Breaking in a clutch? Broke mine in with burnouts and donuts! still holding, 16 or so events later...
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Breaking in a clutch? Broke mine in with burnouts and donuts! still holding, 16 or so events later...
Keep it simple: half gutted '01 330i, welded diff, BC coils, SLR Super kit
I was gonna put like 30 miles on it and do the event but the exhaust won't be done by this weekend though, so there's no rush at this point. Kinda disappointed, but it is what is is.
With the condor engine risers it's basically impossible to get to the top trans bolts since everything is raised almost an inch, to do it the last time when the clutch was in backwards we had to loosen the nuts on the engine mounts so they were at the top of the stud and hoist the engine so it pivoted backwards but didn't come off the mount, by doing that we could get them but it's really not easy. I'm going with the playing it safe route here since I'm basically sick of working on it for the winter lol.
Other than that the wheels I've waited 9 months for are apparently going to be ready to pick up next week, so I'll have to buy another set of adapters but I'll be test fitting them with the pair that i have now
Wheels finally came but havent been able to test fit them since the car has been waiting for an exhaust for weeks, the tires are so big that I doubt they'll even come close to fitting
but hopefully that changes shortly, the exhaust is basically done...
It sounds much better than I thought it would, pretty loud but not too bad and has a real good tone with the x pipe.
I swapped the rack then drove it like a mile yesterday, it was raining and dark so I didn't want to do too much but hopefully I can finish the last few things and bring it home this week possibly
The car is home, it feels pretty good! I'm having one issue that I need to work through that maybe someone can help. I'm getting an intermittent misfire, I turn the car off and back on and it goes away (most of the time, sometimes not), no ses light or cel. I was going to check all the grounds and the ground straps on the coil packs first, plugs are new bkr6e's that I left pre-gapped, I deleted the pcv system and for now I'm just running a breather filter on the valve cover until I throw my catch can on. Not sure if there's something I'm missing or any suggestions but I'll see if it's something stupid like the grounds first and go from there
Other than that, I bought tires and got them all mounted and threw the wheels on once I got the car home...
I didn't even know that the center bore of the r33 gtr wheels is 66.1 so I'm gonna find a place to drill that out to 73.1 so it fits the adapter perfect, other than that I just need to throw the bumper on
I used to have the exact same misfire problem, would happen whenever I would idle too long - basically whenever I was waiting in line at the track. New coils and different injectors didn’t work, finally fixed the problem and I suggest you do the same - LS swap it lol
I had a similar misfire when I had a S52 too. It was the valve seals letting oil go by and some would get on a plug. Fixed by going JZ :P
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hmm, I'm hoping that wouldn't be the problem. When we were changing the plugs and valve cover gasket before the swap all of the plugs were dry surprisingly. I can pull them back out and see if there's oil getting on them. Thank you for the response, and trust me, I'm happy about the s52 but would be happier with a jz or ls lol
For everyone experienced with welding, how likely is it that there was some damage done to my ecu since the shop welded hangers to the exhaust while it was bolted up to the car still and the battery was still connected? Not sure if that's a possibility that it would make my car act weird like this or if it would have just fried the ecu completely.
Still haven't gotten a chance to check all the grounds or the coil packs/plugs yet, but I'm just brainstorming different scenarios and know that they were welding on the car with the battery connected
I've had tons of welding done on my car, never disconnected the battery, better yet pulled the ECU. Nothing bad has ever happened. Pull your plugs, see if they're wet with oil, and then swap around the coils and see if they follow. You know the drill!
Keep it simple: half gutted '01 330i, welded diff, BC coils, SLR Super kit
My issue is that i don't have an obd2 port in order to connect to the car and check my codes to see if there's a code for a certain cylinder. I have an obd1 chassis with the obd2 swap. I don't have a cel or ses light on either so if anything it would have to be stored code. Probably will pull the plugs this weekend or sometime next week but I just wanted to see if that would be something that would be a possibility or likely problem, I'm hoping its not, the old plugs were all dry and its a new valve cover gasket. I think I can get one of those 20 pin to obd2 plugs and check the codes that way so i'll probably order that off of amazon or something
Last edited by mcfilmwerks; 12-14-2018 at 09:29 AM.
Yea sadly you might have to pony up and order the connector to be able to communicate with the computer. Hard to find a misfire that's coil/ plug related if yo don't know what cylinders are the issue. Does the missing start under load? If so, my gut feeling is that a coil or two has gone bad. The missing happens at first, and then the ecu will kill that injector to prevent further damage, and run on less cylinders. Turning off and on again resets that, until it repeats itself... That's how e46/e90's operate, at least.
