like jacking it up and placing the wood in the right location so as not to damage anything. Did you get the new Jack?

[nmlss2006]

I am not George - but it doesn't take ten minutes. I cheated and used blocks and a lift (drop the car on the lift, blocks hold the engine up... no way for anything to fail) and it still didn't take 10 minutes, nor did it take 20.

Also, be VERY careful about the air pump hose. It WILL split when you lift the engine 'enough' to get the mount out safely.