Cracked Valve Cover-What Should I do?!

[Support528]

Ey its ya boy back again haha.

My darn valve cover is cracked on the lower 2nd bolt hole from the bottom left. DARN. Its old, it survived 200,000 miles, it was good to me.

I get paid next week so ill buy the new one then, where do you guys think I should buy it from? I was going to purchase from ECS. I have a parts car with 123,000miles but guess what? THE COVER IS CRACKED IN THE SAME PLACE oh boy bmw really thought this one through.

ANNDDDD does anyone have some type of temporary fix.

[dworthy]

Sadly that's what happens to 15+ year old plastics. You can use some resin and fill the hole from the inside, however you are still going to need to replace it IMO.

[Support528]

Yeah even all the nut seals are hard and cracked. Would scare me to put resin on the inside of the cover, if it falls off then I have a even bigger problem.

The one from pelican parts is $500 and ECS has it for $350. ECS also some scratch and dent? its $250 but I don't know if thats new or used. Either way Im replacing it but whats your buying experience from?

[bmwdirtracer]

Every single time I've known a valvecover to crack, it was because someone tightened it down unevenly (like starting at one corner, and tightening the first bolt fully -- you can hear that noise from across the shop, so all the older techs go over to make fun of the new guy.) Of course, trying to reuse hard, compressed rubber seals a second time will cause that, too.

As for replacing it, we always just get one from a salvage yard, about $30 or $40.

[ECSTuning]

As much as I'd love to say buy it from me! I have to agree with Chris, used parts with a guarantee in this application are the way to go for cost-effectiveness.

-James

[Support528]

LOL the new guy doesn't do engine work, he works as head of the lube express service!

To buy a used one, who's to say it won't crack in the same place? Iv seen several with the same crack.

JAMES, I asked a question on ECS website and no response, is the scratch and dent valve cover a BRAND NEW cover with defects or a USED cover with defects? Im curious....

[ptarditi]

I find the biggest issue with these covers is the over-torquing of the bolts. I see techs just run the bolts down to way more then guten-tite. 8-10NM should be enough.

[dworthy]

+1

I have never cracked a valve cover, so just pay attention to how much torque you are putting on it.

[bmwdirtracer]

Me neither, and really, I've never really considered the M-5x or M-6x engines a challenge in this area. I put all the nuts into all the washers, into the new grommets, and onto the studs. Then I run them down from the center outwards, choking up on a short 1/4" drive ratchet....when the nut suddenly stops, so do I. I dunno, it's always seemed obvious to me when to stop, because the nut just stops turning. Almost no torque is actually required, of course, as ptarditi says. But....the nut just stops, quite obviously, to me.

By the way, to correct an earlier statement I made....last week, I heard the telltale "CRACK" from across the shop, and went over to see the carnage. The new guy was using a prybar to remove the old center gaskets, on an M54. Lucky for him, the damage was inconsequential. I introduced him to a heat gun, to make the gasket soft again......

It's strange, my hearing is NOT good, a casualty of race motors right behind my head, rock and roll, and pistols with no ear protection. But that "crack" gets my attention, over any surrounding noises.

[Support528]

Your making it sound like I cracked it. When it started leaking oil onto the headers I replaced the grommet it was leaking from, snugging the bolt up and then going a 1/4 turn, not knowing the torque spec, like I was taught. I usually like to make a couple passes on each bolt, something like, "on, snug, tight, spec" of course some applications you skip steps and go strait to spec.

So Chris, the four valve covers iv seen cracked in the same place are from user error? My main purpose here is where to source a new valve cover from. Im ready to hurt my pockets, I won't if I don't need too.

[bmwdirtracer]

I had no intention of making it sound like you were the one that broke it; after all, the leak began before you got there. But were those 4 broken valvecovers user error? I certainly believe so. I've no reason to think that the M52TU or M54 valvecovers have an inherent flaw.

As for where to get one, salvage yards usually give a warranty , if only for a few months. Sure, you might get a broken one, but most aren't.

ECS stands behind what they sell, as does FCP Euro... and I buy many items, from both.

[Support528]

Hey maybe I did break it, maybe I didn't. All I know is that when I looked for a crack I saw it.

If you had the same situation as me would you buy a used cover over a new cover? Got the money, need the decision. Was just about to buy a new cover when I said hey, let me ask the bros over at the forums first haha.

[bmwdirtracer]

I would absolutely buy a used valve cover, with a warranty, as I've said in several posts above....and as James, from ECS said, too.

Buy the used valvecover, then spend the extra $150 on a Foxwell scan tool from ECS !

[ptarditi]

N52 valve covers are known to crack on their own right below and to the rear side of the valvetronic motor. N54 valve covers seem to crack in the same general area but no valvetronic there. I'd go used also.

[ECSTuning]

JAMES, I asked a question on ECS website and no response, is the scratch and dent valve cover a BRAND NEW cover with defects or a USED cover with defects? Im curious....

Listed as a return from customer due to shipping damage. So should be new stock with damage.