Hi there bimmer addicts, I'm a first time owner and I'll be honest... I wish I would've kept my Nissan! This car is gonna put me in the loony bin! First of all, please don't judge me cuz I'm a chick, I hate that! So here are my current and most aggravating issues. For several weeks the car has been running like shit, rough idle, lagging acceleration, high rpms before shifting, (its an automatic) just plain annoying, so I figure I have vacuum leaks, bad O2 sensors, etc.. So after taking all pertinent stuff out of engine i found several bad hoses (holes and squishyness) replaced those, found bad (broken) DISA valve, replaced intake boots, cleaned out idle control valve, etc, so the other night we put it back together started it and seemed to run/idle better, however didn't actually drive it. So, next morning I'm about to leave for work and when it started it only ran a few seconds then died and hasn't started since! Just cranks but no start. And I smell fuel when I stop cranking. I NEED HELP! is this fuel related? Relay? Pump? Filter? Fuse? I'm about to check in to the nut house because of this damn car.
Welcome to the forum and life with an older German car. Start with checking fault codes. I'm sure you have some since your car was running like shit. There may be many. Clear the faults and try to start it a couple of times and recheck for codes. If no fault codes return after attempting to start the car, check fuel pressure. Fuel pumps are a common problem. If it's the pump you are lucky because it's one of the easiest to replace.
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Is your check engine light on? If so, what are the codes? If not, you should check the fuel pressure. It's pretty easy to test and you can get a fuel pressure tester from any one of the auto parts chains for $20-$40.
If no codes, and if If fuel pressure checks out okay, then I'd check compression to see if you have a blown head gasket.
Good luck, and report back here.
The first step in diagnosing a problem is to scan the engine computer (DME in BMWeze) andvthe tranny computer (EGS) for codes. The SES light is on only when an emissions related code is present. I’d also have the intake smoke tested. This will find all of the leakS. I’d pull the spark plugs and let the fuel evaporate. Also, check the fuel pressure. Item #2 in the link is the cap on the fuel pressure test valve. Pressure has to be at least 50psi at all engine speeds.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=13_0900
Check engine light never comes on, I don't even know where it is or what it looks like, however a couple weeks ago when it was running I had the following codes : P0313 (2 of those), P0455, P0505, P0741, P0102. They have since been cleared, but I don't have a code reader and I can't get anywhere to have them read again. On the fuel rail there is something that looks like a a valve stem where you put air in your tires, anyway I pressed that thing and fuel came out of it, so does that mean my fuel pump is working?
How do I do the fuel pressure test?
According to my manual, Google, and you tube my fuel pump is located under my back seat??? Hell I can't even get the damn seat out to even look at it!!!
There’s a test valve on the fuel rail under the black, plastic cover on the top of the engine. Item #2 in the link is the cap for the test valve.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=13_0900
OK so today I removed the fuel filter and I noticed the thin plastic fuel line that runs from the filter up to the mass air flow boot connector seems to be plugged up, (I couldn't blow thru it at all) but when the gas drained from the filter I was really expecting nasty stuff to come out all blackish etc, but it was really clean, would that filter still be good?? Help.... Please!!!!
These cars have plastic tanks and modern gas stations also use plastic lined tanks. This means that fuel filters dont really plug up like they used to when gas was stored in metal tanks and metal tanks in the cars.
That being said, the filter still breaks down over time, and these cars also have the fuel pressure regulator built into the filter, which also deteriorates. Its worthwhile maintenance to replace the filter if its an unknown.
Current:
- 09 335i MSport, FBO.
- 98 Euro M3, Estoril Blue
- 04 M3, Carbon Black, 6 Speed Coupe
- 06 M5, Black on Black, Full Leather.
- 73 3.0CS, Tagia Green, 5 speed M30b35 converted
Ex's: 1984 325e, 1988 325IX, 1992 525I, 1995 540i/6, 2002 330i, 2005 330xi, 1992 850i, 2003 330i #1, 2003 330i #2, 2002 330ci, 2004 330ci, 2007 328CI, 2007 335i, 2001 M3, 2006 M5 6 speed
Obviously the fuel filter needs to be changed. Buy a filter made by either Mahle or Keyser. Both supply filters to BMW. The plastic tube is used to detect when the car is being driven at high altitudes. It goes to the “F” connector on the upper intake hose.
What part of Oklahoma are you located?
Many of the auto parts stores will rent out tools for free. You basically buy the tool and have 48 hours to return it to them for a full refund. You could rent a fuel pressure tester to check that side of things. It threads onto that fuel rail schrader valve. You might also try cranking it with the MAF sensor unplugged to test that. Also check to make sure the intake boot is on correctly, that smaller bit loves to come out of place.
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