Keep it simple: half gutted '01 330i, welded diff, BC coils, SLR Super kit
yeah i ordered one off on amazon and I have that carly for bmw app on my phone with a bluetooth connect from when i had my e92 m3 so im going to try and get that to work, should be here Sunday. it usually happens after idling, like if I let the car warm up or sitting at a stop light. Had to deal with this crap when my throttle actuators went bad on the m3. The one thing that's throwing me off is when I took the car for the first drive, before bringing it to the shop for the exhaust, there wasn't a miss. Although that drive was only a few miles, but the miss started the first drive after finishing the exhaust. Who knows, I'll look it over this weekend and see what happens
It is possible. I always at minimum disconnect the battery and 75% of the time pull the ECU before welding. I've read a lot of it has to do with where they place the ground clamp in relation to where the welding is happening as well, but no idea how true that is.
Just cut a plug off a car in the junkyard. All it’s gonna say is a misfiring cylinder anyways.
Got a whole set of coils coming from a buddy since had a ton laying around. Hooked up to the car, looks like I got p1145, p0300, p0301, p0305, and I think this one is irrelevant but p0500 since I dont really care much about speed sensors or whatever triggers this.
I don't know much about these codes but it seems like the p1145 could be causing the p0300 which is a "random intermittent misfire", which is also throwing the cylinder 1 and 5 misfire. There's not much about the p1145 that is clear to me, code says it's a solenoid valve, can anyone shed some light on that? Seems like it's something to do with the fuel system. Will probably start there and see if that fixes it, then move down the line. I have a breather filter on the crankcase vent and someone on a thread I read said that can possibly cause a misfire issue also. Will have to throw the catch can I got on since i've been lazy, I was just going to vent that to the atmosphere but maybe I'll use one of the ports in my bimmerworld intake elbow to draw vacuum so it's close to the normal pcv setup.
I cleared the codes so I'll take it for another drive this week and see what comes back
I still haven't touched this thing yet and my buddy hasnt sent the coil packs which I reminded him today so hopefully that happens this week.
I'm sure this isn't right but I'm pretty stupid so im gonna ask anyway... I had those misfire codes in cylinder 1 and 5, I swapped the coils around and now it's just missing all the time, no codes for misfire (but I also haven't driven it more than a 10th of a mile since), it just doesnt feel like the coil pack is "seating" on the plug. usually you can feel that is at least over the plug but I can really tell and it seems like I can kind of move the coil pack around before I bolt it back in. does this sound right?
Hopefully the new coils get here by next week so I can swap them out. Need to get this finished by March 30th for opening moves at e town so I guess I should start working the bugs out
had p0500 code, swapped with a coil pack I got from my buddy that came yesterday - doesn't seem to be missing anymore which is good.
At this point it's just "sluggish" like it pulls through the rev range but I know it's not right, I still have that p1145 code which keeps pointing me at that 3/2 valve or fuel control valve or whatever you want to call it. About to try and find someone parting out a car and snag theirs because they're listed for a lot online (300-500), but realoem and another thread I read said the dealers sell them for like 120 with a fpr in it. From all that I've read it controls the fuel feed and return and obviously it seems to be feeding so I'm unsure if maybe it's not returning right and maybe flooding or something?
For some reason the other doubt I have would be a vacuum leak since we just winged the m50 manifold swap but we were pretty confident that everything was buttoned up. I'm ready to be done working on this thing lol
amazon sells a cheap* (like 100) smoke tester for finding vac leaks, its an extremely valuable tool to have around.
Well after all of that the twist connector for the coil packs was loose so i guess it wasn't making complete contact, i don't really know how since I drove it multiple times before bringing it to the shop for the exhaust with no issue at all, twisted it back in and we're good to go.
I'm not even going to pay the p1145 code any attention at this point since it seems to be running fine. Fan isn't coming on again so I have a new fan switch coming in today and I'm going to test the relay, if it's not the switch then I may just keep the one I bought as an extra since I already had one go bad.
I'm supposed to be picking up a hard top on Sunday which is pretty exciting, it's silver so it may be a little before I get it on since I'm going to get it painted white first. Other than that I put the bumper back on and it's pretty much almost ready to go. The weather is finally turning so I'm hoping to get some miles on it before opening moves next weekend and if I'm comfortable I'll be driving
Great to hear it got sorted! Also- Hard top will be sweet. I'm not making opening moves, but I'll probably be hitting more than the measly 1 CL event than I did last year.
Do you street drive this? Every think about a manual fan switch, just watch the temps and run it as needed?
Keep it simple: half gutted '01 330i, welded diff, BC coils, SLR Super kit
I do, not often but enough. I was actually thinking that, some of my drag race friends were telling me about this other type of switch that they use from jegs which, if I understood them correctly, you can set the temp that you want the switch to turn on yourself so it's adjustable, I'll have to take a look into it if that's what it actually is. I'm just nervous that with a manual switch I'd forget to turn it on and cook the engine
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