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Thread: Fan Delete and Now Overheating

  1. #201
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Bay Area, Killa Kali
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    2002 MC, 2019 LCI 330iT
    Quote Originally Posted by rf900rkw View Post
    Damon, Andrew, where have you been hiding?


    On an S54, I would go with the 80/88 fan switch.
    Thanks Randy, parts on order! Anyone want a free mechnical fan? Just pay postage

    I've been around and checking the boards fairly regularly. I just haven't been as involved with the car as my wife and I bought a house late last year and that has taken priority. Hope you and the rest of the community are doing well.

    -2019 F31 Individual M-sport Touring
    -2002 S54 M Coupé

  2. #202
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    BMW Z3 3.0 VF SC'd
    Quote Originally Posted by CaliAgents View Post
    Thanks Randy, parts on order! Anyone want a free mechnical fan? Just pay postage

    I've been around and checking the boards fairly regularly. I just haven't been as involved with the car as my wife and I bought a house late last year and that has taken priority. Hope you and the rest of the community are doing well.
    ...would you let that AP Racing brakeset go if I just pay postage?

    One can dream!

    "You don't win silver....you lose gold."

  3. #203
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by danomite View Post
    ...would you let that AP Racing brakeset go if I just pay postage?

    One can dream!
    My beloved Pro 5000+ setup is long gone now =( Maybe the current owner would be so kind to let it go for postage

    -2019 F31 Individual M-sport Touring
    -2002 S54 M Coupé

  4. #204
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
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    Arida Zona
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    z3
    On an S54 I would say the 80/88C switch is pretty necessary...

    Tried mine out without the mechanical fan after cooling system work recently and it ran pretty hot. Still in the correct temperature range... but on the hot side of that range for sure. The lower temp switch will keep everything at a safe temp at all times.

  5. #205
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
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    Houston
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    '98 328i/4, '03 M3
    Quote Originally Posted by rf900rkw View Post
    The aux fan is more than adequate for even desert traffic conditions, as stated here.
    For clarification's sake, would this be with a thermostat like an 80C and water wetter, or otherwise stock cooling? I haven't seen much mention of changing thermostats with aux fans.

    I'm going through a high mileage e36 328i and I want to make it as reliable as possible. Clutch fan will come out first then probably adding a puller fan + lower rad hose sensor before summer.

  6. #206
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
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    Odessa, TX
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    2000 BMW Z3 2.8 Roadster
    Stock, Aeko. I'm not sure on the E36 for this topic, but I suspect it's the same situation as in the Z3.

  7. #207
    Join Date
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    E36/7 E36/8x2 E46 F25
    Stock will work just fine. Of the popular "upgrades" for an M52, the 80c fan switch would be most useful. I run a 80c thermostat purely because supercharged. Not needed for stock. And water wetter is a waste of time.
    Last edited by rf900rkw; 01-08-2018 at 09:01 AM.

  8. #208
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
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    Houston
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    '98 328i/4, '03 M3
    Quote Originally Posted by rf900rkw View Post
    Stock will work just fine. Of the popular "upgrades" for an M52, the 80c fan switch would be most useful. I run a 80c thermostat purely because supercharged. Not needed for stock. And water wetter is a waste of time.
    Noted. I figured I would run a lower thermostat temp if I decide to opt for performance upgrades. Thank you very much! Also hope your treatment goes well.

  9. #209
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
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    MN
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    1997 z3 roadster
    Quote Originally Posted by Aeko View Post
    Also hope your treatment goes well.
    We've got a lot of great people on this forum but we are fortunate to have a couple of Randys posting regularly!
    It's a Hybrid--Burns Gas and Rubber

  10. #210
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    After performing not only the mechanical fan delete but also the below, I wanted to update this thread with nothing but positive results.

    -OE BMW AC and alternator/WP belts (original bits were showing cracks, especially the AC belt)
    -OE BMW Motorsport fan delete nut
    -OE BMW 80/88C fan switch
    -coolant flush (block and radiator)

    I monitored temps before the mechanical fan delete and afterwards with an OBDII Ultragauge and I can safely say there is absolutely zero cooling issues. The biggest ticket for me was peace of mind knowing that I had an unstable component underneath the hood removed for good. Last thing I need is a fan tearing up my cooling system, denting up the hood, and leaving me stranded yadidimean?! Thanks fellas, yeeeeeeeeeeeee!
    Last edited by CaliAgents; 02-02-2018 at 01:17 PM.

