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Thread: Got a "New" 1994 325is

  1. #1
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    1994 BMW 325is

    Got a "New" 1994 325is

    I had a 1970's 320i and a 80's 325 about two decades ago. I needed something to drive for winter as I only have motorcycles, so I picked up a 1994 325is last weekend.

    It's Black/Tan Interior with 97k miles. I searched around for a while to find one with relatively low miles. Other than the standard valve cover gasket seep and a seeping lower radiator drain plug it has been pretty well maintained. It had new cooling system components, new tires and battery, shocks, brakes and belts etc. One family owned it, and were going to give it to their 16 year old son until they checked insurance rates.

    I have all of the fluids to change the oil, trans, and diff and that will be done this weekend. Once I go over maintenance with a fine tooth comb over the next few weeks, I will take care of the minor cosmetic issues. It had taken a small bump to the grill panel, which looks like about $42. It also has a few pinky sized dings here and there. I do body work so I will slick all of that out (without using plastic filler), and will paint it in the spring. The hood is faded, but with a couple of stages of wet sanding with 3M Trizact followed by a couple more stages of buffing (Fine Cut Cleaner - Swirl Remover - Teflon Wax) it will work out to be passable as shown in one of the pics.

    My first car was a 240z, so I appreciate a car that has a good inline 6 motor with relatively respectable performance and a chassis that isn't easily overpowered by the motor. That makes for a fun car, and a good curvy road machine.

    It drives super well, and as an added bonus even has a new Pioneer Bluetooth Radio that can do hands free calling. Plus the front seats have been freshly recovered. Paid $2300.

    Looking forward to sorting it out the way that I want. I'm not looking to do anything outrageous with it for a while, just maintain it, improve it and drive it. When I wear out the tires I will get some 18" Konigs and low profile tires to keep the same overall diameter.





  2. #2
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    Sweet deal man! Welcome to the forum you sound like a good addition!

    Have you thought about re-clearing the hood?

    Another thing you might want to check, the wiring in the trunk, on some of the earlier E36's the insulation was bad on the wiring. Pull the trim out of the left side of the trunk and what runs in to the left side of the trunk lid.
    Attn. NEWBIES: Use the search feature, 98% has already been discussed.
    Click the search button, select "search single content type", select the "e36 sub forum" specifically, try the "search titles" then try the "search entire posts".

  3. #3
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    Rear trailing arm bushings. I've yet to own one that didn't need them

    Complete cooling system. Water pump hoses and thermostat.

    17" inch is the optimal wheel size unless you are going for wider than 10"

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deus Ex Machina View Post
    I do body work so I will slick all of that out (without using plastic filler), and will paint it in the spring. The hood is faded, but with a couple of stages of wet sanding with 3M Trizact followed by a couple more stages of buffing (Fine Cut Cleaner - Swirl Remover - Teflon Wax) it will work out to be passable as shown in one of the pics.
    Cool to see a black car owned by someone who does body work. They look great when the body is right but they can be so unforgiving with a few dings or just dirt. Looks to be in great shape overall and the recovered seats are awesome. Nice deal.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by guymandude View Post
    Rear trailing arm bushings. I've yet to own one that didn't need them

    Complete cooling system. Water pump hoses and thermostat.

    17" inch is the optimal wheel size unless you are going for wider than 10"
    I will definitely check out the bushings, thanks for the tip. I will have it up on ramps to change the fluids, I will do plenty of inspection while I am under there.

    The radiator and hoses are very obviously brand new. Unfortunately I have no idea about the water pump and thermostat. They are so cheap that I will likely replace them pre-emptively just in case.

    Thanks for the tip on the wheels. Good point because the tires are a part of the suspension. The lower the profile the harder the shocks have to work.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by gdavid View Post
    Cool to see a black car owned by someone who does body work. They look great when the body is right but they can be so unforgiving with a few dings or just dirt. Looks to be in great shape overall and the recovered seats are awesome. Nice deal.
    Yeah black is hard to keep looking good. Learned that with an old Laquered Jaguar I had and my Harley Dyna Low Rider S.

    I hate dings and dents so the body will be slick as new soon enough (it will bother me every time I see it)

    Thanks, I thought it was a decent deal for the low miles and overall good shape it is in.

    I love the way these drive. I wanted an E36 when I was in my early twenties and they were new, but couldn't afford one. I really wanted an M3 at the time, but this will do fine.

