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Thread: Help 2008 bmw 328i with misfires on 1,2,3 cyl and power loss

  1. #26
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    It's much more likely that the INPA he is using is not terribly up to date, so the units listed are not correct.

    Tool32 jobs will be correct.

    - - - Updated - - -

    That, or those are preset maximums when sensor is disconnected or broken.
    -Abel

    - E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
    - 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
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    - 2016 Mini Cooper S

  2. #27
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    I did and and there was no change and the fan comes on full blast

  3. #28
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    What I’m worried about is the AFM because after the car started run better on my otc jenesis scanner that was the only thing that did not change it’s still reading 3758 lbs/h and 1700 lbs/h on idle, and I know is only supposed to be around 45lbs/h.
    can the air flow meter cause misfire on 1,2,3?
    should I unplug afm and test drive it?
    also the post cat o2sensor bank one is the only one reading lower voltage but I get no error codes for that

  4. #29
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    I unplug the temp sensor no change on voltage and the water pump starts running?

  5. #30
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    Damn....wonder if your INPA even knows about electric water pumps?

    If your engine fan runs full blast, the DME has recognized a significant fault in the cooling system. Most often, there's a water pump code when this occurs.

    I am having a great deal of difficulty believing or even understanding some of the data you're showing.
    When I am provided with improbable data, I try to verify it with a different and hopefully better diag machine.


    Abel's (328Power04) is the best computer guy I know. He's just finished doing an impossible job -- AGAIN -- for my shop, helping save a customer a thousand dollars.

    WildAssedGuess: You need a water pump, thermostat, temp sensor, and likely, a MAF.

    The first two are basic maintenance, on your car.

    Again, this is a wildassedguess.

    Sure, unplug the MAF , clear codes, and drive. Expect new codes, and imperfect running.

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  6. #31
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    I was thinking of replacing the temp sensor and see what happens since it’s only around $20

  7. #32
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    Where is the temp sensor which you unplugged?

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  8. #33
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    It’s on the cylinder head in front of the engine,I thought that there was supposed to be another one right on the lower radiator hose but this model doesn’t have it

  9. #34
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    Yes, the one at top front is the one that feeds the computer Engine Coolant Temperature.

    Here's a picture from Alldata of the radiator outlet temp sensor location:
    Attached Images Attached Images

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  10. #35
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    I’ll check tonight after work ,Is that the n52 engine?

  11. #36
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    My manual shows it’s on the thermostat

  12. #37
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    Yes, according to Alldata. Personally, I do not remember seeing this here, and the photo looks like a 4-cylinder 328i motor from 4 years later.

    But I believe this would likely be a fan switch anyway, like the earlier cars. If you're going to change a temp sensor, go with the one you've already chosen. For one thing, it's up high, so you won't lose much coolant during the swap.

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  13. #38
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    As for the thermostat, well, I found a picture of that, at Mitchell ProDemand. However, I've changed a LOT of N52 thermostats, and only ever found one electric plug present. And, being a DME controlled thermostat, that's for the control circuit.

    Anyway, change the one at top center.
    Last edited by bmwdirtracer; 12-12-2017 at 07:03 PM. Reason: I'd accidentally typed N62 instead of N52

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  14. #39
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    I’ll get it tomorrow if they have but I’ve got stupid question, so in what way would a problem in the coolant system affect cylinders 1,2,3 causing the bank1 cat to go bad?
    also a few weeks ago me and my neighbor before I found out the cat was bad we were thinking maybe it was an overheating issue because the thermostat would open at 80 degrees and that was a reading with a temp gun so it might not be accurate I don’t know because on inpa is working as it should except for the voltage issue.
    also inpa says v105! At radiator OUTLET temp so isn’t the outlet hose the one connected to the thermostat?because it’s going out of the radiator?

  15. #40
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    I put in a new temp sensor still no change in voltage
    also did a back pressure test on bank1 pre cat and it’s at 8 psi so I guess this cat is also bad

  16. #41
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    Pressure tested bank2 and it’s at 0psi at 3000rpm
    so I guess bank1 cat also bad

  17. #42
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    Yes, 8 psi is terrible, the exhaust is clogged.

    The only evidence I see that the cooling system is having an issue are the weird voltages from INPA, and Abel has said these may be because your INPA is out of date.

    It IS crucial that you determine WHY the cats clogged, because they don't just do that by themselves.

    If the engine has overheated badly, it's possible that it's got a warped head and blown head gasket. This would put coolant into the cylinders, and therefore into the cats....which would clog them. Or, if the mixtures were absurdly rich or absurdly lean for a long time, that would also clog the cats. (If, for instance, someone disconnected the MAF, and drove it for months, or if the DME is reading the temperatures as stone cold, either of those would cause excessive richness, which would clog the cats.

    If you don't fix the cause of the clogged cats, the new ones will die also.

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  18. #43
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    That’s the problem I don’t even know where to start.
    if the engine had a blown head gasket I would have seen water in plugs or in oil and my compression test would not have been 150 across all cylinders because I thought of this too.
    also had a guy tell me that people using cheaper gas can cause a cat to go bad,also had read online people who ther cats just went bad and so they replaced and all was well,because cats do not last forever so it could be it just went bad?
    also on inpa on idle at normal temp it shows my air flow rate at 3 f/s is that normal? Does anyone know what that is?im thinking it’s to do with the air flow meter?

  19. #44
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    So I put a new cat on it ant still show that it’s clogged,I guess it’s a valve issue in those three cylinders and lots of smoke coming from bank1.....time to get rid of it

  20. #45
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    If the replacement (USED) cat shows more than 2 psi of backpressure, measuring at the primary O2 sensor hole, do the exact same test at the SECONDARY (after cat) O2 sensor hole for the same bank! (I think I mentioned this, somewhere above).

    If the secondary sensor hole test shows the same backpressure, then the exhaust is clogged AFTER the cats. This often happens when the cat self-destructs, and the pieces of the honeycomb end up clogging the resonator or the muffler.

    This is important! Old British expression: "Don't throw away the baby, with the bathwater !"

    If you have more than 1.5 or 2 psi exhaust backpressure, it is because the exhaust is clogged....PERIOD.

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  21. #46
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    Ok I’ll try that thankyou

  22. #47
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    Yes post cat is clogged,same readings as pre-cat

  23. #48
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    Okay, then we've got the culprit! If your gauge works, the exhaust is clogged AFTER the cats, Do not replace the cat. Take the exhaust off, and shake it until the pieces fall out.

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  24. #49
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    Yes my gauges work,so I don’t need to replace the exhaust?
    Thanks again

  25. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tigre77 View Post
    Yes my gauges work,so I don’t need to replace the exhaust?
    Thanks again
    You don't need to replace the cats, since your test confirmed that the problem is after the cats, closer to exhaust tips (muffler). If you can't clear out the muffler, you might need a new one.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

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