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Thread: 2002 540i Oil Separator? CCV? help with cloud of smoke issue. Video

  1. #76
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    Thanks again guys. Well I went with the Motul 6100 BMW LL-01. Fully Synthetic. 5w30.

    Don't wanna stress a lot about this, will probably do this first change sooner anyways. Got 6 liters of coolant fluid and 1 liter of ps fluid.



    On other unrelated news, there's a 1995 convertible SL 500 on the shop. A few pictures on how Mercedes made their vert top works, full of hydraulics. It feels like they made this deliberately complicated, lol! Mechanic just wants to die right now.

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    Always a decent idea to do a first oil change early after a motor has been torn down.
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  3. #78
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    Finally found the oil for the transmission, went with the Valvoline Max Atf, 9 Quarts. Got them for a good price, also got a dexron 3 for the Ps. One more thing, had the headlights refurbished, look like new. New adjusters installed, smd led rings too. Looks great, hope the car is ready by next Friday.



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    So they fired up the engine today. Started knocking immediately and we shutted it down. Mechanic removed both valve covers and he thinks that only one side is getting lubrication. The engine was lubricating fine before, despite all the sludge, that was not an issue. Any ideas from where we should start troubleshooting this ?

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    Did he spin the engine over for a while with the fuel pump fuse out and spark plugs plugs out first before actually trying to start?

    Normally you do that for a handful of seconds until the rattling stops. That 'gently' pumps up the lifters and the cam chain tensioner.

    If you do that, it should start up nice and quiet. If you don't, it will indeed rattle for a minute or so while everything pumps back up again full of oil. Especially given how dry your engine was (i.e. bone dry compared to a 'normal' guide job...)

    If they didn't, and only started for a second or two, then indeed one head will look like it got oil only on one side because (duh ) you poured 8-9L of oil down into one head to fill the engine, so that one got totally 'douched' with oil, but the other side got none.

    If they didn't in fact do that, then, its probably no harm and they can still do that procedure... As long as all is well then the rattling should go away after 10-20 seconds or so? Again you're going to be on the longer side of things from a normal guide job.
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    Thanks, I wasn`t there, but I`m 90% sure they haven`t done this. Gonna ask them to check this tomorrow morning. I was concerned that a connector might have been mismatched, but what you just said makes a lot more sense. Thanks Gear, will let you know the results.

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    They did as you told and the engine is running smooth now Gear, thanks man! And now we are facing a different problem, The Cats are clogged, or at least seem like. They get almost glowing red after a relatively short time and considering how the car was running before, its no surprise the cats are affected.

    What are my options for clogged cats? I surely don`t wanna replace them with new ones. Don`t wanna leave them like that either.

    Can I just remove/break the comb inside them ? Will this affect the car performance or just the emissions control? My city doesn`t perform emissions test.

    Is there a way to bypass/erase the CEL (it will probably pop after removing the cats) via software? Have acess to Inpa /SSS/ BMW Scanner.

    damn, this never ends...
    Last edited by FredRC; 02-03-2018 at 05:27 PM.

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  9. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1999 540i m View Post
    Which cats pre or post?
    The ones closer to the Y Resonator. I mean the 02 sensors post them

  10. #85
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    Great news on the motor running well. Agree clogged cats unsurprising.

    It probably only has one set of cats? And probably doesn't have 2 sets of O2?

    Fred if you have no O2 sensors after the cats you won't get an error. If you do, then either coding, or other tricks required. Like O2 sensor spacers for instance (for the 2nd set, not the first). Other options are aftermarket cats, but that's a costly commitment to keeping clean if it's not legally required.

    And no, clearing the cats out won't have much impact on the engine running. In American slang we call smashing out the cats "hogging them out" (sometimes a smashed out cat is called a "piggy/piggies" or "piggy pipes"). They aren't Exhaust flow optimal - having a big empty chamber that opens up and closes down again is not optimal - but no harm to the motor. Sounds will be slightly louder and more "raw" is the biggest thing. And vs how it probably runs now, itll feel BETTER if they are truly clogged up like that.
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    Quote Originally Posted by geargrinder View Post
    Great news on the motor running well. Agree clogged cats unsurprising.

    It probably only has one set of cats? And probably doesn't have 2 sets of O2?

    Fred if you have no O2 sensors after the cats you won't get an error. If you do, then either coding, or other tricks required. Like O2 sensor spacers for instance (for the 2nd set, not the first). Other options are aftermarket cats, but that's a costly commitment to keeping clean if it's not legally required.

