Starting and suspension questions

[427LS]

The weather has gone cold on most mornings and seems like starting has some problems. Sometimes it cold starts great, other times it cranks long picking up 2 or 3 cylinders, then finally gets them all. Today it took 10 seconds of cranking ad finally started when I pushed the throttle down half way. When it started it smoked like it was flooded, but after running 3-4 seconds it clears up and runs/drives fine. It only does this on first start of day so far.
Suspension has vibration that shakes the steering wheel sometimes, worse under braking but it's not in the brake pedal and I already tried new rotors. 150,000 miles, any common things I should focus on checking?

Kurt

[zubbie]

Need to know model and year to help your starting issue as different engines have different common problems.

Vibration is usually caused by worn thrust arms, warped rotors, driveline problems (worn guibo), or missing hub rings on aftermarket wheels. Search 55 mph shimmy on this forum and find oodles of examples.

[squirrelhill]

As for the hard starts in cold weather, perhaps your oil is too thick? I was running 15w/40 in my e34 touring and started getting hard starts on cold mornings here in D.C., along with a flickering of the low oil pressure warning. Switched the oil to 5w/40 and the cold starts are a lot smoother.

[moroza]

Thick oil wouldn't cause that kind of misfiring. Suspect dirty injectors?

The shaking sounds a lot like thrust arms.

[427LS]

Thanks for the replies! The car is 1992 525i wagon with 2.5 inline 6 cylinder.
The starting thing didn't show up until the temperature started dropping, so it makes me think some type of enrichment device is not working right. I recently did a 5 hour trip at 80mph, fuel mpg was 22 with AC on, that seems normal for size of car so I'm assuming engine injectors/cylinders are all firing when warmed up. It does seem very slow especially at low rpm, but I assume that's just the small engine.
What are thrust arms? The shake reminds me of my old Chevy 2 when the idler arm was bad, kind of intermittent. Seems like the right bump can start it shaking, then it will stop for no reason. Sometimes it starts when you hit the brakes, but harder braking will make it stop. I guessed it was rotors at first, but it's not in the brake pedal feel, just the steering. So now I have 4 new rotors and ceramic pads I didn't really need! I bought drilled/slotted rotors, so it stops and looks good at least.

Kurt

[affende]

Thanks for the replies! The car is 1992 525i wagon with 2.5 inline 6 cylinder.
The starting thing didn't show up until the temperature started dropping, so it makes me think some type of enrichment device is not working right. I recently did a 5 hour trip at 80mph, fuel mpg was 22 with AC on, that seems normal for size of car so I'm assuming engine injectors/cylinders are all firing when warmed up. It does seem very slow especially at low rpm, but I assume that's just the small engine.
What are thrust arms? The shake reminds me of my old Chevy 2 when the idler arm was bad, kind of intermittent. Seems like the right bump can start it shaking, then it will stop for no reason. Sometimes it starts when you hit the brakes, but harder braking will make it stop. I guessed it was rotors at first, but it's not in the brake pedal feel, just the steering. So now I have 4 new rotors and ceramic pads I didn't really need! I bought drilled/slotted rotors, so it stops and looks good at least.

Kurt

you are describing tale-tell signs of worn bushings in your thrust arms. thrust arms / upper control arms.

hard starts can be a sign of a failing fuel pump, which is common, as well.

[427LS]

This car has the strut top bolted right into the body with just a pivot bearing that has rubber isolation type mount. I just had the struts off as the tail was low so I put a set of 4 Eibach lowering springs in it. Everything on top looked very good and the front strut cartridges looked clean and have high resistance and are gas charged, so I left all that as it was. I'm going under it again this weekend and see if anything seems loose, I'm thinking something will be obvious as the shake is very noticeable. Thank you for the replies and ideas!

Kurt

[cirrusblau]

Upper control arm = thrust arm. It also says 735i but it's the same design for the E34 (but don't use an E32 arm on and E34).

[427LS]

Now I understand what those parts are called, thanks. I will check these today for play, is it normally visually noticable? I had my son turning the wheels yesterday with the cars weight on them and did not notice anything loose. I thought as bad as the shake feels something obvious would be wrong!

Kurt

[moroza]

No, the bushings often wear out functionally long before anything's amiss visually.

[427LS]

They look ok visually, but the rubber in the upper control arm bushing was clean looking blue under a dirty car. Makes me think it might be loose although it looks centered. I deflected it with a 1.5 foot pry bar airly easy, but when you let it go it snaps right back on center. I seen carparts.com showed all 4 in a kit for 172.00, might be worth trying as everything looks original?

Kurt

[cirrusblau]

What brand is the $172? Lemforder or Meyle HD are what's usually recommended for suspension components.

[zubbie]

Don't buy "off brand" suspension parts unless you intend on selling the car immediately. They last less time than it takes to install them. As stated above Meyle HD or Lemfoerder for thrust arms.

Check out FCP Euro, pelican, Turner motorsport, Autohaus AZ, ECS Tuning, BMA Parts, or Bavarian Auto.

[427LS]

Bavarian Autosport shows a front end rebuild kit for 302.50 that says it fits my car. It looks like it replaces everything that could be worn! Is this likely good quality parts that will last?

Kurt

[moroza]

What brand are they?

[84318i]

Bavarian Autosport shows a front end rebuild kit for 302.50 that says it fits my car. It looks like it replaces everything that could be worn! Is this likely good quality parts that will last?

Kurt

KURT,

There are many kits out there and the key thing folks are trying to tell is to look for Lemf..or Meyle HD at minimum unless you are looking to do this job twice .

[427LS]

I buy my parts online normally, so the actual brand is not listed. Bavarian Autosport is where I buy my OE parts, so far they've been great. One of the responses on this thread listed them as a good place, but I have no first hand knowledge of the kits they sell. I might end up keeping this car and installing LS power with proper auto trans, so front suspension/brakes needs solid working parts. If this was a Chevrolet-Ford made car I could buy high quality aftermarket bushings that I know are good parts, but I'm not up on these cars! I just like wagons, and this BMW wagon was interesting looking. I put a picture of my kids wagon on here, if it worked. IMG_2902.jpg

[moroza]

What on earth is that? Kinda cool looking.

(I bet the average Chebbie owner sees my car and says the exact same thing )

[Strife]

What on earth is that? Kinda cool looking.

(I bet the average Chebbie owner sees my car and says the exact same thing )

I think it's a Monte wagon.

OP, your starting issue is probably your ECT sensor, I had the exact same problems when I used to own an m50 in colder first day starts, the sensor reads your coolant temp wrong at cold and overfuels.

[cirrusblau]

I looked up that rebuild kit in the bavauto website. It says that kit is their own brand. Haven't heard bavauto making their own brand suspension parts, nor have I've read someone using them. If you still want to go by this forum's recommendations, I suggest you look up FCP Euro. They have a lot of Lemfoerder or Meyle kits depending on your needs. If not maybe you'll be the first one to try out the BavAuto kit, and maybe share with the forum your experience.

[427LS]

The wagon is a 1978 Chevrolet Malibu, it's my 17 year old sons first car. Currently it's apart getting 9 inch Ford posi traction rear end and 6 speed manual transmission. The engine is electronic fuel injected 350 V8 that makes about 300hp flywheel, we'll add power when he gets a bit better at driving!
The ECT sensor reading wrong sounds like a possible problem with the starting, but is it separate of the dash gauge? The dash gauge appears right when cold, then rises slowly into the middle with time. If they are separate: where is the engine ECU one located?

Kurt