So got an alignment for the clinic which was cancelled and pushed to this weekend and I can't even make it so it's looking like I'll be waiting until the 31st for Opening Moves. After the alignment it feels pretty dialed tho, the z3 rack is like a whole new world, small inputs with the wheel now feels like a half a turn with the regular e36 rack in. Just have to mess with the damping on the bc's, it's a bit bouncy but a good bit more comfortable than my fortune auto's I took off, we'll see how they compare at the track tho.
Since I have like 2.5 weeks I'm gonna try and get my catback and rk tunes chip in. Had some ews issues but it seems like it shouldn't be too hard bypass that, so I'll try and get that done. The catback has broken studs in it so I just have to drill them out but the stock catback has to go
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With so many things changing it's hard to tell what's effecting what, but I can say that everything just feels tighter and more responsive
So never updated this, everything went well for the most part at the first event. Lots of rubbing up front but nothing too bad.
I kept spinning on entry until I got used to everything. I was so used to the wheel spinning so much on initiation that I would let it over rotate for the first few runs. The difference of the knuckles paired with the rack is huge. And of course someone spilled oil along the whole track as well so that didn't help things either. Although there were too many people it was still a good time.
Clubloose is having another clinic this sunday so I signed up for it since I won't be around for saturday spring moves, should be able to get a lot more seat time and hopefully learn a bit more since I finally went ahead and threw my passenger seat in
and some shots from opening moves
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Oh and also got the catback I bought from a fb group on and what a pita, the one I ended up getting was a manzo aa rep that I guess usually only comes as a full midpipe and catback so of course nothing fit so I had to pay a shop to make it work with the stock mid section. would have been better off just buying something new by the end of it, but you live and you learn
Finally got my hands on an m3 rear bumper, it's dirty but so is the whole car so maybe I'll wash it this weekend, all I need is to paint the skirts i have laying around and I'll be happy
I've been sitting on this chip from rk tunes for like a year since I traded some of the parts from my m3 to an employee there in exchange for the chip and cash on top, originally I didn't know about the ews bypass that needs to be done so I threw it on, and it was a no go obviously so I took the chip out and just let it sit. After looking into it more i found that my car is obd1 with the ews2 system so from what I read I needed to take the glovebox out, unplug the ews plug and splice together the two bigger wires that go into the module, so i did that...
and still no luck, it would crank but not start. Put the stock chip back in and it starts right up, no problems. So because of that, I assumed the wires that are spliced together have to be correct or else the ews module would stop the car from starting even with the stock chip in since at that point it would notice that there's an issue with the ews2 system, or am I wrong in thinking that?
Is there anyone out there that's done this that could point something out that I did wrong? I'm in contact with an employee at RK who is going to talk to Jordan but I figured I would see if anyone can give me some help in the mean time
Oh man... I forget. I had to talk to Jordan about it. I wound up splicing wires in the round connector in the engine bay. But I forget which ones.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/ar...t-1846669.html
hmm, does this ring any bells protomor? The only thing about that is, I thought the green wire was power so snipping that wouldn't help? Haven't heard back from Jordan yet so still playing the waiting game.
received_10102480564371067.jpeg
No. This is the connector that sits in your OBD1 engine bay for the diag to connect to. It's normally capped off. I looked through my chat with Jordan and this is the pic I sent him. Don't ask about the wire nut thingy, that was the PO. I think you cut some wires and connect red to something else. Sorry it's not much to go on.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
Ok, this is gonna sound really stupid, but I figured I would throw an update on this. After talking to a couple friends they said the chip may be in backwards, i doubt it but at this point without getting a response from rk I may as well try it (given it won't hurt anything). I put the dimple on the rk chip on the same side as the dimple on the stock chip so i don't think this is the case but may we well try
Aside from that, got some m3 twist skirts for cheap from a guy parting out a wrecked m3 so thats pretty much all the body pieces ive wanted for now, in this photo it's just mocked up but gonna mount them this week
lol It could happen... report back!
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
So I’m not stupid, had to cut pin 7 on the x20 connector and it fired right up. A bit of a headache but if anyone is trying to put an ews2 delete chip in their obd1 car splice the two larger wires on the ews module under the dash behind the glove box then peel back the boot on the x20 connect and either push pin 7 out or just cut the green wire. Time to send the chip back to rk to add the burble back on
lul. You'd figure this stuff would be more documented. At least it's done now. Maybe a future person on this thread is thanking you.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
exactly! and there's this whole "Official EWS Bypass" thread and not once in there does it mention doing what I had to do. I started a random thread in the general section and posted what I had to do in case anyone runs across the same issue but regardless, the car just feels so much better, im very happy with the tune and will see if there's any changes on Saturday for an event out here. Probably gonna rip the chip back out and send to RK to add the burble back on once Monday comes around
Finally got everything on so im pretty happy with how it's looking for now
my xt7's and schnitzers should have been here a month ago and the company bringing them in made a post saying it's gonna be another month and a half. I'm rather bummed since ive been waiting for the schnitzers since december and the xt7's since february. I just hope they look how I want and i'll be happy lol
as for actual drifting, I ran schools out moves at club loose earlier in may and it was alright. It rained bad the days previous so it was a mud pit, tons of people, and inconsistent track feel. You'd be going around a turn with a ton of grip and then one section was horribly slick. By the end of the day it was better but it threw me off regardless
How I was looking by the end of the day, and I didn't even go off track once...
