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Thread: 2002 540i Oil Separator? CCV? help with cloud of smoke issue. Video

  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by FredRC View Post
    Will consider, he doesn't charge much to change time chain guides tough, will have to think this through...

    As for the metal strips, you mean those silver ones that looks like they are grounding something? So I need to remove the bolts and clean inside too. Think I'll go there tomorrow, any angle you guys would like to see pictures of?

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    Also the Trans was removed from the car and the oil from the pan was removed as well and stored, should I change the oil or just re-use it?

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    Used trans fluid is drained, stored, and then put back in?

    I'm gettin an idea why Brazil motors are full of sludge.

    Not being funny or anythin but seriously - do people change oil regularly on cars down there, or is that considered a waste of time/money?

    I have a friend whos wife feels that way up here and she refuses to have the oil changed (thinks its a 'scam'), and after talking to her for years (to no avail), I could easily see it being something other people get convinced of...
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  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by geargrinder View Post
    Used trans fluid is drained, stored, and then put back in?

    I'm gettin an idea why Brazil motors are full of sludge.

    Not being funny or anythin but seriously - do people change oil regularly on cars down there, or is that considered a waste of time/money?

    I have a friend whos wife feels that way up here and she refuses to have the oil changed (thinks its a 'scam'), and after talking to her for years (to no avail), I could easily see it being something other people get convinced of...
    Lol, I see where you get that, but the Trans oil question is from my part, the mechanic said we MUST change it, but I've read many times that many owners don't recommend doing the change. So it was just me being ignorant about the subject than a common practice around here.

    As for the engine Oil changes, we usually do it every 5-8 thousand kilometers. Very rarely I meet someone, specially in the BMW circle, that neglects this.

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  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by geargrinder View Post
    Just an example, this was the engine of my previous car, a 530i I bought with 100k miles, came like this.

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    Quote Originally Posted by FredRC View Post
    Will consider, he doesn't charge much to change time chain guides tough, will have to think this through...

    As for the metal strips, you mean those silver ones that looks like they are grounding something? So I need to remove the bolts and clean inside too. Think I'll go there tomorrow, any angle you guys would like to see pictures of?

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    The metal strips in your second pic above, they are directly above the cams, 5 nuts hold them on to the cam caps. The nut caps that hold the valve covers on screw into the top of those same studs.

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    Quote Originally Posted by wagons ho View Post
    While that is clean, the color is darker than i would expect for 100k. Color is an indicator of heat.
    Included is a picture of a 180k core that has the ideal gold color on all the aluminum. Just a picture down the hole.
    You mean like this gold color? This was taken at about 56k miles.


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  8. #33
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    If you plan to keep the car, replace the guides. If really pressed due to availability, at least do the center u shaped guide. That one has the highest failure rate.
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  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by philly98540 View Post
    If you plan to keep the car, replace the guides. If really pressed due to availability, at least do the center u shaped guide. That one has the highest failure rate.
    Yeah absolutely... Fred, any chance you know any international travelers going / coming home from abroad who can toss a set of guides in their luggage maybe?
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  10. #35
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    philly98540
    
    If you plan to keep the car, replace the guides. If really pressed due to availability, at least do the center u shaped guide. That one has the highest failure rate.
    Code:
    geargrinder
    Yeah absolutely... Fred, any chance you know any international travelers going / coming home from abroad who can toss a set of guides in their luggage maybe?

    The engine is coming out, too many sludge in lower places. Don`t think I`ll be able to change the guide right now, not even the U Shaped one.
    Don`t know anyone abroad right now that could bring them to me. Is there a way I can inspect them to be sure they can hold at least another 20k miles? I don`t drive much as I do all my work from home and have other cars, in my last 530i I added 13k Miles in 5 years, this car I intend to keep for 2 years. Thanks for the help guys, will post more pics later.

  11. #36
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    Well.

