"The shark"-E21-Overheating issue

[Neu Alt]

Super glue/krazy glue, not loctite. Try gluing the end of a new long bolt to the broken bolt on the engine block. If the broken bolt turns freely, this could work.

Be very sparing with the super glue, so as not to glue things together in there.
* or try a wooden dowel instead of a bolt, maybe 1/4" diameter (5/16" may be too big)

Fingers crossed for you!

Smaller diameter dowel might be better so you can "feel" the remnant you want to remove. Maybe flood the cavity with carb or brake cleaner the day before doing it to flush out any dirt on the threads.

[Lebindor]

Hi guys,
Sorry it has been a while since I posted but the weather in MA has been really bad and cold.. the last few days I was able to work on it and with some help the broken bolt is out and the water pump is now all set with prematex with no leaks.
A new condition I am experiencing now is needle goes to 3/4 while I am driving whether I have the heat on or off but when I stop and let the car idle the temperature goes back to normal under half way mark. Do you have a suggestion on what it could be? I am out of ideas. Anything I should specifically check?

Thanks
Eli

[Lebindor]

Do tou think the A/C condensor is blocking any of the air flow?
Or should I eliminate the belt to the ac compressor?
Eli

[epmedia]

Hi guys,
Sorry it has been a while since I posted but the weather in MA has been really bad and cold.. the last few days I was able to work on it and with some help the broken bolt is out and the water pump is now all set with prematex with no leaks.
A new condition I am experiencing now is needle goes to 3/4 while I am driving whether I have the heat on or off but when I stop and let the car idle the temperature goes back to normal under half way mark. Do you have a suggestion on what it could be? I am out of ideas. Anything I should specifically check?

Thanks
Eli

Some folks have reported bad 'new' thermostats. Possibly your t-stat is not opening all the way. You can test it in a pot of water on the stove. The t-stat should 'begin' to open at it's rated temp, and fully open about just before boiling temp(this is a guess) .

Do tou think the A/C condensor is blocking any of the air flow?
Or should I eliminate the belt to the ac compressor?
Eli

Just removing the A/C belt won't help with t-shooting. But go ahead and remove it if you don't expect to use the A/C. The A/C condensor will block air-flow to the radiator if it's dirty/banged up.

[Lebindor]

I will try to clean the A/C condensor by unbolting the radiator, removing the fan so I can gain some access. After a second thought, removing the AC belt might cause the compressor to fail or get stuck. I will start with the cleaning first.
Thanks
Eli

[jtbgonesailing]

Check for leaves etc between the radiator and the condenser. The gap between the 2 is the perfect catch point for crap to build up and severely reduce air flow. Easiest approach is to pull the radiator straight up and out, then clean both sides of condenser and radiator, followed by a good spraying with a garden hose.

[Lebindor]

I just wanted to update you guys on this and if someone is experiencing the same thing so they can get some information.
Bottom line, had to redo the head gasket. (even though compression test passed). no resurfacing was needed. Car is running below half mark no matter what the condition is (stop, city, highway, etc..)
I guess it did not hurt to overhaul the system.
I will try to post another update 1-2 months from now.

[superj]

I had the same issue on my old e21, back in the day. mine was the headgasket also.

[bwesty]

Also late to the party but I brought my two cents:

I solved my overheating issue by flushing the radiator with a rust remover multiple times and then replacing the water pump.