Completely dumbfounded long crank no start

[Noop Noop]

I've been on this forum many times before, which has helped me diagnose my problems, but i'm in serious need of some help.

I have a 2007 335i, automatic.

Car was driving fine, when suddenly, it just showed a half-engine light, with my car then turning off.
In addition my car battery light flickered on.

I have one of those cheap code readers, and it's throwing out so many codes at once. one of them
being p1417 fault code.



symptoms go as follows:1st attempt long crank, starts, but idle goes up and down from 1000 to 1500 rpms. 2nd attempt, long crank, no start. Lights still turn on.
p1417 fault code. Bank 1 codes (there were so many relating to bank 1 codes, but had to abandon car at shopping center)

Parts replaced relating to possible problem: starter replaced less than a year ago, as well as the crankshaft position sensor. although i will note the crankshaft position sensor i found on a site that had it fairly cheap, it wasn't a perfect fit by any means, but this has worked for over 4 or so months.

I am absolutely frustrated how many times i've had to diagnose my car, but with over 10 codes being thrown, I don't know where to start.
I plan to take it to a reputable mechanic, but i would like to fix my car to the point that i can drive it there.

Additional info: ive had the car since 2013, and i have never replaced the battery, and today was the coldest day here where i live (central valley in ca)

[dworthy]

Welcome to the Forum!

I've been on this forum many times before, which has helped me diagnose my problems, but i'm in serious need of some help.

I have a 2007 335i, automatic.

Parts replaced relating to possible problem: starter replaced less than a year ago, as well as the crankshaft position sensor. although i will note the crankshaft position sensor i found on a site that had it fairly cheap, it wasn't a perfect fit by any means, but this has worked for over 4 or so months.

Well I for one, and many other Tech's on here do not trust any generic "P" codes. If you plan on DIYing your car, you will need to find a buddy/friend or get a proper diagnostic tool. While you are looking at the $150 range, how much would it cost at a shop to pull all the codes from all the DME's?

I would suspect the crank position sensor, for a cheap one would last about that long. Only 3 name I trust when it comes to OE sensors: Bosch; Hella; Siemens. All are made in Germany and BMW sources from those 3 manufacturers for most of their sensors.

[Noop Noop]

ive been meaning to order the scan tool that's on the ecstuning site, but i've been struggling to catch up on some overdue bills. that being said, i'll ask the mechanic how much it would be to do that. i'm still trying to figure out what my next move is, for example, if maybe i should just order a new crankshaft sensor and go from there.

[MarcoZandrini]

I agree with Darin. That el cheeeepo crank sensor is the most likely cause of the problem. Bite the bullet and install a crank sensor made by the supplier to BMW.

[pbonsalb]

For a capable scan tool, Look at the go well nt510. About $150 and you can download on free brand specific module when you register it. Does abs, adaption, steering angle sensor, pending codes, etc

[bmwdirtracer]

A crank sensor that "wasn't a perfect fit"? Now, THAT is a scary thought!

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...or-s119044012z
and the o-ring:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-12141748398oe

[ptarditi]

Long crank no start on an n54,if its not the cheapo CPS, my guess: high pressure fuel pump.

[Noop Noop]

im going to stop by the dealership and just order the thing, i meant to buy one that wasn't a cheap cps, but completely forgot about it, as well as look up that scan tool. a lot of good info, will follow up once i get the part in and install.

[325bob]

im going to stop by the dealership and just order the thing, i meant to buy one that wasn't a cheap cps, but completely forgot about it, as well as look up that scan tool. a lot of good info, will follow up once i get the part in and install.

You can buy a good one elsewhere,Pelican,etc.

[Noop Noop]

So in my attempt to be thorough, I got a ride to my car, waiting for the tow truck to arrive, and now have the full list of what this scanner is telling me. It goes as follows:
1) camshaft position sensor A circuit bank 1 or single sensor, 2)CPS sensor B circuit bank 1,3) throttle valve position control; stuck temporarily, 4)throttle valve position control; throttle stuck permanently,5) p1417,6) p3003, 7)camshaft position sensor A Circuit intermittent Bank 1 or a Single Sensor, 8)CPS sensor B Circuit Intermittent Bank 1, 9)Throttle Valve Control Circuit

- - - Updated - - -

Sooooo maybe it's not the crank sensor? Either way I know I'm going to replace it, just wanting to know if I should look at replacing the camshaft sensors first, or if these are symptoms to something worse

[02Pilot]

The first thing you need to do is get a BMW-specific scanner on it. Fault codes reported by OBD2 readers are incomplete at best and inaccurate at worst.