    I like the E36's better than the follow up models, and I don't care for the new ones much at all, especially considering the overcomplication and lack of a simple smooth manual trans.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric93se View Post
    Sweet deal man! Welcome to the forum you sound like a good addition!

    Have you thought about re-clearing the hood?

    Another thing you might want to check, the wiring in the trunk, on some of the earlier E36's the insulation was bad on the wiring. Pull the trim out of the left side of the trunk and what runs in to the left side of the trunk lid.
    The paint looks better in the pics than it actually is, so for now I will just wet sand the body with 3000 > 5000 3M sponge, spending extra time on the hood. I will likely sand and paint the grey lowers. When I get the body slicked I will repaint the entire car.

    Thanks for the tip on the trunk wiring, there are no lights or codes showing other than a "Trunk Light Bulb Malfunction", so that may be a possibility, or it could just simply be the bulb. I will look over everything.

  8. #8
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    '94 325iC, '08 328i, E93
    Do I see E46 seats?

    You scored, dude! Search eBay for a set of E36 17" rims. My personal thoughts are to score a set of factory wheels and steer clear of the aftermarket. Don't go crazy, the factory fitment will provide a contact patch that will be difficult to over-drive. Any factory fitment tire package will be a direct fit that won't require a bank roll that chokes a horse.

    BEFORE searching for the wire harness, put in a known good lamp. Swap the left and right side bulbs and see if they change the what works and where.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDStrickland View Post
    Do I see E46 seats?

    You scored, dude! Search eBay for a set of E36 17" rims. My personal thoughts are to score a set of factory wheels and steer clear of the aftermarket. Don't go crazy, the factory fitment will provide a contact patch that will be difficult to over-drive. Any factory fitment tire package will be a direct fit that won't require a bank roll that chokes a horse.

    BEFORE searching for the wire harness, put in a known good lamp. Swap the left and right side bulbs and see if they change the what works and where.
    I don't think they are E46 seats, I have a 2002 E46 in my yard with a blown motor and those are power with more aggressive side bolsters. The manual controls on the seats match the owners manual.

    I hate the motor is toast in the E46, the interior is nice, the manual trans is slick shifting and it has the M3 ***** Bluetooth touch screen radio. Guess she will be sold for parts.

    Thanks for the tip on the wheels, I had been looking at a set of split spoke Konigs but they were 18". The company that sells them guarantee direct fitment and the wheels and tires were only $800 If I remember correctly. I will definitely look into all of the options before doing anything. I'm in no hurry for wheels.

    Priority 1 is mechanical. The alternator cooling vent system is gone so that will go back, water pump and thermostat, check over all the bushings etc.

    I just washed all of the oil and Mobil 1 synthetic ATF off me, had to finish the trans in the dark with my work light. Only have the differential fluid left to change as far as main driveline components.

    This weekend will see the valve cover gasket replaced. I have to pick up an inspection mirror and some MAF safe silver RTV2 for it. Bosch Iridiums may be the plugs I try unless forum search finds a problem with them.

    The water pump and thermostat will follow. They may well be new like the radiator and hoses but I will take no chances.

    I will follow your advise on the bulbs. I just haven't gotten to that part yet.

  10. #10
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    Use the factory NGK plugs. No need for any other plugs in the E36.
    Mike
    1999 750 IL (SOLD)
    1990 750 IL (SOLD)
    1989 325IC (SOLD)
    1995 540I (SOLD)
    1999 323 (SOLD)
    1998 328I 195,000 miles and counting
    2017 Ford Expedition Platinum
    2016 Lexus RX350 F-Sport

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeysentra View Post
    Use the factory NGK plugs. No need for any other plugs in the E36.
    I got NGK V Power copper. I don't like the idea of plugs that are "Pre-Gapped" anyway.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Eric93se View Post
    Sweet deal man! Welcome to the forum you sound like a good addition!

    Have you thought about re-clearing the hood?

    Another thing you might want to check, the wiring in the trunk, on some of the earlier E36's the insulation was bad on the wiring. Pull the trim out of the left side of the trunk and what runs in to the left side of the trunk lid.
    Good call on the trunk wiring. I replaced the tag light bulbs with new LED's, but the check code didn't clear. It could just be a case of the power draw being lower than the computer is looking for, but I have seen the wiring insulation issue mentioned in other threads, so I will open up the trunk and solder and heat shrink some new wire if necessary.