    And no, clearing the cats out won't have much impact on the engine running. In American slang we call smashing out the cats "hogging them out" (sometimes a smashed out cat is called a "piggy/piggies" or "piggy pipes"). They aren't Exhaust flow optimal - having a big empty chamber that opens up and closes down again is not optimal - but no harm to the motor. Sounds will be slightly louder and more "raw" is the biggest thing. And vs how it probably runs now, itll feel BETTER if they are truly clogged up like that.
    I do have a set of O2 sensors after the cats, also there are (what it seems) two smaller cats on the headers, that don`t appear to be clogged but I`d hollow them as well to save the trouble later, if thats not an issue.

    I`ll defintely remove the cats then and try to deal with it using a O2 Spacer, if I can`t deactivate it through software. Now that you confirmed that should be no performance issues I feel more confident to do that. Do you recommend removing them completely and putting a straight pipe or just hollow them and leave it there?

    thats a picture of my exhaustc5709687da9a414097b84fd2bdb93364.jpg

  12. #87
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    Straight pipe would be better if you can. You can see it's not literally straight but am easy job for a muffler shop anyway. Coding may be practically impossible. Almost nobody knows how to delete the codes on these motors.
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    So we decided to just hollow the cats for now, will put a straight pipe to replace them later.
    Started the car with no exhaust, just headers and headers cats, nice sound. However if felt a little rough, read somewhere that the car takes time to adapt to a catless exhaust. Will post videos later.

    However there's something bugging me, I feel like the engine is a little bit slant to the passenger side, do you guys feel the same? I compared to pictures online and didn't see much difference.

    Don't know maybe I am seeing things. ..




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    Videos of the 540i running with no exhaust.


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    Quote Originally Posted by FredRC View Post
    However there's something bugging me, I feel like the engine is a little bit slant to the passenger side, do you guys feel the same? I compared to pictures online and didn't see much difference.
    KINDA see what you mean... that's the type of thing that's hard to tell in a picture. Did you replace the engine mounts while everything was apart? That probably would have been a good idea. M5 mounts are preferred and priced similarly.
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  16. #91
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    Hey everyone, how is it going?

    Still have the car in the shop, had to order some parts and as I told you they take a long time to arrive. Anyway,

    The car started blinking the oil light, indicating there was low oil pressure, something that didn`t happened before, could it be that all the sludge was building enough pressure to avoid triggering the light?

    So we took out the Oil Pump to check for loose bolts, all bolts were ok. The Oil Pump Piston (#2) on the Diagram. It had melted and damaged the inside, so we removed it and had a new one machined out of aluminum, installed and everything was ok. The Oil Light went off, for a while.

    While the engine is warming up, the oil pressure is there, but then it starts dropping to a third of what it was and the oil light starts blinking again. We had all the upper egine part redone and resealed with brand new gaskets and rings, theres no leak anywhere at all. So the mechanic thinks it might be the Crankshaft and the Bearing Shells. He mentioned he found metal shavings on the Oil when he removed the Oil Pan to access the Oil Pump.

    Is is possible that the Crankshaft and The bearing shells are causing the engine to loose oil pressure? He wants to pull the engine off again and I`d like to be sure that thats its really necessary. What else do you think that cause this? What is the optimal oil pressure reading for the V8?

    Thanks once again

    qq.png

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    Anybody care to chime in? Gonna go there first thing in the morning. Would like to have a little more info on this.

  18. #93
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    Well, well, here we go again.
    After completely assembling the engine, it had some oil pressure issues, something ir didn't have before.
    Engine was running rough, and to be honest I don't think the mechanic did a good job cleaning it. Probably one of the oil paths got obstructed. Decided to open the engine again and check rod bearings. This is how the cylinders liners were..


    So what are my options now? Obviously new pistons and rings. But what about the alusil block? Can it be sleeved? Machined?



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    Quote Originally Posted by philly98540 View Post
    Boat anchor right there. Search for a used replacement.
    Shop tryed to argue that it was already like this when it arrived. Luckily I had picture of the first time that they opened the engine and all the cylinders walls were smooth. Plus, engine was working fine prior this, drove the car for over a month with no oil pressure or overheating issues.
    Bottom line, they are paying for this.
    Cilindro riscado 1.jpg


    However, an used replacement is out of question in Brazil, TOO expensive. Took to a machine shop specialized in sleeving engines and they assured me that it can be done and would match oem specs. A couple of other owners have done the same job and they were satisfied. I know VAC Motorsports perform this job but I can`t ship the block over there. BMW offers larger pistons with +0.25mm and +0.50mm, so It can be done.

