'99 2.8 Roadster not running right (details inside)

[RedconOne]

Cable and adaptor were about $10 USD when I bought them this summer. Easily paid for themselves many times over as I worked on a few issues on my new to me 2000 M Roadster. And the software is free (doesn’t get any better than that...thanks to those who developed and shared it).

Not to hijack the thread, but @TallyHo322, do you have a link to the cable you bought that definitely works? Been down this path with a VAG-compatible cable and the cheap one I bought was worthless. Thanks!

[JKuhn]

UPDATE: I poked around the engine bay this morning, and found the bottom (or side) pipe on the EVAP purge valve is broken clean off (and I saw signs that a previous owner glued it back on). Stealership only, I temporarily disconnected the power line (a mechanic said that should keep it closed to prevent leaks). But that also makes me wonder about the other stuff under the manifold.

So considering that (and the fact that funds are limited right now), will it be of use if I arrange with an exhaust shop so they can help me look at the pipes, etc from underneath? Or will the manifold have to come off?

[deni2s]

Not to hijack the thread, but @TallyHo322, do you have a link to the cable you bought that definitely works? Been down this path with a VAG-compatible cable and the cheap one I bought was worthless. Thanks!

First search result with right keywords (you can find it cheaper): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-INPA-...n/232435271520

[Tallyho322]

Not to hijack the thread, but @TallyHo322, do you have a link to the cable you bought that definitely works? Been down this path with a VAG-compatible cable and the cheap one I bought was worthless. Thanks!

I went to this link, from the original post in the thread, and picked one of the alternatives since this one was no longer active. Read the specs for the original and try to pick one that matches. I can’t find my purchase on eBay but I am pretty sure that is where I bought it.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/272510048522

dont forget you also need the 20 pin to ODBC adaptor...
https://www.ebay.com/p/20-Pin-to-Obd....c100011.m1850

On edit...this is the cable. You can buy it cheaper, but I think this is a sure thing...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/291675297967



Good luck,

Greg

[RedconOne]

Awesome, thanks for the info! Just for S/G, I am going to try out both my eBay VAGCOM cable as well as my Ross-Tech VCDS cable, once I procure the 20-pin connector.

[deni2s]

I believe any cable with FTDI FT232RL chipset is good. Sometimes software it's shipped with is not right, but you can dig it out online... If I remember right, the latest drivers have protection against fake FTDI FT232RL chipset, but previous versions should work fine.

[LannVouivre]

I don't think it's a fuel pressure issue...

I believe Randy rf900rkw said in another thread that the I4 manifold has to come off to replace the vacuum hoses and such underneath. It was in one of the recent ones on this first age of threads.

[JKuhn]

I don't think it's a fuel pressure issue...

I believe Randy rf900rkw said in another thread that the I4 manifold has to come off to replace the vacuum hoses and such underneath. It was in one of the recent ones on this first age of threads.

You said there that the I4 manifold needs to come off. Do you mean I4 as in 4cyl? Because this is a 2.8. I'm just wondering if it'll be cheaper and less time consuming to do it from underneath.

Regarding the fuel pressure, I'm taking note of that, but it'll probably be cheap enough to just test and either confirm or rule it out.

Off-topic, I was busy typing when my GPU decided to cut out. THIS is why I let my computer run 24/7 (or at least until Escom decides to switch it off for me).

[LannVouivre]

For some reason I thought you had the I4.

I'm able to replace almost every last thing under the intake manifold without pulling it. The only things I think might not be possible are the coolant pipes, but I didn't check. There are some things you can only manipulate properly with a specific hand, so if you don't have full use of at least the thumb and index finger on each hand, you might need to get help from someone that does. Specifically, the topmost hose on the oil separator is not going to come off in one piece if you can't press the release points hard enough and pull it straight back with the left hand.

[JKuhn]

By the top hose, do you mean the one from the head (above the VANOS)? Because I already replaced that one, but I had to break the clip on the old one with a screwdriver (my thumb didn't fit between the clip and manifold). To check/replace the hoses underneath, should I approace them from underneath, or pull other parts and reach them from above?

And regarding that mistake on what engine I have, these things happen. But speaking of which, I'm not even sure if the 4cyl models sold here in ZA. I only see 6cyl ones (wide hip, twin exhaust). I did see a single exhaust once (from a distance) while driving past), but I suspect that was aftermarket.

[LannVouivre]

11611440317The top hose is the one that goes between the intake runners and joins with the hose that runs across the runners. The big hose from the valve cover actually connects to the bottom of the separator.

You have to remove the DISA and all the intake to throttle body duct, then you just reach under and between. If you release the top hose from the other pipes it connects to, you'll get much more slack to play with.