    On the side of not-changing:

    • 73k miles would be short for a timing guide failure generally
    • You say you only need 2 years and 30k miles... OK yep 100k miles total is not usually a problem for guides as long as they haven't been in an abused car/motor
    • You'll have them out for the sludge clean and can inspect them and confirm they look ok (more on that in sec)


    On the side of changing:

    • Heat cycles seem the biggest toll on those guides. We're guessing this car has seen a lot of heat over its miles. Your motor isn't a poster child for what we'd expect to be long-life guides
    • The problem when those are failing is the plastic getting brittle (more than actual wear) Taking them out, handling, reassembling, etc. may damage what were "OK wear-wise" guides and make them more prone to failure sooner than later, if not outright have some bits break off
    • Replacement requires a ton of front end disassembly which you've done already - if they fail afterwards you'll pay to have this torn down to this point AGAIN - basically replicate nearly all the labor to this point and plus a bit more for the reassembly and re-timing. Right now the labor is basically "Free" for you to do the guides.


    On inspection - as mentioned, sure you're looking at the wear but more than that you're really looking for brittling and signs of microcracks appearing. More than the guides wearing through, they start to 'chunk off' parts. Have the mechanics be VERY careful in removing them and cleaning them then look very closely at them all dry and clean and look for signs of tiny cracks starting to appear at corners and along edges. I won't be surprised at all if some of the clips break off during removal. Mostly used guides you can easily snap in your hand due to brittling...
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  12. #37
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    Look at the size of the groove in the guides.
    Here's mine at ~130K when I changed them, could have probably gone another 75K miles however I have the front of the engine apart to powder coat the front covers.
    I have changed my oil every 7500mi since new.

    2014_36.JPG

    The U guide
    2014_44.JPG

    Engine pic at ~130K. I didn't clean anything.

    DSCN9237.JPG

    You should pull the cam to cam tensioners apart and clean them too.

    Dscn1062.jpg
    Last edited by JimLev; 12-08-2017 at 12:26 PM.

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    Thank you so much Gear and Jim, will keep you guys updated, wish me luck (again)

  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by FredRC View Post
    Thank you so much Gear and Jim, will keep you guys updated, wish me luck (again)
    More pictures from today, engine definitely coming out for a complete flush, inpected chain guides, very little wear on them. Gonna have to work for now. I mentioned everything you guys told me and it's being stripped and cleaned.



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  15. #40
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    If you are going to pull the heads off there is another check valve in the block on both sides. It's in the top front corners of the block. Pull it out and make sure it's clean too.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    If you are going to pull the heads off there is another check valve in the block on both sides. It's in the top front corners of the block. Pull it out and make sure it's clean too.
    Ok, when you say headers you mean the Exhaust Manifold or the Cylinder Heads?

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    Updates,

    Whole engine has been removed and going for a chemical bath. Cylinder Heads have been removed as well. Decided to go ahead and order a full set of gaskets and will probably order the chain guides as well. Truly amazing how good this engine was working despite all the gunk inside.

    A few pictures of the "progress"

    Also, to our surprise, part of the block on the drivers side was broken. Right where the transmission connects. Probably somebody miscalculating the weight of the Trans while leaving just one bolt. Luckily didn't crack the block where it matters.

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    Last edited by FredRC; 12-11-2017 at 04:27 PM.

  18. #43
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    Here are the pictures of the broken part of the block and some pictures of the full exhaust for reference.

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  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by FredRC View Post
    Ok, when you say headers you mean the Exhaust Manifold or the Cylinder Heads?
    I said heads, as in cylinder heads.
    Good thing you pulled the engine apart to clean it out.
    I'll post a pic of the check valve location later today.

  20. #45
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    OK then! Get that puppy cleaned up.

    Not exactly encouraged by the removed-part care-and-storage methodology that's evident there...

