I have enjoyed a 96 e36 M3 for several years since moving to California, always wanting to do an LS1 swap. After speaking with a BAR referee, it seems possible, and I'm up for a good challenge. He mentioned talk of it soon becoming illeagle to swap an engine from a different make, and to do my swap quickly. I wanted to do all the Track-related prep first, but now the engine swap has become priority. Basically, everything that connected to the stock LS1 PCM must exist in it's original form. Once i get past the ref, I have some leeway, and have HP tuners Pro to advance the build somewhat :P
I will be running stock camaro intake and exhaust manifolds, cats, and intake. Building a 3-joint steering shaft around the drivers' side exhaust.
I sourced a complete LS1/T56 combo from Craigslist from a 2002 Camaro Z28. Although capable of fabbing, I purchased engine mounts and trans x-member from CXracing. Welds are crap, but they'll do for now.
Many parts have come in, several engine test fits have occured, and am currently working on relocating the ABS.
I'm still working on embedding google drive pics properly without clicking, but here ya go:
Here's the car:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/17fh...ew?usp=sharing
Engine and T56 as recieved:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ph...CkSnHKI6LBYILZ
Old motor out. Good motor, kind of a pity:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1nw...VUD2xJj9-CdZeP
LS test fit #1:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Xg...ojuWM4fRGGcpvd
Garage shot:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1-Q...T3aPoJkaZ1BOsr
I intend to weld all seams eventually, so I welded the ones that will be covered up by the ABS while I was in there tonight.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1-Q...T3aPoJkaZ1BOsr
Last edited by profplum; 11-18-2017 at 04:21 PM.
Finished extending the ABS wiring 22". I used a segment of twisted pair wire from an old VSS harness for the twisted pair coming from the ABS motor.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1FQ..._kCgOlKktG4OuD
2017-11-20 08.42.13.jpg
Received the Flaming River u-joints for the steering. Looked like a tight fit around the exhaust manifold. I will be moving the firewall-end of the steering column over slightly, and will shim the whole steering column towards the driver about 1/4".
https://drive.google.com/open?id=13d...zKeI1-1Cajslod
2017-11-20 08.46.23.jpg
Last edited by profplum; 11-20-2017 at 12:13 PM.
Hmm... first I've heard of that, not sure if I'd believe it. DMV documentation hasn't changed since I got my E36 S54 swap legal - https://www.bar.ca.gov/Industry/Engi...uidelines.html.
S54 swap DME flashing - $100
S54 swap CAN interface board (for proper A/C & check engine light) - $275
e36 SAP sim/secondary air pump simulator: $75 - standard or $170 - plug & play
e36 post-cat O2 sims: $115 shipped, plug & play
It's legal. This counts as an engine change in the guidelines you shared (and I am previously familiar with). Plenty of people have done other swaps (Jeep crowd), its just not fun or cheap.
The engine has to have come from a same or newer year vehicle, and be the same class of vehicle. No 5.3L truck swaps into cars, for example. All emissions components from the donor car must be fitted to the BMW and fully operational. They will look at the car as if it was the donor car, and smog it as such. Once (if) it passes, the BAR Ref puts a tag near the driver door latch so it can be smogged at any local shop after that point.
S54 swap DME flashing - $100
S54 swap CAN interface board (for proper A/C & check engine light) - $275
e36 SAP sim/secondary air pump simulator: $75 - standard or $170 - plug & play
e36 post-cat O2 sims: $115 shipped, plug & play
Ah - I told the Ref that I planned to wait to swap until my next smog was due 8 months from now. It was his opinion that cross-make swaps wouldn't be allowed forever, and he told me not to wait. It is supposedly under discussion within BAR. Regardless, I'm going to get this car smog-ready quickly. Hopefully I'll be speaking to him in person next month and get some clarification!
Thanks, please let me know what he says.
BTW - I've had *very* different experiences at ref stations. The first one I went to was unpleasant to deal with and failed me for some silly reasons. I ended up passing after I went to a different one, the guys there were really cool.
S54 swap DME flashing - $100
S54 swap CAN interface board (for proper A/C & check engine light) - $275
e36 SAP sim/secondary air pump simulator: $75 - standard or $170 - plug & play
e36 post-cat O2 sims: $115 shipped, plug & play
The Ref I talked to was a jerk; kept quoting "these are my guidelines," and my reply was "and these are the laws, could you please follow the laws?"