  12. #12
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    personally i wouldnt pay over 2k for a car over 20 years old and paint fading off but it is a 5 speed and has low miles, wonder if its been sitting for a while
    98 328is/5 Arctic silver
    99 528i 5speed Alpine white(Totaled Unfortunately)
    Oil pan and timing chain delete, weight reduction right?
    98 540i/6 (New baby)











  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by zohaibrose View Post
    personally i wouldnt pay over 2k for a car over 20 years old and paint fading off but it is a 5 speed and has low miles, wonder if its been sitting for a while
    An old guy owned it, looks like he occasionally drove it. No leaks except the Valve cover seeping and a little from the Radiator Drain Cock. The radiator is solid aluminum and the thermostat housing is metal, plus other new parts, so it looks like he at least kept on top of the major issues. I'm going to replace the water pump, fan clutch, and thermostat regardless. All of the hoods that have original paint from that era are faded. that's no problem. I could get a newer BMW, but I really don't like newer BMW's. This is the model I wanted, and it was the best example I could find.

    I have the valve cover gasket, coil boots, new plugs, and dielectric grease in the trunk waiting for time to get it changed.

  14. #14
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    '94 325is owner checking in, welcome to the club. Looks like you got a pretty good deal, 5-speeds are getting rare and those door panels look GOOD.

    When you go to do the dif fluid, cut down a 14mm allen wrench as the spare tire well is right up against the dif plugs. I ended up using the little cut-off chunk of allen in a 14mm box wrench.

    I love these cars, perfectly balanced chassis and that little 2.5 liter inline 6 pulls and wails so well. The mid '90s were a golden era for BMW, added luxury and power but they hadn't lost that ultimate driving machine feel yet...

    Best easy upgrade? A tie between a good performance chip in the DME and a Euro M3 3-spoke steering wheel.
    Eat, drink, and be merry - for tomorrow we drive.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by JEC928 View Post
    '94 325is owner checking in, welcome to the club. Looks like you got a pretty good deal, 5-speeds are getting rare and those door panels look GOOD.

    When you go to do the dif fluid, cut down a 14mm allen wrench as the spare tire well is right up against the dif plugs. I ended up using the little cut-off chunk of allen in a 14mm box wrench.

    I love these cars, perfectly balanced chassis and that little 2.5 liter inline 6 pulls and wails so well. The mid '90s were a golden era for BMW, added luxury and power but they hadn't lost that ultimate driving machine feel yet...

    Best easy upgrade? A tie between a good performance chip in the DME and a Euro M3 3-spoke steering wheel.
    I did the diff fluid last night in the dark with a work light. The set of hex sockets I bought didn't allow enough room for a ratchet, you are correct. But there was enough exposed hex shaft after bottoming it out that I could get a 14mm wrench on it, and I used a large adjustable wrench on the other end of the wrench for a breaker bar. Dicey but it worked. Pumped that sucker full of synthetic 75/140. Good to go. I had already done the Engine oil/filter and transmission fluid the night before. It's an old car but it runs very well and shifts sweet. After changing all of the fluids it feels like its rolling on a wave of teflon coated butter.

    I agree on the 90's models. It had a perfect balance of performance, handling, and style with just enough luxury. The new ones are too far over the line for me, and I despise the fact that manual trans is no longer an option pretty much.

    But these are still out there and right now it's a golden age for parts availability and price. Tax, Tag and Title set me back a huge $192. And insurance is a little over $300 a year.

    That passenger door panel looks better than the driver's, and the previous owner did some spotty work securing them. But at the end of the tracks when I get done with Maintenance and Mechanical systems > Body > Paint > Wheels, I will have those panels re-upholstered and secured properly.

    The head liner is even in great shape other than right at the top of the rear window it is loose about 2" in the middle. But it is well in the range of getting some adhesive and securing it.
    Last edited by Deus Ex Machina; 11-19-2017 at 12:12 AM.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by JEC928 View Post
    '94 325is owner checking in, welcome to the club.
    Best easy upgrade? A tie between a good performance chip in the DME and a Euro M3 3-spoke steering wheel.
    Believe me, I've already been looking at those steering wheels. Best price I could find is $300 for a freshly refurbished one, and I have some other things to worry about first. But one day...

