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Bought a remote starter switch to crank engine while checking for spark or injector pulse. Never used one of these. So, where do I connect it?
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You got your car running? was it the DME?
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Did you buy the special BMW one that plugs into the circular diagnostic plug, or a generic clip on?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Jg3T0KilyQ
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I bought a generic one from bavauto.com that clips on. Where do I buy the BMW one that you mentions?Originally Posted by gc325is
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where do I buy the BMW one?
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I cleaned the DME and it still did not start. I also picked up another DME but have not yet tried it.
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I don't think a generic one will work for what you want to do. Jogging or cranking the starter will not make the DME squirt gas or give spark.
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Will the car crank when you turn the key?
Was any work done on the car just before the problem started?
Not very familiar with obd1 so 2 questions below—
Does this year car have a clutch interrupt switch or is it an auto with a brake interrupt switch?
Do the obd1 cars not light up the check engine light in key 2 position when there is an ews/ecu issue or is that just obd2?
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1994 OBD1 US spec 325 have a check engine light and do flash codes
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Apparently +20 year old parts are hard to find or google too.
These may not work on newer cars since valve adjustment went out with the E3
Last edited by gc325is; 11-19-2017 at 12:03 AM.
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The car cranks. On a couple of occasions, it actually started, but then stalled immediately.
Earlier this year the headgasket was replaced.
The car is a manual and does have a clutch switch.
I have never been able to use the pedal stomp method to pull codes.
I did read codes recently with a peak code reader and the only code that came up was one for the throttle position sensor.
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Appreciate the pic, but do you have any idea where I can buy one or do you have a part #?Apparently +20 year old parts are hard to find or google too.
These may not work on newer cars since valve adjustment went out with the E3
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I have a feeling that even that BMW starter switch will not do what you want, unless someone else knows for sure.
If you were able to get a throttle position code, then you should manually test the TPS.
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Sounds like you need proper diagnostics, ADS interface and INPA
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So it ran fine after the HG change and nothing was touched until the no start condition?
Do you have fuel? Pull the rail out of the manifold and let it spray into a tray if needed.
Do you have spark? Pull a coil and put a plug in it and let it ground to the head and watch for spark while someone else cranks.
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Just came from car. It ran fine after headgasket job till I had a feul hose leak at the back of the fuel rail line. That was fixed. Drove car until this latest no-start issue. I checked alternator and starter today. Here is what I found.
Open circuit voltage is 12v. Turned lights on for about 1 min. disconnected neg. battery terminal and checked voltage across battery terminals.12v. also found 12v between B+ terminal at alternator and ground(direct voltage from battery). Between terminal D and ground only 1.8v with ignition on.
Starter has 12v at large red wire directly from battery. No voltage at terminal 50 at starter with ignition on. This is the skinnier of the 2 small wires. It is the one located closer to the inside of the starter on the side of the . This is making me think I have a faulty ignition switch.
Last edited by TITE3NBIGD; 11-19-2017 at 06:49 PM.
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You should see 12v when someone is at the CRANKING position not just with the ignition on.. And its probably the medium wire, the smallest one is just for feedback or something like that.
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12.0V is too low. You want 12.6V.
Any chance you changed a relay? Beware they may look similar but cannot he swapped around since some differ internally and can short the wiring if the wrong one is swapped in. If this is a possibility open the coal wiring tray and poke around for shorted melted wires.
Faulty ignition switch is possible. Early ones often fail.
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Remotes starter was designed for older cars with adjustable valve shims like the E30.
It may be in some of the early E36 but looks like the OBD II variation removed this option and damage may occur if you attempt this on a non compatible car. Probably also why the data was removed from most sites.
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If you see 12.0V when cranking that means the battery is good, there will be a drop when the battery is loaded, a bad battery when cranking would read 11V something. A battery at 12V at the battery terminals means the battery is towards the end of its life. A new battery reads 12.6 at the terminals.
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Or the E46 S54
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Or newer direct injection cars so you can bump the starter to close the valves in the intake chamber you are scraping and blasting to remove the goo and carbon buildup that occurs since no fuel is sprayed down the manifold runners and into the chambers and onto on the back of the valves.
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Pin 11 use to be the starter connection. (OBD II cars seems to be the start of the deletion of this pin)
The rumor is a switch from 14 to 11 will activate the starter on some cars. USE at your own risk! Reply back if it works. Could also be non US cars... RU = Russia
https://www.ds-sv.org/e36-diagnostic...iring-diagram/
Last edited by gc325is; 11-22-2017 at 09:40 PM.
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For starter you just need to jump the starter terminals — battery and spade.
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Thanks,
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Update on no-start issue. Today I plugged in DME from junkyard. The car started up right away. I did discover however the negative cable at the battery was loose. I am glad that car is running again. I have to figure out if it was the DME or the loose wire. I am going to put the original DME back and then try and start the car. If it starts I will know it was the wire, if not I will know it was the DME. Just glad it is running again.
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Open up the DME and take some quality pictures and post them for us.
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