    I know that in the US is much easier to dump the whole thing and buy an used one, but what are you opinions on this procedure? Safest route would be to machine the block or go for Sleeving?
    2DB47934.jpg
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    Last edited by FredRC; 05-21-2018 at 11:49 PM.

  21. #96
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    Just catching up here. Bummer.

    Seriously man, this is zero surprise. The way they took that car apart and just scattered the parts on the floor... its actually absolutely consistent and unsurprising that it was a total disaster. The surprise honestly would have been if there wasn't something wrong.

    I know you're in a jam and trying to get them to pay and whatnot, but... I've seen this thing happen tons of times with guys who get in too deep with completely incompetent shop and keep hoping "oh well maybe if they can just get this back together for me one final time..." but it just keeps turning into one disaster after another.

    You really need to never use that shop ever again. Them trying to claim "it was that way", forgetting that you had pictures of the motor apart in the first place... that just shows that they are "bad news".

    I'm not going to read the back pages of this thread but didn't we already outline the story on these blocks? They weren't really designed to be sleeved or bored. They can be bored a bit, and then honed but you need to use a very special honing paste and tools (your shop will probably say "sure sure!" then use normal tools and materials and you'd find yourself in the same predicament). There are sleeving failure stories out there for sure, although maybe one or two 'successes'. I would not recommend it, but at the very least I'd want to know that the shop has real experience sleeving Alusil blocks. That doesn't mean asking "do you have experience w/ alusil block sleeving" and "SURE SURE WE DO!", it means, "tell me about specific motors you have done and give me the phone number of a couple customers driving around with sleeved Alusil blocks." Plenty of machine shops will say "sure sure doesn't matter, sleeving is sleeving, whatever. I think VAC uses flanged sleeves to keep the sleeves dropping?

    But honestly, those bores look so disastrously torn up, the overbore would have to be pretty major... Just imagine how bad you will feel if you dump all the money into boring or sleeving and then reassembling the car, only to find that it fails again?

    Personally, yes I indeed would consider that block a boat anchor.

    Are you sure you can't dig up a used block someplace? And then take it to a different proper decent not-criminally-incompetent shop to be put in? Did any of the M62 block Range Rovers make it to Brazil? You could use one of those, as well as any later E38 740 block (as long as it is a TU in other words).

    I don't know if it might be helpful, but, member jicaino on this board is in Argentina and he also wrestles with the parts-availability/cost problems over there, you might ask if he has any ideas. (I know Argentina is not Brazil and vice versa, but nonetheless the parts sourcing challenge sounds the same, perhaps he has suggestions on sourcing / shipping / etc. tricks that have worked for him...)
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    Gear, you are pretty much right about everything. Unfortunately theres not much I can do now. I`m trying to source a new block, but in the meanwhile I`ll try to sleeve this one with somebody who has previous experience. Got in touch with 2 owners who did this job and have 50.000+ miles on their engines since then.

    It`s my best shot for now, if it doesn`t work, I`ll have them buying a new block for me.

    I need to find new pistons now and I`ve came across 2 types. One with flat top and one with a recessed area. Which ones are the correct type for a m62b44tu? Are they interchangeable? Can the Flat tops be machined to match the recessed ones? Thanks



  23. #98
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    Fred, you need the piston that have the recessed valve pockets. I wouldn't try getting the flat top pistons machined.

  24. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by FredRC View Post
    Gear, you are pretty much right about everything.
    I should put that in my signature eh?

    Quote Originally Posted by FredRC View Post
    Unfortunately theres not much I can do now. I`m trying to source a new block, but in the meanwhile I`ll try to sleeve this one with somebody who has previous experience. Got in touch with 2 owners who did this job and have 50.000+ miles on their engines since then.
    That sucks tremendously man. But hope for the best. Glad you have some good leads, hopefully one of the guys who's had success can point you at his shop. As Jim says - yep you def need the pocketed ones.
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    Fred, you need the piston that have the recessed valve pockets. I wouldn't try getting the flat top pistons machined.
    Thank you once again, Jim and Grinder.

    I`m kinda stuck here now, one of the owners who did this job said that he machined his piston`s heads and it worked fine. It`s been extremely difficult to find pistons with the valve pockets. What are the risks of installing the flat ones? I`m guessing the pockets give cleareance to the valves when the Vanos adjusts.

    What are the risks of machining the pockets? Not enough material?

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