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Thread: 2002 540i Oil Separator? CCV? help with cloud of smoke issue. Video

  1. #51
    geargrinder's Avatar
    geargrinder is offline Having No Trouble Here BMW CCA Member
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    Oh I know how to spell and say cachaça. It’s just that on a PC for us Angloids , getting the cedilla is a pain in the ass. In English web you’ll see it as cachaca because of that. I’m on an iThing this AM and Apple makes alternate characters super easy, so... çççç.
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  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by geargrinder View Post
    Oh I know how to spell and say cachaça. It’s just that on a PC for us Angloids , getting the cedilla is a pain in the ass. In English web you’ll see it as cachaca because of that. I’m on an iThing this AM and Apple makes alternate characters super easy, so... çççç.
    Haha It`s all good buddy, a more common name around here is "Pinga" (peengah), easier to type and say anywhere.


    [Help]
    Do any of you guys know of someone (or store) I can email about the parts ? I usually buy from Ebay, but sellers are taking forever to answer me.
    I`m looking for the complete Gasket set. Crankshaft seal and possibly the Timing Chain guides.
    It needs to accept Paypal and work with me on shipping.

  3. #53
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    [Help]
    Do any of you guys know of someone (or store) I can email about the parts ? I usually buy from Ebay, but sellers are taking forever to answer me.
    I`m looking for the complete Gasket set. Crankshaft seal and possibly the Timing Chain guides.
    It needs to accept Paypal and work with me on shipping.

  4. #54
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    fcpeuro.com
    pelicanparts.com
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    Quote Originally Posted by necsis View Post
    fcpeuro.com
    pelicanparts.com
    ecstuning.com
    Thanks man, I am aware of those but I need a more personal service for filling customs form and what not. I'm already in touch with a couple of guys from smaller stores. Thanks.

    In the mean time l, started the valve covers and the valve covers covers lol


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  6. #56
    geargrinder's Avatar
    geargrinder is offline Having No Trouble Here BMW CCA Member
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    be aware the valve-covers are magnesium - not aluminum - and don't love to take / hold paint. I think there are special primers you can apply after stripping off the factory coating that will help regular paint stick, you might want to look into that (google magnesium preparation primer paint etc.)

    The plastic 'cover-covers' of course, no issue!
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  7. #57
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    Trouble finding the correct Gasket Set

    Ok, so I got in touch with a guy on ebay, he is being very helpful but we are having trouble trying to determine whats the correct Gasket set for me.

    My car is a 540i 03/2002, VIN GG92189.

    Problem is that RealOem numbers are returning 2 different Kits at Victor Heinz. I don`t think this cars have any difference between Euro and US spec right ?

    Which one should I buy ?

  8. #58
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    Sorry forgot the pictures. 1st or 2nd kit ?

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  9. #59
    geargrinder's Avatar
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    The 2 kits are VANOS or Non-VANOS.

    You want the VANOS obviously... so...

    Thats the first one. You can spot the 2 big black VANOS solenoid seals inside the upper left valve cover gasket, plus the 2 VANOS distribution block gaskets on the right.

    Also: (my turn) Victor Reinz, not Heinz. Heinz is for tomato based food condiment products.
    2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
    2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
    2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
    2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)

    Former:

    1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
    1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)


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    Hahaha, fairplay, I bet you were eager for the opportunity. Funny thing is that I was literally looking at the name written on my screen as I was writing the post. Don`t know why, perhaps cause its dinner time around here !!

    Thank you very much for your continuous help, brother !! Gonna order this babies right away !!

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    Quote Originally Posted by geargrinder View Post
    The 2 kits are VANOS or Non-VANOS.

    You want the VANOS obviously... so...

    Thats the first one. You can spot the 2 big black VANOS solenoid seals inside the upper left valve cover gasket, plus the 2 VANOS distribution block gaskets on the right.

    Also: (my turn) Victor Reinz, not Heinz. Heinz is for tomato based food condiment products.
    Gear can you help me choosing the correct head gaskets ? Should I order the one with 1,74mm or the one with extra 0,3mm ? Why is there a difference between the two ?

