Rear washer fluid works but not front

[frizzle]

Hey all, new to the forum after picking up a '99 540iT. I noticed that the washer fluid works for the rear without any issue but not at all for the front. I tried refilling the reservoir thinking it may be low but didn't make a difference. Does the touring have separate pumps for front and rear?

Car is currently at the shop getting the CV done. Want to know if this is something I can tackle or something I should have my indy guy do whi,e he is working on the car anyhow. I had a similar probably on my A8L but that was because a mechanic forgot to reattach a line and it was buried in the bumper.

Thanks in advance.

[djb2]

The e39 has up to four washer pumps.

One is on the intensive fluid reservoir that is visible in the engine compartment. The other two or three are on the main washer fluid reservoir hidden behind the right wheel well liner.

There are separate pumps for the front windshield, rear window, and headlights (if equipped).

Two fluid lines (one regular, one intensive) run from the pumps to the windshield nozzles. Each nozzle assembly has two inlets, each inlet with its own internal check valve.

It's common for the windshield hoses to become brittle directly above the exhaust manifold from the heat, while the protected ends remain flexible. It's easily replaced by 1/4" black poly irrigation tubing. Heat the hose ends in near-boiling water remove and replace.

It's also common for the headlight washer tubing to become brittle. It might be from the headlight/foglight heat, but it's less clear that's the source of the problem. It's 10mm ID, 1mm wall thickness. White 3/8" poly tubing isn't an exact match, but will work as a replacement.

[frizzle]

The e39 has up to four washer pumps.

One is on the intensive fluid reservoir that is visible in the engine compartment. The other two or three are on the main washer fluid reservoir hidden behind the right wheel well liner.

There are separate pumps for the front windshield, rear window, and headlights (if equipped).

Two fluid lines (one regular, one intensive) run from the pumps to the windshield nozzles. Each nozzle assembly has two inlets, each inlet with its own internal check valve.

It's common for the windshield hoses to become brittle directly above the exhaust manifold from the heat, while the protected ends remain flexible. It's easily replaced by 1/4" black poly irrigation tubing. Heat the hose ends in near-boiling water remove and replace.

It's also common for the headlight washer tubing to become brittle. It might be from the headlight/foglight heat, but it's less clear that's the source of the problem. It's 10mm ID, 1mm wall thickness. White 3/8" poly tubing isn't an exact match, but will work as a replacement.

Thanks djb2.

I have ordered a couple of sets of tubing and will give those a go as an initial step to see if that solves the problem. Will tackle that when I get the car back this weekend.

[sienayr]

It's probably the pump. Do you hear the pump run when you pull the stalk? If not, it's the pump. I have had to replace both of mine, front and rear. The pumps are cheap, I recommend ordering two and replacing both at the same time.

[geargrinder]

The e39 has up to four washer pumps.

One is on the intensive fluid reservoir that is visible in the engine compartment. The other two or three are on the main washer fluid reservoir hidden behind the right wheel well liner.

There are separate pumps for the front windshield, rear window, and headlights (if equipped).

Two fluid lines (one regular, one intensive) run from the pumps to the windshield nozzles. Each nozzle assembly has two inlets, each inlet with its own internal check valve.

It's common for the windshield hoses to become brittle directly above the exhaust manifold from the heat, while the protected ends remain flexible. It's easily replaced by 1/4" black poly irrigation tubing. Heat the hose ends in near-boiling water remove and replace.

It's also common for the headlight washer tubing to become brittle. It might be from the headlight/foglight heat, but it's less clear that's the source of the problem. It's 10mm ID, 1mm wall thickness. White 3/8" poly tubing isn't an exact match, but will work as a replacement.

Great post as usual, only one thing to add.

Those pumps can and will go bad. Good news is they are SUPER standardized... I have 4 in my E39 and 2 in my E46 so I always keep a spare on the shelf. Easy fix. They also have little filters in the grommets that hold them, the grommets can start to harden and leak with age, and 'disturbing the force' by pulling one for the first time in almost 20 years sometimes incites the leak, so, might consider getting a new one of those if you swap the pump. Because the pumps are standard also you can do a quick swapperoo of the connectors to confirm that the pump is dead doornails BTW.

- - - Updated - - -

It's probably the pump. Do you hear the pump run when you pull the stalk? If not, it's the pump. I have had to replace both of mine, front and rear. The pumps are cheap, I recommend ordering two and replacing both at the same time.

Oops sorta said same thing... read ahead, GG...