    I might pile up stuff like serpentine tensioners in a box / pile, but anthing that goes remotely 'inside' like the VANOS solenoids and shutter wheels and cam caps I'd be taking a hell of a lot of better care of. Actually yanking the cams before pulling the heads when you know you're pulling the heads is a bit unusual, hopefully they put the crank at the proper neutral point for cam removal. And I hope they kept track of the bolts - the timing covers only take about 35 bolts for various things and they are all different lengths and if you put the wrong ones in the wrong place you can have bad things happen... kinda looks like a giant pile of bolts and parts just lying on the ground...

    OK OK I'm probably being too USA fussy immaculate, right? Need to be more Brazilian-pragmatic? Where's my Cachaca anyway!? (seriously where is it... I literally have some and haven't seen it in a while... did my damn wife drank all the cachaca again!?)
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  21. #46
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    Fred, more info.
    Here's where the block check valves are located. There's one on each bank. Pull them out and clean them.
    I was going to use your pics but had this old engine in my garage was just a little bit cleaner.

    BlockCV_2.JPG

    The check valves
    Block_CV.JPG

    Behind the fat green o-ring in the pass side head is an orifice with a very small hole in it. Make sure you clean it too.
    Cam_17_o-ring.JPG

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    I'd plug any open oil galleries until the sludge crap is gone, then open them up and clean them good. Blast out with air
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  23. #48
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    geargrinder
    OK then! Get that puppy cleaned up.

    Not exactly encouraged by the removed-part care-and-storage methodology that's evident there...

    I might pile up stuff like serpentine tensioners in a box / pile, but anthing that goes remotely 'inside' like the VANOS solenoids and shutter wheels and cam caps I'd be taking a hell of a lot of better care of. Actually yanking the cams before pulling the heads when you know you're pulling the heads is a bit unusual, hopefully they put the crank at the proper neutral point for cam removal. And I hope they kept track of the bolts - the timing covers only take about 35 bolts for various things and they are all different lengths and if you put the wrong ones in the wrong place you can have bad things happen... kinda looks like a giant pile of bolts and parts just lying on the ground...

    OK OK I'm probably being too USA fussy immaculate, right? Need to be more Brazilian-pragmatic? Where's my Cachaca anyway!? (seriously where is it... I literally have some and haven't seen it in a while... did my damn wife drank all the cachaca again!?)
    Lol you are right, we didn`t expect to remove the heads when the cams were removed, but then again I didn`t expect a lot of things this past week. Iwas also worried about the storing methods, but I`ll trust they know what they are doing, he has assembled and disassembled this engine many times before and seem quite familiar with. The engine will spent a few days on its bath so I`ll get to him to separate and categorize all the bolts and parts. Do a clean build. Oh and it`s spelled Cachaça (Ka-cha-tsa) God forbid you get served the wrong drink from saying its name wrong. Wish I could send you some in exchange for some Timing Chain Guides !

    I said heads, as in cylinder heads.
    Good thing you pulled the engine apart to clean it out.
    I'll post a pic of the check valve location later today.
    Thank you very much my friend, but since the the block and headers are being immersed in the Chemical bath wouldn`t this suffice ? I`ll ask them to check anyway. Thanks.


    philly98540
    I'd plug any open oil galleries until the sludge crap is gone, then open them up and clean them good. Blast out with air
    Oh after all this work you can rest assured that I`ll make them check every single inch of this guy before starting to build, don`t wanna do this ever again.




    I`d like to have this thread as a future reference for someone who might come across the same problem, but I`m really not sure what parts should I take pictures of, so if you guys want any Pictures that may be useful while the engine still out, please let me know.

  24. #49
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    Just saw you pics Jim, very nice, I'll point this to the mechanic, I don't remember seeing those little valves out.


    In the mean time, I decided to refreshen the valve covers, what color should I go for ?
    Was thinking of some lime green or banana yellow.



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  25. #50
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    I'd go with than banana yellow, be different.
    Pull those check valves out before you dip the block!

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