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Thread: Fan Delete and Now Overheating

  1. #1
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    Fan Delete and Now Overheating

    I just did the fan delete, new thermostat, and switch. Now the car is overheating BAD within 1 mile. I took out the new thermostat thinking it was bad but still overheats within a mile. This is happening in 50degF weather. I purged the system several times thinking it was an air pocket. Nothing. Only other thing is the water pump. I may disconnect the hoses to see if coolant is being pumped out. Thoughts?

  2. #2
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    aux fan, is it working? Still too quick to overheat though.
    -Abel

    - E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
    - 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
    - 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
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    - 2016 Mini Cooper S

  3. #3
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    This is probably a witchcraft ritual sort of test, but I squeeze the hoses with the cap on and listen for a loud swishing noise to check for trapped air.

  4. #4
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    You don't have any coolant in the block. If you filled it using a youtube vid, you did it wrong. If you filled it using any instructions that tell you to start the engine before the system is totally full, you did it wrong. Cold engine. Take the upper hose off, and stick it on the thermostat housing pointed up. Use this new point to pour coolant directly into the engine. Keep pouring until coolant runs out of the open radiator neck. Reinstall hose. Finish topping up, squeezing hoses to burp the last bit of air out. Put the cap on, start it up. Note that no where in here did I mention the bleeder; it's a waste of time.


    And NEVER remove the thermostat from the engine. It will cause overheating. The thermostat is not a on/off gate valve, it's a three way directional control.


    /.randy

  5. #5
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    What is weird is the heater doesn't blow any hot air. Also the discharge half of the radiator is cool to the touch but the suction half is extremely hot. I plan on discussing the suction and discharge hoses to see if the pump is pushing any coolant and to see if the radiator is plugged. Everything was great before the delete. If the pump was bad wouldn't the radiator and discharge hose be hot as crap since the hot coolant would be stacking up in the radiator?

    - - - Updated - - -

    rf, just saw your post will try that. Thanks for your knowledge on this.

  6. #6
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    When I make a change, and then the car acts differently, I start by thinking that the new acts are connected to what I just did. If you think it's the water pump, then the logic is that it just happened to go out at the same moment you took the fan off. Possible, but not the first guess. My first thought was that you didn't put in enough coolant. I would start with what rf recommends. And, as long as you have the Tstat out, I'd put in a new one. Unless you know the condition of the water pump and all hoses, I'd replace them all.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by rf900rkw View Post
    You don't have any coolant in the block. If you filled it using a youtube vid, you did it wrong. If you filled it using any instructions that tell you to start the engine before the system is totally full, you did it wrong. Cold engine. Take the upper hose off, and stick it on the thermostat housing pointed up. Use this new point to pour coolant directly into the engine. Keep pouring until coolant runs out of the open radiator neck. Reinstall hose. Finish topping up, squeezing hoses to burp the last bit of air out. Put the cap on, start it up. Note that no where in here did I mention the bleeder; it's a waste of time.


    And NEVER remove the thermostat from the engine. It will cause overheating. The thermostat is not a on/off gate valve, it's a three way directional control.
    Do this with car level? Or nose up 4-6"? Or, doesn't matter?

  8. #8
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    Greg, I've found it doesn't matter as long as it isn't nose down. This filling technique works best on E36 based motors. It will work on yours but you will have to work around the snap connectors.


    No heat is a strong indicator of low coolant. I'm still thinking that you're just low. But there is a chance the water pump impeller shattered from knocking the fan nut loose. I was'nt there, don't know what exactly was done at what forces.

  9. #9
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    Having had the auxiliary fan fail, I can tell you the car does NOT overheat with a fan failure as long as it is moving relatively fast forward. It does overheat quickly at rest. The OP says the car overheated while moving, which says it was not due to the fan.

  10. #10
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    If you would just maintain your coolant system and leave it how it was you would be just fine. What are you trying to accomplish buy messing your coolant system up
    Last edited by BimmerBreaker; 12-03-2017 at 12:23 PM. Reason: language

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by rf900rkw View Post
    Greg, I've found it doesn't matter as long as it isn't nose down. This filling technique works best on E36 based motors. It will work on yours but you will have to work around the snap connectors.


    No heat is a strong indicator of low coolant. I'm still thinking that you're just low. But there is a chance the water pump impeller shattered from knocking the fan nut loose. I was'nt there, don't know what exactly was done at what forces.
    Many thanks... always appreciate your depth knowledge and experience [and willingness to share]...

    For the M52TUB I've just had the nose up 6" [saves so much bending over], have the heater value on hot, fill from the expansion tank, run the engine until the gauge is to mid-range, and burping the hoses for good measure... where my verification is that I have hot air blowing at idle... but always interested in S52/S54 appropriate procedures - still might be one in my future.. one never knows ;-)

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by jclausen View Post
    If you would just maintain your coolant system and leave it how it was you would be just fine. What are you trying to accomplish buy messing your coolant system up
    Nothing is harmed with the removal of the clutch fan unless the auxiliary fan fails and you idle and let it overheat.

    That said, never ever let a BMW idle if you're not watching the gauge; BMWs are drama opportunists.
    Last edited by LannVouivre; 12-03-2017 at 01:07 PM.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by jclausen View Post
    If you would just maintain your coolant system and leave it how it was you would be just fine. What are you trying to accomplish buy messing your coolant system up
    It's called some people like to modify and work on their cars. I have been deleting everything I can in the engine bay to free up space and weight. Windshield wiper fluid tank, gone. SAP, gone. AC, may be gone if I don't want it in the summer. Fan clutch and shroud, gone. Passenger seat, gone.