I skipped on driving east coast bash since obviously that's the biggest event and didn't wanna pay to sit on grid waiting all day but i guess for this event they capped the classes which made it better from what I heard, then everyone staying at the track went swimming from the heavy rain saturday night, was happy i sat it out.
Next event is at the end of june so I hope to get the camber arms on, toe brackets modified, front end adjusted so I can get that 7 degrees caster, and then a realignment.
I've toyed with the idea of a turbo/jz swap but I don't think this is the chassis I want for that, so in the mean time I figured I would try and get as much bolt on power out of this as possible.Was thinking throwing m3 cams in and possibly headers. Anyone have any experience with this stuff and can share if it's worth it or not?
Last edited by mcfilmwerks; 06-01-2018 at 09:44 AM.
Been slacking a ton on this thing, after the last event something was happening where when the car is in neutral and coasting to a stop something would be hitting the shifter linkage or something, almost like something is slapping the shifter. In gear it's fine, only happens when in neutral and moving. Going to take it to a shop to check it out since I don't really care to mess with it, I'm hoping it's either the shifter needing a rebuild or a guibo, if anything I'll pick up a dssr for this thing.
Aside from that fsteve was nice enough to sell me his modified toe brackets, so once I figure the shifter out I'm gonna throw the camber arms and toe brackets on and get the car aligned again and it should be good to go suspension wise for a while
trans mounts are oem. haven't really looked at them to see the condition theyre in. Shifter is a cliq tuning short shifter.
It's funny you say that though, because I drove the car yesterday since it sat for so long and it didnt happen, gonna take it out again this weekend and see. Also, still gotta email you for that filter
Just got back from vacation so my wallet has been hurting but I"ll message you when I get that all figured out!
Aside from that, idk wtf happened but this is what I got going on underneath...
and a close up of the guibo, that thing was toast
It looks like the guibo started to self destruct and somehow caused the heat shield to fall down on the driveshaft. Guibo was probably knocking around the heat shield which was hitting the shifter making the noise I was hearing
Last edited by mcfilmwerks; 07-11-2018 at 03:44 PM.
So removed the heat shield, new guibo, and new rear wheel bearing, picked it up and drove right to the track for a friday night event.
Took like 4 laps and the tires were already shot, which was weird. They're kendas I used at my last event but still had some meat on them before I had to flip them so I pulled off and both of them were corded, I'm like wtf, put the wheel on the hub and my alignment went nuts and trailing arms decided to toe themselves in as much as possible. I take the wheels to flip the tires, a buddy loosens the trailing arm and just pulls it all the way out that he could, maybe slight toe out but still looks good, go back out on track and this thing is ripping, lots of grip, probably the best it's ever felt.
I do a couple laps, I look down and the temps are up to almost the 3/4 mark. So i do a cool down lap, pull around to grid off to the side, pop the hood and my electric fan isnt working (wired to be on while the car is on), try a new relay with no luck, so we jump the relay and it's on. At this point it's still overheating when it sits but cools down when moving. I kept it cool and still got some runs in. Going to replace the radiator fan switch and see if that gets the fan working, and probably flush the coolant. If that's no good just gonna make the jump to an aluminum rad and be done with it.
Overall super fun event but would have been better if my car wanted to cooperate lol. I'm thinking about wiring in a coolant temp gauge so I can monitor it better than the stock gauge in the cluster but we'll see
weird, usually more toe in = more grip. I run mine maxed out in on the adjustment slots and offset rtabs installed backwards for 3/4" total toe in.
im not even sure, i hadnt driven/drifted the car since early may then the alignment was nuts when I first got out so it was probably more mental than anything but it felt good so ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Luckily fsteve from on here sold me his modified toe brackets and I've had camber arms sitting in my garage so I just need to stop being lazy and throw everything on and get it realigned
80/88 fan switch fixed the overheating issue
Wheels from the importer are stuck in limbo so who knows when they'll ever be here. But aside from that ran a friday night event last weekend and it was alright, way too hot here so it was whatever. Throwing the camber arms and toe brackets in this weekend, I messed up one of the offset bushings in the front so I'm going to fix that get my caster up to 7 degrees and get an alignment so I can get rid of this camber.
I look better sitting on grid than I do drifting so I may as well make this a stancey car at this point lol
Decided to try some westlake sa07's out for an event in a week and a half to see what they're all about, no problem with the kendas ive been running but figured I would try something different and the pair in my size was 89 bucks shipped.
Last edited by mcfilmwerks; 08-16-2018 at 07:20 AM.
Hey man, what class were you driving? I didn't actually see your car out there, but I was hanging with buddies most of the time I wasn't driving so I might just have not noticed you around.
89 shipped for a pair? What size are you running, that's some great pricing!
On a side note, it was my first CL event... front course is done in a flash, but it's got a great flow to it.
Keep it simple: half gutted '01 330i, welded diff, BC coils, SLR Super kit
C still, i was hanging around, I was walking up to the tire machines to swap tires as you were getting in your car and driving away. I run 205/40/17's, simpletire had some good pricing so I just went with it. You should be happy you drove front since back track is a bunch shorter
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