I'd have to go back and look. I'm pretty sure I'm toed in like 1.1*, and have around 2.6 degrees of camber I think. I'm not crazy low, nothing like you, but I like having the shoulders of the tire tucked a bit. I'd be lower in the front but I'd have to greatly limit my angle, so monster truck it is!
Keep it simple: half gutted '01 330i, welded diff, BC coils, SLR Super kit
Yeah, once I get some more angle stuff I will end up cutting stuff to stay low and have decent angle. Got all the solid Condor Speed bushings installed tonight, still need an alignment but the car feels so much better already. Does seem like I need to take some damping out of the rear shocks, the soft/blown out rubber must have soaked a lot of small movements up haha. Put the stock 2.90 diff back in, wont be nearly as much fun around town but I have some traveling to do this winter and want to take the e36. Anyone near my ride height have suggestions on rear toe settings?
the E36/e46 use the same RTABs, ill be doing these in my E46 this winter.
https://nerptech.bigcartel.com/produ...inserts-rtab-s
Grabbed this today while at work, I love the way this car looks
Car looks great man
What's your rear spring rate/size?
is the upper arm hitting the chassis?
sigh I want my car to be this low without issues.
instagram @andyitslit
Thanks man! I am on Broadway Static Fortune 500 coils, 18k rear/16k front. The rear springs are 4", I still have the adjuster in but I pulled one of the adjustment collars and have the one remaining all the way down. No signs of the upper arm hitting the body, joys of nice stiff spring rates haha.
Do they allow for any adjustment- beyond just sliding in the bracket holes? I guess I'm not sure how I'd adjust them at all. I guess I really just need to ball out and get some lower arms and see what the heck happens on the rack at my height. How much djustment does the factory adjustment on the e46 have? I'm not even sure...
Keep it simple: half gutted '01 330i, welded diff, BC coils, SLR Super kit
I had modded trailing arm brackets built and I have a ton of adjustment, went from almost an inch of toe out to just a touch of toe in and still have more spacers I can move to get more toe in. You should have a bit of adjustment from the factory, unless your stupid low and running almost no camber just the offset bushings should be more than enough to get you back to good alignment numbers
Last edited by cody2130; 11-08-2018 at 12:34 PM.
not much. Just the 3 slotted holes where the rtab mount bolts to the body
On the hunt for some parts this winter, if anyone has a 326power style wing, full body kit or a chassis mount shifter setup please pm me so I can buy them haha. Scored this Grip Royal wood grain steering wheel from a buddy, it has a couple cracks that I am fixing but for $20 how could I say no?
cliq runs some good promo for black friday if you're gonna be ready to purchase. I think last year it was like 25-30 percent off so may be worth it to pick up their shifter and kit if you like them and have some money to play with by next week. I have the shifter and it was for some odd reason, super notchy when I had it mated to the getrag without a dssr and super worn bushings. Now with the zf and a garagistic dssr it feels so buttery and smooth, really happy with the whole setup
I am hunting for a local m52 and a ZF to rebuild, possibly for boost so I will make sure I grab a DSSR and I was going to do solid bushings on everything before I install it. I got a very nice sponsorship offer from Cliq so its like 99% sure I am going to do their kit, short throw and a couple other choice parts.
with the garagistic dssr and the cliq tuning shifter I had to actually grind the little eyelet thing on the shifter in order to be able to fit it in between the end of the dssr. Just a heads up if you go with that one. I heard it was an issue with some of the dssr's with aftermarket shifters. Really wasnt bad at all and was super mininmal, like a millimeter
I was going to do condor or garagistic, not 100% sure yet, I have had really good luck with both in the past. Steering wheel hub will be here around lunch so I will probably go home and snag that on my lunch break and throw the new wheel on. Ended up having to order new rear tires, apparently at almost an inch of rear toe tires dont last nearly as long haha. So those should be here sometime next week, going to get them mounted up and re-align the car again. I still need to trade my 3.91 diff for like a 3.15, the 2.90 sucks if your in the wrong gear and the 3.91 is a bit...much for a daily haha
So I finally talked a friend with a good camera to grab some better pictures, here are a couple I like
Been working on getting a spare M52 engine to start a very mild build on along with a zf transmission, the loose plan at the moment is to throw some headstuds and a better headgasket on along with new rings and bearings then put a relatively small turbo on. The goals are to make 350 whp on pump gas and make it dalily-able. Other than that I am working on getting some aero and a couple other small things over the winter.
You just need to get yourself a trans with overdrive like an e46 6-speed from a zhp or an m3. Then those 3.91’s will be fine. Car looks good man. Those wheels look absolutely huge but they fit so nice.
Shifter linkage, custom driveshaft, maybe a clutch depending which trans you get. May need a flywheel if you get the m3 trans. Good time to swap in a nice single-mass chromoly flywheel anyways. And I’m sure the trans cross brace will need to be modified.
The smg is just a regular manual that uses hydraulic actuators to control the shifting, but the selector rod doesn’t have anything to hold the shifter in the 3-4 gate like a normal manual. The shifter will just flop around, and it’s pretty much impossible to select the proper gear if you were to try to shift it normally. Requires a regular manual selector rod and either the matching bell housing or someone to mill the bell housing to fit the springs (detent pins) that hold the shifter in the 3-4 gate.
Last edited by Liquidity; 11-19-2018 at 11:36 PM.
I've considered the 6 speed route, but I can't justify it for the cost. Also, make sure you look at aftermarket clutches for the zhp 6 speed. I seem to remember that there aren't many options for it, so if you ever want to add power, it might be hard to find flywheel/ clutch.
Keep it simple: half gutted '01 330i, welded diff, BC coils, SLR Super kit
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