Sitting here taking a break from working on my car that I have never run or driven! I am in the process of re-assembling those systems that I wanted to repair originally, but I am really slow and this 'mission creep' has set me back at times.
So far I have replaced fuel pump assembly carrier and fuel level carrier, filters, and all fuel lines at the back of car.
I repaired driver's door handle assembly, thanks to Hyper's help. I also replaced door speakers. I also re-installed door module and GM after repairs Scott completed for me.
I adjusted cam timing per Steffen's guidance then I drilled and wired banjo bolts and refitted powdercoated valve covers. I just need to finish work on manifolds and re-install.
I just replaced crank position sensors today and drained oil while under the car, and bled front brakes for an initial brake fluid change.
Will start on reassembling new belts, pulleys, and tensioners next and also install new fuel lines while front of car is on stands.
I would like to have engine running before much longer before I tackle any other issues.
I still have headliner to re-cover and install. I found a great deal on microfiber made by same company that makes Alcantara. An upholstery shop has offered to help me recover the various parts.
FCPEuro and Sterling BMW have been a great help with parts that I have needed along the way.
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If you want to stay with the original color of your headliner (gray), and you have a JoAnn's Fabric store nearby, you can find ultrasuede in their store. I used it one my headliner recover project and it worked great (plus it was inexpensive - $75 in materials). Auto upholsterer charged $150 to do headliner, pillar covers, sunroof sliding panel, sunroof panel, package shelf and sunroof switch cover. The package shelf was done in black. You will want to remove all the pieces and take them to your upholsterer - helps keep the cost and damage down. I also remove ALL the foam backing and had him apply the ultrasued directly to the pieces. The only part that used the original foam was the underside of the metal sunroof panel.
'93 850Ci - Mineralweiß Metallic
2001 740iL - Titansilber
ALPINA B7 -Alpinweiß III
...the price of cool ain't cheap!
OP:
Good time for a upgraded alternator wiring as well.
I wasn't sure what the original color was except the back shelf was dark beige or light brown similar to the headliner but it was a different fabric. I picked out a light beige microsuede that should look very good with beige colored leather.
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Which alternator wire are you referring to?
I thought about replacing the main alternator wire but the realoem part 12511732762 that includes the metal tube and bracket is no longer available through fcp. My car does not have the metal tube/alternator wire on it now. Wire was just running back from alternator to mounting point near firewall. What wiring are you referring to and do you have a source or part number? Thanks,
While on the subject of alternator wiring, does anyone have the metal tube/bracket/wire assembly or can I get by without it? I just ran the part number on scorebmwparts and it looks like its available through dealer for $252.00.
Last edited by JDP530; 11-15-2017 at 08:15 PM.
They have a matching beige also. For some reason I thought you had the gray interior.
'93 850Ci - Mineralweiß Metallic
2001 740iL - Titansilber
ALPINA B7 -Alpinweiß III
...the price of cool ain't cheap!
It's made by 8Tech, You can get it in the US from Max below
http://maxlumens@finemotoring.com
If you can spend $12 at an auto electric store for welding cable and two lugs.
'93 850Ci - Mineralweiß Metallic
2001 740iL - Titansilber
ALPINA B7 -Alpinweiß III
...the price of cool ain't cheap!
I have the tube - contact me offline at: wuffer at shaw dot caWhile on the subject of alternator wiring, does anyone have the metal tube/bracket/wire assembly or can I get by without it? I just ran the part number on scorebmwparts and it looks like its available through dealer for $252.00.
91 850 (Panzer), 2012 Mini Cooper Countryman (WifeMobile) www.wuffer.ca
I sent an email to you awhile ago when i saw that you are stocking the cables. Thanks,
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Looks like I need a new alternator B+ base or junction box unless I can glue the broken tabs back onto box. FCP didn't have it but it looks like its available through Sterling.
IMG_20171115_195701398.jpg
No alternator cable tube on my car. Someone must have thrown it out when cable was replaced.