    Got to cut weight to stay competitive against some of the slower street cars. Plus I want to track the car next season.

    Randy-
    You are the man. Did what you said and everything is good. I treated the process like how I do it on my Taurus and Shelby. Obviously didn't work out. If you ever are in OKC I'll buy you a round.

  14. #14
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    FYI, for the S52, a vacuum filler like the Airlift II works perfectly for refilling the system without any air being trapped whatsoever. It also exposes any leaks before filling. It is a wonder tool in that regard.


  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Bingley View Post
    FYI, for the S52, a vacuum filler like the Airlift II works perfectly for refilling the system without any air being trapped whatsoever. It also exposes any leaks before filling. It is a wonder tool in that regard.

    I have used basically the same thing and it is awesome. Never an air pocket, never a leak afterward and EASY.
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  16. #16
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    Is there any after market coolant reservoir that can be used to relocate to a different location? I couldn't find much on the forums.

  17. #17
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    And there is the crux of the matter. The US spec E36 motors have the header tank below the engine level. To fill the system the traditional way means pouring uphill. The E46 engines moved the tank higher and in the back of the engine bay. But these engines have their own filling problems; there is no direct path into the engine block.

    As far as I know there is no aftermarket solution, only reproductions of the factory design. Robb1887 did a custom high mounted tank using European S50 parts. He has a build thread here. I use a custom built Zionsville setup, but it still has the tank in the factory location.


    /.randy

  18. #18
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    Thanks Randy.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Bielick View Post
    Having had the auxiliary fan fail, I can tell you the car does NOT overheat with a fan failure as long as it is moving relatively fast forward. It does overheat quickly at rest. The OP says the car overheated while moving, which says it was not due to the fan.
    Having no mechanical fan, nothing but an electric fan, my engine needs only slow forward speed to cool it. The fan only begins to cycle on and off when stopped in hot summer traffic for a few minutes.
    Last edited by Vintage42; 12-04-2017 at 06:35 AM.
    BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Bingley View Post
    FYI, for the S52, a vacuum filler like the Airlift II works perfectly for refilling the system without any air being trapped whatsoever. It also exposes any leaks before filling. It is a wonder tool in that regard.

    It also works great on the M54... And R55 mini for that matter (although I can only seem to drain about half the old coolant out of that engine).

    However, maybe you or Wertles can help me with something. Whenever I get to the point of re-filling, where I have a vacuum, put the hose in the bucket of coolant+water (which is at a level above the filler hole), and turn the valve, I can never get rid of all the air that's stuck in the hose. Eventually I give up and let it get sucked into the reservoir. I always use the bleed screw for the next few days, and I've never had even the slightest rise in temperature over normal, but that bit of air always bothers me.

    Do you have a trick for priming the hose or getting rid of the initial air in it?

  21. #21
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    It would be very hard, if not impossible, to not get some air into the system no matter which procedure you use. As long as it is at the top of the system, it will migrate to the overflow tank (which has air in it). I also use the suction system and have never had any "air in the system" issues even though I know there is air in the hose which sucks the liquid back into the system.
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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by rf900rkw View Post
    You don't have any coolant in the block. If you filled it using a youtube vid, you did it wrong. If you filled it using any instructions that tell you to start the engine before the system is totally full, you did it wrong. Cold engine. Take the upper hose off, and stick it on the thermostat housing pointed up. Use this new point to pour coolant directly into the engine. Keep pouring until coolant runs out of the open radiator neck. Reinstall hose. Finish topping up, squeezing hoses to burp the last bit of air out. Put the cap on, start it up. Note that no where in here did I mention the bleeder; it's a waste of time.
    Using this technique air will not be trapped inside heater?

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by deni2s View Post
    Using this technique air will not be trapped inside heater?
    No more so than any other technique. Turn the damn blower on if you must. But leave the key off.


    /.randy

  24. #24
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    Never, ever take the fan off. Asking for trouble on any car.
    Lets get the party started before it's my bedtime.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by raubritter View Post
    It also works great on the M54... And R55 mini for that matter (although I can only seem to drain about half the old coolant out of that engine).

    However, maybe you or Wertles can help me with something. Whenever I get to the point of re-filling, where I have a vacuum, put the hose in the bucket of coolant+water (which is at a level above the filler hole), and turn the valve, I can never get rid of all the air that's stuck in the hose. Eventually I give up and let it get sucked into the reservoir. I always use the bleed screw for the next few days, and I've never had even the slightest rise in temperature over normal, but that bit of air always bothers me.

    Do you have a trick for priming the hose or getting rid of the initial air in it?
    Per the instructions, draw the vacuum down to 25 or so on the gauge and then open the petcock slightly to fill the hose, shutting it off again as soon as it is filled. Then continue to draw the vacuum down another minute or two to purge the system (I usually get to 27 on the gauge). I let it sit for 10 or 15 minutes to be sure the vacuum doesn't bleed off any, and then draw it down again for a few minutes before filling. I have tried it various ways, but I find it best to have the bucket about level with the tires (so I have the car a foot or so off the ground and put the bucket on a milk crate). If the vacuum drops any while sitting, there's a leak somewhere that needs to be addressed before filling (check the radiator petcock first).

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