[StephenVA]

Washer pump PN http://www.realoem.com
washer pump fits everything!
winshield, intensive, rear window all the same pump.....
67128362154

WASH PUMP

From:11/01/1997To:-Weight:0.100 kgPrice:$42.75Supersedes:

67120154873(01/01/2003 — 12/14/2006)
Part 67128362154 was found on the following vehicles:

• 1' E81   (02/2006 — 12/2011)
• 1' E87   (02/2003 — 02/2007)
• 1' E87 LCI   (01/2006 — 06/2011)
• 3' E36   (11/1989 — 08/2000)
• 3' E46   (04/1997 — 08/2006)
• 3' E91   (02/2004 — 08/2008)
• 3' E91 LCI   (07/2007 — 05/2012)
• 5' E39   (02/1995 — 12/2003)
• 5' E60   (12/2001 — 06/2007)
• 5' E61   (10/2002 — 02/2007)
• 5' E61 LCI   (11/2005 — 05/2010)
• 5' F11   (01/2009 — 06/2013)
• 5' F11 LCI   (08/2012 — 10/2016)
• 7' E38   (07/1993 — 07/2001)
• 7' E65   (02/2000 — 07/2008)
• 7' E66   (06/2000 — 07/2008)
• 7' E67   (10/2002 — 06/2008)
• X3 E83   (01/2003 — 07/2006)
• X3 E83 LCI   (02/2006 — 08/2010)
• X3 F25   (06/2009 — 11/2016)
• X4 F26   (05/2013 — 11/2016)
• X5 E53   (10/1998 — 09/2006)
• Z3 E36   (12/1994 — 06/2002)
• Z4 E85   (01/2002 — 08/2008)
• Z4 E86   (10/2005 — 08/2008)
• Z8 E52   (12/1998 — 07/2003)

[geargrinder]

The generic Continental / VDO / Siemens for < $20 works great BTW. I see there's a Febi that's under $10 too... I go w/ the Conti/VDO's myself.

[StephenVA]

+1

[djb2]

Three of the pumps are the generic type, with a hose barb for the fluid connection.

If you have the headlight cleaning system, that fourth pump is part 67-12-8-377-430. The only obvious difference is that it has a large quick connect instead of a hose barb. More subtly the electrical connector is keyed differently. There must be something else that motivates a unique part.

[StephenVA]

On the h/L washers it is volume vs pressure difference. Big fat hose with a big pump to drive the fluid. Worse BMW idea yet for nice cars as it dumps 100cc out each nozzle out on to the front end and hood on any hot hot day. Besides those who drive in the Rust Belt. Anyone else ever want it to turn on? I pulled the electrical connector on mine at the pump to resolve it ever cycling on. It was one of those items that should be deleted at ordering time many years ago.

[djb2]

Ahh, that makes sense. I tried to measure the current draw of my spare running dry, and it sounded as if would blow up at 6V / 2A. I then tried to run it wet with no backpressure, and the current went up dramatically limiting my test to 4V. I'll have to get my system sealed properly so that I can test the current draw on the installed system.

The reason I have a spare is that the original pump wasn't running. When I went to replace it, I found that the pump itself was fine. I wonder if an earlier owner cut a wire or pulled a fuse to keep it from wasting fluid.

[geargrinder]

Besides those who drive in the Rust Belt

Yeah but for some of us in the Snow / Salt Belt, it gets tedious receiving lectures and rants again and again from d-bags in AZ or FL or TX who insist the system has absolutely zero use to anyone ever and is completely stupid and never does anything (not saying that's you, just sayin' I bin through that topic from ranting whacko nozzle-haters even more times than "how does this M sticker look on my plain not-at-all-an-M car" threads).

It is REALLY good for those few times you need it in-season if you live in the place where you need that sort of thing.

What I will grant for sure is, I don't like the lack of control of it on/off... the fact that always if your lights are on and you double-spritz your window, it comes on? Yes, annoying. Seems to be a sorta German / Euro standard tho, the Audis work the same way. But Id rather have either a dedicated button for it, or a way to turn off the activation so those times when you just want a second window spritz, you don't get the light blasters. Wonder if there's some coding options regarding how it activates? Maybe I'll look into that.

[StephenVA]

Driving in salt spray and ice build up is exactly why the system was designed. Those up in the frozen north need it functional on any daily driver. Here in the mid Atlantic we should have it working too as it is 25degrees and my street looks like Maine!
good luck everyone and drive safe, fast , but safe.