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Thread: Valve Adjustment - Accidentally Removed Crank bolt

  1. #1
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    Valve Adjustment - Accidentally Removed Crank bolt

    Hey guys, I did a valve adjustment and needless to say - I messed up.

    So, I have a few questions regarding the valve adjustment.

    I adjusted the valves to 0.10 and there were a few videos on youtube that I followed as a guide.

    One wanted it to allow you to be able to move the feeler gauge in circles
    Another wanted it to allow you to have a slight drag
    And one more wanted you to tighten it so it has a bit of conflict like when youre pulling it out its not easy but not hard.

    So, I asked my friend and he said some track e30s valve adjust to 0.06 so its okay if its tight vs loose

    Is he correct?

    I adjusted it so when I pull it, there is resistance but its not completely stuck and it is easy to pull out but not too easy

    Anyway, heres where I messed up.
    I put it all back together and turned the engine over - completely forgetting to remove the socket/ratchet I used to turn the engine over.

    By turning it over and letting it run for 20 seconds the crank bolt came out. The harmonic balancer and all belts are still on but now the crank bolt is out. Do I just tighten it back? I couldnt find the specs online for the torque rating. How do I go about tightening it back?

    Is my engine okay?

    when I ran it for 10-20 seconds there was alot more ticking than it used to have (which some people on r3v complain about after valve adjusting so im sure I will need to do it again)

    My main concern is 1) torque rating for crank bolt 2) is engine ok 3) any procedures I should take?

    Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
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    No e30s, again :(
    if the bolt just tightens back in, put it back in. I hope the threads did not get messed up but until you put it in, you won't know. I do not know the torque value though.

    valve adjustment is something you just have to do a few times to get the "feel" for. that drag, the tightness that you feel when pulling out the feeler, is something that no one can tell you is perfect, its just something you have to develop with experience. .1 tight and .1 loose are both ways you can set that and that is where it is your "feel" that will teach you if you are a natural "tight" or a natural "loose" drag person.

    you are good though, reading what you wrote on the drag. it sounds fine
    No e30s again.

  3. #3
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    The crank bolt torque spec is 302 lb-ft. You will need a very large breaker bar, 1/2" minimum and a few feet long, and then you may need to put a jack handle over it. You can also rent large torque wrenches or breaker bars (like 3/4") from most auto parts stores. I recommend some thread lock as well.
    Last edited by sienayr; 11-17-2017 at 10:13 AM.

  4. #4
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    On valve adjustment, you don't want it too tight. Better to hear clicking than be too tight and burn out a valve. Like others have said, the M20 engine has a tendency to clatter. When valve parts wear it's difficult to get a really accurate measurement.

  5. #5
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    Thanks for the advice guys.

    I had to remove the crank bolt on a honda civic before when I was doing the timing belt on that car. The setup was a 1/2 inch extension coming out of the wheel well and then turning it with a 1/2 inch ratchet attached to a jack pipe. - When I tightened I turned it 90 degrees until it clicked several times.

    However, this time, I dont have that type of clearance. Do I just start from the left side of the engine bay, tighten to the right, then push back, repeat until it clicks several times? Is it possible to over tighten? Or should I just do as much as possible?

  6. #6
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    I used a half inch breaker bar with jack handle and thread lock and pulled on that sucker with everything I had till it wouldn’t move any further.

    I should add I had the radiator pulled out so clearance wasn’t an issue.

    One thing I’m not sure of is if the e30 crank bolts are stretch bolts like some of the newer cars have. If so they really shouldn’t be re-used.

  7. #7
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    The crank bolt can be reused as long as it's not damaged. When i replaced mine I had the pulley holding tool a 3/4" breaker bar and my jack handle as a 4ft extension bar. Even then it took a fair amount of effort to get it to 300lbs. Thread locker is not needed as it could make it a bear to remove.

    as for valves you really don't want to go tighter then spec with anything but a very fresh head (i.e. new guides). Either way .006 is too tight
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeffnhiscars View Post
    Thread locker is not needed as it could make it a bear to remove.
    I use the “red neck” method and let the starter do the work for me on that lol

  9. #9
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    Not how I'd do it but you can use the starter to break the crank nut free. Tightening it is another story !!
    87 Zinno Cabrio 98k Barn Find. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=268987
    87 Lachsilber ETA Time Capsule. bought w 125k from 87yo original owner

    Cabrio deck lid & hinge struts (w sleeves) now for sale. See the link below for more info

    New "made in Europe" seat shocks. PM for details
    http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ot-Seat-Shocks

  10. #10
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    Hi Guys! I let the e30 sit for a while because of school and exams and I got around to working on the car today. I did the timing belt for a honda civic previously and I was curious if there is a "key" for the crank bolt.

    The attached image has an arrow pointing towards the key for the honda civic labeled in the diagram.

    804722540_1640614758134595797.jpg

    I put my hands in the grooves to see if there was a space for a key and there was a small "square" cutout and I believe the key goes there? Am I correct? I tried to feel around for it but had no luck doing so.

    Many thanks


    As the comment written by Jeffnhiscars he used a crank pulley tool.

    Do I need a crank pulley tool? I read on r3v that someone put the car in 5th gear and tightened the bolt.

    "If the car is a 5 speed just leave the car in gear (5th gear) wheels on the ground. I've removed and tightened crank bolts that way plenty of times. If its an Auto you'll either need a counter holding tool or impact gun"

    https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=304697
    Last edited by Siebenthal; 11-30-2017 at 01:12 AM.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Siebenthal View Post
    Do I need a crank pulley tool? I read on r3v that someone put the car in 5th gear and tightened the bolt.
    I did it that way, but I also had someone sitting in the car pressing on the brakes, minimizes movement as you get some rocking even when the car is in gear.

    You can also use a piece of steel that you can drill holes into that line up with the bolts on the crank pulley, long enough to wedge against the ground. That's what the crank pulley tool that you buy does. For instance I've heard of people using bed frame rails.
    Last edited by sienayr; 11-30-2017 at 02:30 PM.

  12. #12
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    Did everything end up being okay!? the same thing happened to me !

  13. #13
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    No e30s, again :(
    It is ok. It happens to lots of people. Just put it back together

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by 88bimmyvert View Post
    Did everything end up being okay!? the same thing happened to me !
    oh no lol.

    just put it back on. you might not be able to torque it all the back way to 300ft/lbs. it's not a deal breaker.

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