California law makes a legal difference between "vehicle," and "motor-vehicle"
Also, the laws are written so that a business can't do swaps, but states nothing of a person.
when a person does a swap thier bound to the health and safety laws ie, your motor-vehicle can not be a "gross polluter,."
And that leads right into
§ 39032.5. "Gross polluter"
"Gross polluter" means a vehicle with excess hydrocarbon, carbon monoxide, or oxides of nitrogen emissions as established by the department in consultation with the state board.
And across the board no matter the engine size BAR has Gross polluter as
ASM 5015 Standards
Gross Polluter Hydrocarbon:271 Carbon Monoxide:2 Nitric Oxide:1918
Last edited by erikerikerik; 11-21-2017 at 05:37 PM.
I'm going to try to play by "their" rules first. I have not found any laws that back up some of the smog ref claims, so I understand where you're coming from. The couple Refs in my area seem decent to work with.
I slotted the steering column attachment slots by 1/4". New bolts tacked into the firewall. Got the engine back in for steering shaft mock up.
2017-11-21 16.56.21.jpg2017-11-21 16.55.05.jpg
Running the shaft over the O2 sensor makes for some steep u-joint angles. Not a big fan.
2017-11-21 16.53.49.jpg
Shaft under the o2 is tight. The collector flange would also interfere with the center u-joint during acceleration engine torque.
2017-11-21 16.52.57.jpg
I don't think the Ref will let me relocate an O2 sensor, so at this point I am leaning towards the following solution:
-Run shaft under the 02 sensor
-milling about 0.125" off the manifold-head surface
-cutting about .5" off the corner of the collector flange, then drilling and threading a new bolt hole.
So, for the O2 sensor you just actually need it in someplace appropriate. This is because you will have to have an exhaust system custom made.
Last edited by profplum; 11-22-2017 at 06:25 PM.
S54 swap DME flashing - $100
S54 swap CAN interface board (for proper A/C & check engine light) - $275
e36 SAP sim/secondary air pump simulator: $75 - standard or $170 - plug & play
e36 post-cat O2 sims: $115 shipped, plug & play
I angle milled the driver exhaust manifold. It worked out to about .130" off the back, and about .080" off the front. Helped a ton with steering fitment. I love having a CNC machine in my garage! I spent a couple hours trying to fixture it, and the best way was just smashed in the vise.
2017-11-22 22.43.27.jpg
2017-11-22 22.41.49.jpg
There's a nice gap around the u-joint at the steering column now. I shaved about .5" off the outside of the collector flanges. New bolt holes were drilled and tapped. I just have to find a way to copy the hole to the gaskets without annihilating them (they're so soft). The ABS mounts are welded in. Not pretty. Welded it blind as my welding helmet battery died.
2017-11-22 22.45.52.jpg
2017-11-22 22.48.28.jpg
I had to chop a section out of the passenger side frame rail for exhaust flange clearance as the engine is offset to that side a bit. What a mess. It's going to be fun to box in and reinforce properly.
20171122_210241 (1).jpg
Catalytic converters have been test fit, they required being cut off from flanges and angled a little.
on other forums people have used after market headers and had the O2 plugs welded in and passed CARB.
juuuust in case you hit the wall of "this is crap!" even though I'm liking the progress!
Thanks it can be hard to stay motivated. I doubt anyone has made it past a Ref with headers that don't have an EO number. A smog shop, maybe, but the Refs know their stuff. I'm hoping to do this in a manner that could be passed anywhere. Everyone says it couldnt be done with stock manifolds, which made want to prove that wrong.
I've only seen one other build intending to do so, and never heard if that ever got completed.
This comes down to the ref and many points of contention.
As you ground the headers to pass, you already failed by altering the distance that the E.G. must travel.
I read but as long as your making as factory looking as possible you should be good.