BUT I think you were primarily referring to the vacuum hoses, so I'm going to come back to those. I think that your '99 will be the M52tu version, like mine. Dual VANOS. I'm linking to the USA version of the roady, as well. I don't remember if you gave any specifics or posted the last 7 of your VIN or not, and I have to take my fiance to the barber so I can't check just now. If I'm using the wrong information, at least the following is useful to M52tu owners.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...agId=11_6225Ok, so here are the small and more universal ones. The check valve will be under the manifold and I think closer to the head. If you get it out, it will probably be marked West Germany, so if you get a kick out of such things, look for that...lol. (NOTE: Pierburg still hasn't retooled the mold, so the new ones also say W. Germany.) If the hoses are crusty with a nasty gummy and gooey feeling under the crust, they're bad. And also extremely gross. Just make sure you have the 3.5mm hose (heavy wall, to prevent collapse under vacuum) on hand, because vacuum hose can also be brittle when it's old and just break if you so much as look at it too suddenly. There's also an emissions tube that is between the air injection valve's hose and the hose going to the check valve. It'll have an outside diameter of 3.5mm and I wiped some RTV around the ends where I slipped it into the vacuum hoses.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=11_2682
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=34_0549
Here we have the routing of the brake booster vacuum hoses. The end that goes under the manifold is an absolute nightmare. Its gasket is a red grommet BMW calls "compression collar." p/n 11611440050 brake booster end p/n 34336765316
The "jet sucking pump" (a vacuum venturi, which uses vacuum supply via the intake duct to accelerate/boost the vacuum supply to the brake booster) has two "halves" to it. The upper nipple that goes to the brake booster can be broken out along with its flange, so be careful with it. You can bypass the venturi and go straight from the booster to the manifold, but the hoses are not the same size and it feels dirty. I had to bypass mine and totally forgot all about it!

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=11_6221
Coming back to the intake manifold end of things, you have the idle air control valve IACV grommet p/n 11611437453 The picture on BMW's parts diagrams is deceiving, it has a bit of hose that goes up inside the manifold plenum.
The o-ring for the air temperature sensor is p/n 13621743299 dimensions 8x3 mm
Ridiculously overpriced DISA o-ring p/n 11617504543
O-rings for the pressure equalizer that connects all 6 intake manifold runners p/n 11617502761 There are 6 of these, dimensions 7x3 mm

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=11_6220
Here's the diagram of the oil separator as well. Try not to mess with it unless you determine it's leaking from something. By the way, if it's covered in oil film or dripping oil, I'm fairly sure it's not supposed to be like that! Since it's a massive PITA to deal with that top hose, I'm going to say that if you have to replace it, get the BMW upper hose and separator at the very least. The other bits are much easier to replace, but the hose p/n 11611440317 / 11617504535 makes both itself and the separator so fucking annoying that my heart rate just shot up and I'm starting to clench my teeth. To release these hoses, you have to press down on the parts of the clamping rings that don't have the connecting tabs that attach them to the hoses. This pushes the locking tabs away from the connection nipples. You may need to gently twist the hoses and push them towards the parts they connect to so that you can get the locking teeth to clear the nipple flanges and release. While you are pinching them open, you have to basically move them straight back and away. I don't know how to make this easier, honestly. Cleaning them and lubricating with silicone spray might help, also with installation. I don't think you need to pinch open the locking tabs when you install the hoses, but it might make them pop on easier. Make sure both locking tabs are flat, that will mean they're fully seated.

[JKuhn]

Thanks for the info, I'll look more closely at it when I have a chance.

You're right, I do have the M52TU engine. And no, I haven't posted my VIN (I understand it's useful for getting accurate info, but to be honest I'm hesitant to give such details out).

Oh, and before I forget. To take the DISA out, should I take any precautions? It doesn't rattle, but I'm aware that the DISA can fall apart and write the engine off (a big no-thanks).

[328 Power 04]

Then post the 4, 5, 6, and 7th byte of your vin (identifies car type, engine, and transmission), and month/year production, and it will be enough.

[JKuhn]

Let there be life!

Thread resurrection aside, I finally came to the conclusion that the only way to fix the car is to do it myself (with some help, I should be able to do it this weekend). It seems no mechanic out there is going to fix the car for me.

What hoses will I need, to replace the stuff under the manifold? Sorry if it was mentioned earlier, but I can't remember. I'm also a bit busy nowadays, so I'd rather not spend a lot of time on here when I have work to do.

EDIT: I've been told the only way is to go to BMW and buy a set of vacuum lines. Is this true? I know there are a couple special hoses, but most of them should be normal vacuum pipes? Keep in mind doing so will aparrantly cost a significant portion of my salary.

[deni2s]

EDIT: I've been told the only way is to go to BMW and buy a set of vacuum lines. Is this true? I know there are a couple special hoses, but most of them should be normal vacuum pipes? Keep in mind doing so will aparrantly cost a significant portion of my salary.

You can find cheaper alternatives for some of them, but probably not for all of them. Vacuum pipes are not the most expensive ones. I don't know, but it seems to me, you can't afford to maintain BMW, unless you have a plan to increase your income, in your place I would start thinking of selling this car and buy something more affordable...

[JKuhn]

My income should increase a bit soon, and significantly later on. But for now I'm getting peanuts. The rigid hoses cost less than what I was told, but it's still a bit problematic at this stage.

You're right that the vacuum lines (meaning normal rubber ones) won't be a problem. But I'm concerned about the rigid ones, since they all add up (plus they're order only, and I can't order now and install this weekend). I also visited BMW and asked on Facebook, it looks like I might be able to make a plan (depending on available hose sizes). Otherwise I'll have to study how everything comes together so I can replace the rigid ones later.

EDIT: Just to clarify, I made a total career change, and I'm currently a trade learner So currently that means minimal pay.

[JKuhn]

I just replaced the cam sensor yesterday (long weekend between shifts, and I managed to save up).

Que Marty's reaction when he drove the EJ25 Beetle (for those who know what I'm talking about).

Also, the vacuum lines (done when I planned) also made a difference. Next up is the starter.