    -2019 F31 Individual M-sport Touring
    -2002 S54 M Coupé

  11. #211
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by rf900rkw View Post
    You don't have any coolant in the block. If you filled it using a youtube vid, you did it wrong. If you filled it using any instructions that tell you to start the engine before the system is totally full, you did it wrong. Cold engine. Take the upper hose off, and stick it on the thermostat housing pointed up. Use this new point to pour coolant directly into the engine. Keep pouring until coolant runs out of the open radiator neck. Reinstall hose. Finish topping up, squeezing hoses to burp the last bit of air out. Put the cap on, start it up. Note that no where in here did I mention the bleeder; it's a waste of time.
    I tried this method after replacing all cooling system - it didn't worked as good as I expected. After starting the engine after heater was blowing cold air, squeezing hoses didn't helped much. After idling and squeezing hoses for 20 minutes revved the car for about 2-3 minutes to 3k and heater core finally started to fill with coolant and blow hot air. Seems like even after that there was still some air inside as engine coolant temp was still fluctuating a bit couple days and had to fill up some coolant (up to 1L). After that seems that all air was finally out.

  12. #212
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    I recommend filling it, squeezing hoses, and screaming at it about the futility of life in general. Worked for me.

  13. #213
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    I've said it before, but it fits here too. Each engine used in the Z3 has its own quirks on coolant filling. The M52 with the low header tank is the hardest in general. The M54 is by far the easiest, as long as you don't pull the block drain. Tricks that work well on one may be redundant on another.... or blow up in your face.

  14. #214
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    When I had to change the cheap aluminum thermostat housing that was leaking on my '98 2.8, I invested in an Airlift vacuum unit. Made refilling the cooling system a breeze. Simply attach the unit to your cooling system, let it pull a vacuum (which also tests for leaks), flip a switch, and let the vacuum pull coolant into the system. I had absolutely no issues, and I'd never again do any cooling system work without it.

  15. #215
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Bielick View Post
    When I had to change the cheap aluminum thermostat housing that was leaking on my '98 2.8, I invested in an Airlift vacuum unit. Made refilling the cooling system a breeze. Simply attach the unit to your cooling system, let it pull a vacuum (which also tests for leaks), flip a switch, and let the vacuum pull coolant into the system. I had absolutely no issues, and I'd never again do any cooling system work without it.
    +1 on S52

  16. #216
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    I used the airlift system on my M52tu and it fell short of getting all the air out. I'm cursed, though.

  17. #217
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    Quote Originally Posted by LannVouivre View Post
    I used the airlift system on my M52tu and it fell short of getting all the air out. I'm cursed, though.
    Don't know if you're cursed or not.. ;-) ... but I also have a M52TU(B25) motor, and think the bleeding of the system is easy/straightforward (though I might be deluded) and will leave to Randy to correct... but I put the nose of the Z on ramps, lifting it 8"; bring the system temp up to operating temp; set the heater to full hot and fan to "1"; fill the system from the expansion tank; run the engine at 2500-3000rpm; and give the top radiator hose a good couple squeezes... and why I think this works is: heater works at idle, and have never had out of range operating temps... which to me says there is no air trapped in the system... the other thing I do per Randy's reverse engineering, is to keep the expansion tank at the low mark, meaning that the system is operating at a lower pressure, stressing hoses etc less.

  18. #218
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    I can get the air out, just not using the airlift system.

  19. #219
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    Question: For those who changed their radiator (mine is nissens), did you still have to use a thread sealant for the auxiliary fan switch on the radiator? The auxiliary fan switch sensor has a metal gasket but I heard even with the metal gasket, it's still best to use a thread sealant to ensure there's no leak. Also the same with the coolant temperature sensor and oil pressure sensor, I heard.

    FCP Euro recommended me this:
    https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/hig...-sealant-59235

  20. #220
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    You don't need a thread sealant, just the alum or copper crush washer. You can verify the sealing surface is flat on the radiator's threaded bung.

  21. #221
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    Quote Originally Posted by Randy Forbes View Post
    You don't need a thread sealant, just the alum or copper crush washer. You can verify the sealing surface is flat on the radiator's threaded bung.
    Hey Randy, so this is what I see in my Nissens right now. It's a crush washer on a hard plastic fitting? I don't get it. I probably would have to use thread sealant. Unless it really works this way?

    IMG_6100.jpg

  22. #222
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    Thats the plug that blocks the temp switch port during shipping isnt it? Thats where the fan temp switch will go, needs to be swapped from old radiator. They do just seal with the crush washer

  23. #223
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    Z4M Coupe
    Quote Originally Posted by RayBallen View Post
    Hey Randy, so this is what I see in my Nissens right now. It's a crush washer on a hard plastic fitting? I don't get it. I probably would have to use thread sealant. Unless it really works this way?

    IMG_6100.jpg
    I just put in a Nissen radiator. Real OEM calls for a crush washer part# 32411093596 on the temp switch so I put that in. The radiator and switch that was previously on the car didn’t have a washer so I questioned whether it was needed. I went ahead and put the washer on with no thread sealant. Can’t comment on whether it leaks or no since I haven’t filled the system yet. Waiting on a thermostat housing.






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