As per my other post, I am expanding a bit on my experience on replacing the control arms on a 2001 740. AFAIK all E38s should be the same, though.


A few basic pointers:


Pre: car on lift, wheels pointing straight. I assume you're not touching the steering, though replacing the tie rod and the center link and thus having them out of the way does make things easier. Be mindful that you will be using all the wrenches that ISO says shouldn't exist, i.e. 16, 18, 21 and 22. You need at least 2x combination wrenches and one socket for each of these. Oh and hilarity will ensue when you realise that your german swaybar links for your german car... use a 5/8 nut. 16? Nope. You will need breaker bars as well as ratchets for the sockets.


1) Disconnect swaybar links at swaybar. If replacing, remove from strut and replace WITHOUT connecting to swaybar until the end of the procedure. Lift swaybar to gain access for (2) and following.
2) DO crack the nuts on the ball joints at the knuckle end - both control arms and traction struts
3) Right after this, undo the pinch bolts and lower the knuckles carefully about 2". Tighten pinch bolts back to avoid sadness.
4) At this point, remove nuts from ball joints at knuckle end for both control arms and traction struts
5) Use ball joint separator and remove ball joints from knuckle end - again both
6) AFTER freeing the ball joint ends of the control arms and tie rods (if doing those as well), loosen bolts for control arms at subframe
7) Remove control arms
8) If applicable, loosen ball joints of center link and lift center link from idler arm + steering arm.
9) If applicable, remove tie rod ends and slide out center link.
10) If applicable, remove idler arm.
11) It MAY be easier to remove the swaybar brackets at the subframe to gain further room to work. That depends on what tools you have and whether you're touching the steering.
12) If steering is removed, remove traction strut bolts and traction struts. Be mindful that YOU WILL KNOW FRUSTRATION if you have anything to do with these bolts while the end of the traction strut is still in the knuckle so DO NOT REPEAT NOT do that.
13) If steering is not removed, you will have to move steering all to one side (via steering wheel) to gain access to the head of the bolts up in (12). Be mindful that the bolts will be captive. Also be mindful that steering needs to be at max otherwise you will not have enough clearance for the bolts. Remove traction struts.
14) Clean everything, including where old ball joints were. Be mindful of almost certain rust inside of swaybar brackets, both on brackets and on frame. Fix if needed.


When reinstalling, mostly reverse of removal but there are a few further considerations:


1) Read 12 above. Read it again. Read it a third time.
2) In consequence of (1), if the steering is out, first insert traction strut heads in subframe, thread bolts and put nut on bolt WITHOUT tightening to torque. If steering is not out, insert traction strut heads and slide the captive bolts in, then put nut on etc.
3) The ball joints have personalities. It pays to subsequently put in (or have in) the steering parts, then put the traction strut ball joints in first. Thread the bolts on them but do not tighten yet.
4) After this install lower control arms. You can put the ball joint end in first, thread but do not tighten the bolt, then put the subframe head into the subframe. Thread the bolts into subframe + arm but do not tighten.
5) Now the knuckles are fairly under control: tighten lower control arm ball joints while relying on the rest of the parts to help you hold the subframe still. These usually have allen slots in the ball joint stem so you are tightening the nut vs. force on the stem, less external help is needed.
6) Once this is done, undo pinch bolts, move knuckles back up to position being mindful to rotate the strut properly, put pinch bolts back in and tighten.
7) Now tighten traction strut ball joint nuts. Box wrench will be fine. If ball joint stems do not have allen socket (one of mine did and the other did not - both Lemforder, new, bought together from same supplier) use jack to compress ball joint to knuckle, thus preventing stem from turning.
8) Install swaybar links to end of swaybar. If you had previously removed the brackets for rust/to give yourself more room, you need to put them on before putting the links in. You can do this after (2) or do it right before putting the links in.


Finally, get wheels to ride height by preferred method and tighten subframe bolts for lower control arm and traction strut. Be mindful that this is not without risk if you're using a lift (or jack with jackstands). The only really safe way is to install the wheels and have a pit available.


Put wheels back on, ride five miles, go back on the lift and check that everything is tight, including wheel nuts. Raid the cellar for any and all available alcohol.

Note, the following day, that the noise that you were trying to address when replacing the control arms is still there. Language used at this point is left, again, as an exercise for the reader. But that is another story.