  12. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by FredRC View Post
    Gear can you help me choosing the correct head gaskets ? Should I order the one with 1,74mm or the one with extra 0,3mm ? Why is there a difference between the two ?
    The thicker gasket is for heads or block that have been 'decked' aka machined down a little bit. The gasket is thicker to take up the metal they machined away so that compression ratio doesn't change. Sometimes guys will use a bigger (or doubled-up) gasket on a normal motor to lower the compression ratio for a turbo (or I suppose if you have really bad octane fuel...) So you should ask your shop for the answer (do they intend to machine anything, otherwise just get the stock thickness...)
    2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
    2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
    2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
    2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)

    Former:

    1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
    1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)


  13. #63
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    Went to the store today to buy the Heads Bolts, they only have one set with 10. Is it absolutely necessary to replace them or they can be reused? Compared a new and an old one and theres no difference in size or thread wear. If I need to order them its gonna make the shipping cost way pricier.

  14. #64
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    Yes.
    Torque to yield bolts are stretched to the max on each application.
    You will have no way to tell if they went "soft" on reuse.
    I find popped bolt heads on used motors, just from heating/cooling expansion cycles.
    Not worth the risk for reuse.

  15. #65
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    Little update, parts arrived. Paid a lot in taxes

    But let's move forward, apparently all the parts are correct, gonna do the valve steam seals and the timing chain guides as well.


    Gonna clean the headers in chemical bath and the block locally. If everything goes well we should start the assembly on Friday and I'll try to take pictures of the whole process



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  17. #67
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    Looks like the whole kit and its kaboodle. Didn't go for the all-in-one Victor Reinz set I see. Should be OK. No secondary timing tensioners or guides?
    2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
    2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
    2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
    2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)

    Former:

    1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
    1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)


  18. #68
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    Well the engine is finally clean, took a while, most of it cleaning the heads, we also took some time to clean the engine bay and some other parts. I intended to take pictures of the whole process but the mechanic assembled the engine in one morning, before I got the chance to get there. Anyway pictures from today and a couple from when we started.

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    Wow those pics at the bottom are from which engine??

  20. #70
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    What's up with that pink PS pump?

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    Quote Originally Posted by bimmer7410 View Post
    Wow those pics at the bottom are from which engine??
    Those are pics from the same engine once we started opening it, before the cleaning procedure. Completely full of sludge.


    What's up with that pink PS pump?
    For Flair.

    Lol jk, its the detergent we used to remove the old oil sludge from the engine bay, it as dirty as it gets. It cleaned up everything really nice, some parts like those shields on the side look brand new. I took the time to do this cleaning as everything its so easily acessible right now. Also did the PS hoses.
    Last edited by FredRC; 01-14-2018 at 08:12 PM.

  22. #72
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    Hard to beleive this is the same engine. You did a good job.

  23. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    Hard to beleive this is the same engine. You did a good job.
    Thanks man, you guys help was really important, it kept me from freaking out. Thanks for all the tips and advice, it made this whole event a lot smoother.

    Engine and transmission are already on the car, radiator is being assembled, we should fire her next week.

    Which oil do you recommend now that the engine is clean ? 5w40 or 5w30 ? I have access to Pentosin, Motul and Valvoline. Same price. Weather here is warm, but not much. Around 30 Celsius.

    As for the transmission oil, the only one available is the Valvoline Max Life Atf. It states that is LT7141 compatible. I'm not sure about it, but there's nowhere else to run.

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  24. #74
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    5w-30 or 40 should be fine.
    As for the tranny, as long as it says it compatible I "guess" it should be OK. I've got a 6 speed so I've never really looked into automatic anything.

  25. #75
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    Are all those motor oils synthetics? Just the brand isn't the thing, the very specific grade product is whats important. From the sludge buildup you have in that engine, I'd use the best most high tech stuff I could possibly find, and change it religiously at short intervals. That's assuming the sludge is from fuel quality combustion byproducts in the crankcase (i'm not 100% convinced its not from running crap oil its whole life but I guess I have to take your word on it that all cars do this down your way...)

    Motul is generally a premium brand, so going just on that I'd lean towards it however if the Motul you have available is some basic product vs a Valvoline that's a high tech full syn...

    Find out the specific products & grades (most people don't realize that a 0W40 and an 20W50 of the 'same product' oil like "Mobil 1" actually can be pretty different formulations...), then look up that specific grades specifications.

    Generally you are looking for the highest "API" grade possible - this will be SL, SM, SN like that (shoot for SN if possible) - and for ideally high-criteria automaker certifications - BMW LL-01, VW 508 509 etc..

    You can BTW go on "bobistheoilguy" to get the full insane OCD oil comparison pros/cons experience. Don't take it too seriously but you might find some useful info there once you determine exactly which Motul/Valvoline/Pentosin oil you have available.

    Re: the ATF - that looks like a full Syn "all the automaker certifications" product so honestly, looks pretty good. Valvoline isn't my first grab ever but that looks like its far from a problematic choice.
    2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
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