2000 Z3 2.5 86k miles, mostly a garage queen but wife's been driving it for 7-10 miles a day all of last week, I think with AC on-it's still hot in Texas.
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EDIT --- Its Automatic transmission
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Car has a transmission warning light.
While backing up from garage to pack car outside, transmission warning came on. Turned it off, parked with hand brake, waited, started it again and warning light was gone. Same thing next day. However, later while pulling the car in, warning light popped up and remained on; car must have been in 3rd gear because it took a lot of gas to get it to move inside, parked and trany light was still on. I was in a rush so I didn't have the time to test it again.
While fiddling on a small screen at the doc's office I remember reading something about changing something ... maybe a module of some sort or something, either near the shifter or brake pedal. I just can't trace that page any more. And that, that replacement has to be a genuine BMW part from BMW, any other and people were having the issue/trany light recur. That if you do the turn engine off-park-handbrake-wait-start again, test, and the warning light's gone that you don't necessarily have a trany problem but a module that's needing to be changed. Would appreciate if someone can please point me to a solution and the item that's to be replaced.
Last edited by Jay11; 11-22-2017 at 11:56 PM.
If it's shifting fine, it's the brake light switch.
Otherwise you must scan for BMW codes.
-Abel
- E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
- 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
- 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
- 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
- 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
- 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
- 2016 Mini Cooper S
Most likely, it is the brake light switch. Mine was intermittent like yours. When it’s acting up, your torque converter won’t lock up, your top may not go up or down, your brake light won’t light up and I think your cruise control won’t work either. The part was cheap on amazon and took about 15 minutes to replace. Transmission light and all other things fixed immediately.
1999 M Coupe Boston Green, Beige, H&R/Bilsteins, Underdrive Pulleys, Euro 6 speed, UUC SSK and Randy Forbes in the back
2002 2.5 Z3 roadster Oxford Green, auto, all stock
2013 Ram 3500 Crew Cab Dually 385 HP, 850 ft lbs torque at 1600 rpm, all stock and staying that way
2004 Mini Cooper Chili Red, daily driver, modified almost daily
They do not shift correctly when the brake light switch fails. The most notciable change will be there will be no TCC lock-up.
/.randy
-Abel
- E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
- 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
- 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
- 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
- 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
- 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
- 2016 Mini Cooper S
For good measure i will check trans fluid tomorrow and do a short roady.
Now that you guys mention cruise control...This car's actually doesn't work. Turned key to accessories, I suspect a reset has occurred-brake lights were ok and roof works ok. Batt is low won't crank but I will jump it tomorrow. Does this definitely indicate a bad brake switch?
Think i will go ahead and replace the party any way. Is this the part? http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tech...eplacement.htm
Looking at that writeup - it looks like the switch is a DPST switch, ie, two switches in one module, ie, it could be possible for one half to still be good, and the other bad, ie, some functions that it drives will still work, but others won't... I think I would replace the switch, especially given the minimal cost, and see if things don't improve.
It is a primary switch that drives everything you would expect, and then a light secondary switch that is used as a redundancy check. It's the redundancy check that fails. Replace the switch. I've written up how to do it multiple times in this forum.
Brake switch:
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...6#post28358366
BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405
Replaced the brake switch, but there's a little issue. The brake lights are staying on. I have to left-leg pull up brake pedal by just a slight tap, towards me. Did this at night, didn't get a chance to investigate. What could be the cause?
Also found that wire hanging in the previous post above. Do you have an idea what's it for and where it should be plugged in to?
Pull the switch plunger out a few clicks. Let the pedal set the return.
Wiring is likely for one of the clutch pedal switches.
R u still experiencing the issues u describe? I experienced the dreaded yellow gearbox in the past. Once it came in, it felt like gear was stuck on 3rd or 4th. Had to turn engine off and wait 1/2 a minute and turned key back on and found the gearbox is gone. I replaced my transmission thermostat and everything is running smooth now. It is located underneath the water expansion tank. U will need to remove the expansion tank to access it. When i opened mine, the thermostat was broken. But again, this is only for automatic transmission e46
Z3s are the last of the air cooled. They do not have a transmission thermostat.
I got the gear indicator on the tranny again today. Scanned the codes and found the brake light switch code.
Ordering a replacement $10
Stop light switch 4-POLIG/MECH. 1 61318360417
Lets hope that they are the same issue.
White is Right, Steel Grey is OK, but Estoril is the only color that truly matters.
I like Coupes.
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