    Cool to hear from someone else that owns the same car BTW.

  17. #17
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    Awesome, good to hear.

    The suspension will probably be your next challenge. 97k is just long enough that nobody has replaced the RTABs or front lollipops, but they are worn.

    Required readings: (M3-centric but the basics are the same)
    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...n-Overhaul-FAQ

    http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...or-your-E36-M3

    Also, steering rack. The hot ticket is swapping in a Z3 non-M rack or an E46 ZHP rack.
    Eat, drink, and be merry - for tomorrow we drive.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by JEC928 View Post
    Awesome, good to hear.

    The suspension will probably be your next challenge. 97k is just long enough that nobody has replaced the RTABs or front lollipops, but they are worn.

    Required readings: (M3-centric but the basics are the same)
    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...n-Overhaul-FAQ

    http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...or-your-E36-M3

    Also, steering rack. The hot ticket is swapping in a Z3 non-M rack or an E46 ZHP rack.
    Understood. Thanks for the tips. They took care of most basic maintenance including upgrading the cooling system, but most people don't replace things like bushings and steering components until they break. Only enthusiasts do pre-emptive maintenance.

    Thanks for the info, greatly appreciated. I am pretty sure I will need it.








  19. #19
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    No prob, pay it forward.
    Eat, drink, and be merry - for tomorrow we drive.

  20. #20
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    I have been checking the fluids daily and taking it for short drives, probably 8 miles. I drove it to town a few minutes ago and did a pavement check. Antifreeze was leaking from the passengers side. I knew immediately it was the expansion tank. It didn't fail like I had read in other cases, there were actually pin holes in the side shooting 3 fine streams of coolant.

    It looks like predictably the last owners replaced the radiator with an aluminum one and the thermo housing but overlooked the expansion tank. I am going ahead and ordering a Mishimoto aluminum expansion tank, Stewart high performance water pump, fan clutch, 88 degree switch, hoses, drain cock, and probably a metal pulley if it doesn't have one already. Plus anything else I find it might need for the cooling system.

    Oh well, things happen. It's all fun and games until your motor goes toasty. Not entirely unexpected.

  21. #21
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    Well, that hit my wallet for $550.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deus Ex Machina View Post
    Well, that hit my wallet for $550.
    wow 550 for all those parts? aluminum radiator and that stewart water pump really hit the bank. im afraid of overheating when i track my m52 with an aluminum head but nothing happens. i think those two components for you were overkill instead could have gotten some of the suspenion stuff taken care of like tie rods,bushings etc
    98 328is/5 Arctic silver
    99 528i 5speed Alpine white(Totaled Unfortunately)
    Oil pan and timing chain delete, weight reduction right?
    98 540i/6 (New baby)











  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by zohaibrose View Post
    wow 550 for all those parts? aluminum radiator and that stewart water pump really hit the bank. im afraid of overheating when i track my m52 with an aluminum head but nothing happens. i think those two components for you were overkill instead could have gotten some of the suspenion stuff taken care of like tie rods,bushings etc
    It probably is overkill, it already had an aluminum radiator, but I bought the best replacements for everything else that were available. The essential systems I want to be over engineered, I have lost a motor to overheating before.

    The Mishimoto tig welded expansion tank was $120 and the Stewart's pump was almost $200. I also got a CNC machined thermo housing and fan clutch. Those major parts were the bulk of the cost, then the peripheral parts (drain plugs, belts and hoses etc.) made up the rest.

    I had to order a couple of things from FCP Euro separately, so it came out to nearly $600.
    Last edited by Deus Ex Machina; 11-21-2017 at 09:31 AM.

  24. #24
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    I am sitting waiting for cooling system parts, so I did some Facebook Marketplace searching last night and found this to fix up my damaged grill panel and front bumper. It was from a 1995 M3 that had been hit in the trunk. The guy had bought it for a motor swap and had no interest in the rest of the car.

    I will likely be getting the steering wheel, Mirrors, M-Technic side skirts and a few other things from the car soon.


    Last edited by Deus Ex Machina; 11-21-2017 at 08:56 PM.

  25. #25
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    You sir are an ENTHUSIAST
    Attn. NEWBIES: Use the search feature, 98% has already been discussed.
    Click the search button, select "search single content type", select the "e36 sub forum" specifically, try the "search titles" then try the "search entire posts".

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