[Noop Noop]

Okay, well I bought the foxwell nt 150 code reader, and I'm still trying to figure this thing out. I believe it says under status report, A0B4/present: CAS: engine start, starter operation
And
A0B2/not present: CAS: supply, terminal 30e/30l

[Noop Noop]

Also under testing the jbe: it reads A6E4/not present fuel level sensor, left.

I had replaced starter months ago, but would that code be stored unless deleted?

[mrgizmo04]

Also under testing the jbe: it reads A6E4/not present fuel level sensor, left.

I had replaced starter months ago, but would that code be stored unless deleted?

Erase/clear all codes and rescan. Some of those codes might have been there for years.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[bmwdirtracer]

+1, to clearing and rescanning....and good job, getting the BMW specific scan tool.

The N-5x generation engines will start, with a bad crank sensor....after a long cranking time; and they will display the Service engine soon light, and set a crank sensor code, if that happens.

You need to be extremely careful, replacing this sensor: it can be installed at an incorrect angle, especially if the o-ring is incorrect, or old. Also, be really careful not to over tighten the bolt and break it. The electrical plug is also delicate, be careful.

I'm quite sure that a bad cam sensor will also cause a long cranking time, and should set a code pointing to exactly which cam sensor is bad.

After clearing all codes, drive the car half way around the block; shut it off, restart, and drive home and check the codes again. Act upon whatever codes you find then.

But by all means, replace the cheap crank sensor right away.

[Noop Noop]

Well I replaced the battery, car turned on, idling up and down, and after erasing the codes, I have some of the same codes.

1)
A0B4 CAS: engine start, starter operation.
2)
Engine-DME
2E7C: BSD data bus communication fault
3100: boost-pressure control, deactivation
2AA2: camshaft sensor, inlet, gap loss
2a9b: crankshaft-exhaust camshaft, synchronization
2acb/not present: DME master relay, activation
2e7c/present: BSD data bus communications fault

- - - Updated - - -

In addition, I keep hearing a buzzing sound, from the motor, just not sure if it's coming from the water pump (since I was leaking coolant, I replaced cracked radiator) and it just keeps turning on every time I turn the ignition to ON,
Or if it is coming from the motor.

[bmwdirtracer]

BSD refers to the alternator charging control via the DME (engine computer)

Boost pressure control deactivation means that the computer is putting the engine into limp mode, because some crucial piece of data is missing or incorrect.
Crankshaft to camshaft correlation means that the crankshaft to camshaft TIMING is wrong ! DANGER !
Inlet camshaft (Gap Loss), I have never seen, but I'd expect it means your timing chain is slapping around, especially in conjunction with the cam/crank correlation code.

The CAS (starter) code, I'd probably worry about after dealing with the cam / crank codes.

Have you been hearing a rattling from the valve cover?


I'd really have to suggest that you have the car towed to an excellent BMW specialist shop, and have them check the cam gear bolts, and the cam timing. If these codes reset right after you cleared them, you have a serious problem. There is a known issue of cam/vanos gear bolts breaking and coming loose. If you catch it in time, you can save yourself many thousands of dollars. If not, you bend all the valves.

I would advise against starting the engine again, sorry.

EDIT:
When you have the car towed to the shop, tell them your brother is a BMW technician, and told you to not start the engine because he thinks the cam gear bolts might be about to break. Don't tell them you read this on a forum.....brother.

[Noop Noop]

Yes I have heard a rattling, wasn't throwing any codes so I kept thinking it was normal.
With my luck, I'm sure I already messed something up.

Well the only thing I've done is turn on the car, but immediately turn off the car, because I didn't want to risk moving it in the condition it's in.

The tech I take it to was closed till tomorrow for holidays. I will make an appointment and will have to tow it there, and tell him about not starting the car.

[bmwdirtracer]

By the way, I have not seen this on a ~2007 engine, only on '08 and later. I'm hoping that ptarditi will correct me if I'm wrong, and this engine does not use the aluminum bolts here....but I think it does. The problem has continued at least though 2015, with several service bulletins on the subject.

[dworthy]

Chris, if it is a late 2007, sometimes they apply the YM-08 stuff to it. I have the same problem with my M-3 as it was built in 08/2004, but it has the updated 09/2004 and up stuff like the CCV for example.

OP, do not drive this car anymore, you will only do more damage, and that motor is expensive.