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That cable is a huge pain in the butt. Pieces of that disintegrating plastic covering went everywhere, including into my valve openings (fortunately was taking the heads off anyway). Took me 4 hours to slide one of those braided fiberglas coverings through that metal tube... How is it routed without the tube such that it doesn't get caught in the belt?
The cable on my car was routed from back of alternator directly to the B+ lug without any supports. So cable must have been replaced at some point by a PO. You could probably mount the a cable to valve cover studs using simple rubber-lined clamps. I wanted to replace mine with the original metal tube and Mr Wuffer had a spare in stock.
You could put some extra heat shrink tubing on a cable for extra protection before slipping cable through metal tube. Might be easier to do instead of using the braided material, but I dont know for sure, never have done it before.
can't slip the factory cable through the tube. it's a three price "Y" cable and the end is too large to go through the pipe. have to slide the sleeve over the end and through the tube without removing the cable
I finally got the manifolds installed so it won't be long before I can start up my project car.
IMG_20171215_180455558.jpg
Lookin' Great!!
CSi #18 - Car & Driver Magazine 1994 actual test car
-- Hellrot/Black-Gray (1 of 1 NA CSi color combination)
BMWCCA E31 Chapter International Clubs Liaison
North America Representative, 8er.or Board of Directors
Looking good, keep posting the progress!
Hurt
Current project working on the E31 rebuild.
1992 BMW 850i, 1995 E31 840ci, 2008 E90 M3, 2008 750Li
Thanks for the nice compliments! Getting excited to run this engine. I was going to install fan and shroud a few days ago and would be ready to start the engine once antifreeze has been added, but I realized hoses under top of shroud weren't in very good shape so I am waiting on those parts now. I also need to search for paperwork and see if I can find the radio code so I can start the car without alarm going on.
IMG_20171222_190644383.jpg
I am just about ready to start up car for the first time. I just need to finish bleeding cooling system.
But, I don't have quick access to the security code. Can BMWNA provide code? I think I read a thread on here a while back that mentioned that code was on radio.
If this is correct, is it easy to pull radio?
Thanks,
Start the car and bleed the system, You'll get all the air out this way. Raise the front of the car up just a little so the air runs to the exit.
If the alarm goes off, simply disconnect the horns for the time being until you either figure out the source, or end up pulling the alarm fuse.
CSi #18 - Car & Driver Magazine 1994 actual test car
-- Hellrot/Black-Gray (1 of 1 NA CSi color combination)
BMWCCA E31 Chapter International Clubs Liaison
North America Representative, 8er.or Board of Directors
So engine spins over very well, but its not firing. Alarm is sounding so I am assuming that security system requires a code to be inputted into stereo. I found a sheet of paper that came with car that appears to be from DCSnet/Service/Radio Code Results showing serial #PLF0101169 with Pioneer code 32563 that I tried with key in first position but that didn't stop alarm. I have not pulled radio because I need to figure out how, lol, and see if I can confirm serial number. Can I disarm security system by simply removing a fuse? Thanks,
BTW, the display is illegible. Guess I need to figure out how to remove display and send it out to have light strip replaced.
Last edited by JDP530; 01-07-2018 at 05:33 PM.
You are confusing the radio code (which allows the radio to work) and the alarm/immobiliser (which is sounding the alarm and possibly inhibiting the engine). To deactivate the alarm and inhibit the immobiliser:
Open the door with the key (alarm may sound)
Get in the car, shut both doors, put key in ignition and turn to position I (accessories) (alarm may sound)
Wait without fiddling with anything until the alarm LED goes out which may take up to 15 minutes
The system is now deactivated and the car should start
The above is from the Owners Manual
http://www.meeknet.co.uk/e31/pdf/BMW...93.pdf#page=16
Last edited by Timm; 01-07-2018 at 05:44 PM.
Timm..2007 E64 650i Individual Sport..1999 E31 840ci Individual Sport..ex owner of 2000 E38 740..1999 E38 740i V8 M62..1998 E38 735i V8..1993 E32 730i V8..1988 E28 518i
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