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I used a segment of an old driveshaft (.083 wall) to box in the frame. I cut a notch in it so it could be welded to the inside center portion of the frame rail also.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_AX...ew?usp=sharing
exhaust_frame_clearance_hole.jpg
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gGE...ew?usp=sharing
frame_hole_welded.jpg
Both catalytic converters were cut off from their surrounding tubing and re-attached in an orientation that would fit in the car. A short S-bend was required to snake around the starter. The required original positions were maintained close enough. I may shorten up the pre-cat passenger side later, as the lowest bend hangs below the chassis about 3/4" or so.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/13_5...ew?usp=sharing
cats_welded.jpg
Last edited by profplum; 12-06-2017 at 02:06 AM.
The shifter was torn down, cleaned and re-lubed. A new mount was welded on to get it in a good center position.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jio...ew?usp=sharing
shifter&cutout.jpg
Driveshaft was built by Performance Driveline in Bakersfield, CA. Done within 2 days of dropping off the JTR flange. The guy building it said that the JTR flange was just a Toyota flange. I'm not sure if JTR machines the backside centering ring for the diff-side. May require investigation...
https://drive.google.com/file/d/19X5...ew?usp=sharing
new_driveshaft.jpg
New fuel filter installed with Dorman QD fittings, and CARB legal FI fuel hose. EVAP line spliced with 5/16 low pressure fuel line.
The steering bearing mount got some reinforcement welded on and painted. The marking dye was to see how far the nut had moved during some mockup.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fKn...ew?usp=sharing
fuel_evap_lines_run.jpg
I did not like having rubber fuel line right next to the cat, so I made an aluminum heat shield from an old stop sign.
ABS lines were all extended with 20" pieces.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/101n...ew?usp=sharing
fuel_line_heatshield.jpg
The GM AIR pump was attached to the BMW pump mount with some all-thread and some new holes drilled.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OU7...ew?usp=sharing
air_pump_mod.jpg
Well I can tell you one thing, you just failed, you can’t lengthen position of the cats or modified them in anyway
98 Estoril ///M3 4/6
S54 swap CSL
I had read that so long as they are within 3" of original location it's fine. The drivers side was only rotated and looks factory. Pass side is a couple inches longer pre-cat. I had a truck with cobbled-together exhaust and (proper) aftermarket cat pass the Bar ref fine last year. That cat was several inches off, as I have 2 of the same truck. If it doesn't fly, I'll change it and go back for another test.
Very interesting approach to doing a BAR legal swap. Can't say I'd have gone this route, but I commend your work thus far and am looking forward to seeing your experience with the REF.
IT RUNS!
I built a timer circuit to simulate the 50hz signal of the BCM. It runs fine with the factory PCM calibration.
The wiring is mostly completed. Just need to wire up the fan relay and a couple little bits.
I completed the exhaust work and installed the full exhaust in the car. I used the BMW fittings and hangar from after the BMW cats. Those pipes are tiny- even in relation to the 2.25" i ran from the cats (stock camaro size). Works for now.
Exhaust midsection.jpg
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_1l...ew?usp=sharing
The Camaro air filter assembly was not gonna fit. No way. So I bought the CARB-approved K&N. (ouch $) That either had to go above the radiator core support temporarily for BAR testing, or drop the radiator to go under.
Camaro air intake.jpg
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Qna...ew?usp=sharing
I called the Bar Referee again to see if i could come in without a hood, and they said no. They enacted a rule for that because too many Jeep LS swaps were coming in without hoods or without a fender to fit one of the stock truck intake systems. Here's pics of some test fitting:
Air filter up.jpg Air filter down 2.jpg Air filter down 1.jpg
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1A-x...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ok4...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1x8-...ew?usp=sharing
I fabricated some new mounts to drop the radiator a few inches. I attached a flex-a-lite 16" puller fan to the back of the radiator. No way to make the BMW one fit nicely in front anymore.
The Ref is also requiring that I get a printout from a Chevy dealer that says I have a Factory tune on it. It took several calls to several dealers to find one willing to connect their equipment to a hacked-up non-GM vehicle. I eventually found one after speaking to the shop foreman for a min. I have an appointment with them Wednesday 12-20-17. So, It will be driving by then! *crosses fingers*
I have an appointment with the BAR Ref 12-22-17 to get it's "engine change verification"
Last edited by profplum; 12-16-2017 at 07:47 PM.
How did it go ?
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