1989 Minor Issues with my first Bimmer need Guidance

[KinkTheMook]

Hello, (BASICALLY A TLR Door lock issue trying to narrow my options down)

Nice to meet all of you names Chris. First off I Live in California and I will explain why that is relevant in the second paragraph below issue list. So currently I have been searching through threads and looking around at post and what not trying to find out how to fix my current issue. Many of them seemed to help or where a bit old or "hosted site" removed the photos ect. This is the reason I am making an account to do this post. Currently this is my first owned BMW a 1989 325i I use it as my daily and the previous owner I bought it from had some minor issues to it that I have mostly sorted. Coming from a Corolla and a Camry background I didn't know many e30s have locking "difficulties" so I've been searching far and wide and I had some questions and I will list them below to clean up the post a bit.

1. How the hell do i fix it (will go into details in a bit below) can I just install an keyless to bypass issue?

2. From what I read usually the trunk lock is the only functional CLU unlocker

3. Could jumping another car cause this (seize) my actuators *obviously yes, but covering grounds*

4. Not lock related but whenever i fill up gasoline 90% of the time i can't "lazy lock" pump or even sometimes pump consistently, I kinda have to fiddle around with angles and what not to get the gas to flow.

5. Also not related but less important at the time being and if you want to no comment this last one I'll probably askjeeves google or bing them more in depth at a later time. Gas needle erratic replaced both unit and bolt and reflowed board but gas light works, rear passenger door window goes up but not down; only went down once, a kind of odd low clunk noise going over speed bumps at slow speeds sounds like my rear suspension might be giving out. General need to replace my steering rack.

Alright so those are mainly the issues I'm running into. Mainly I want to figure out this CLU or locking situation and I have 4 options I believe; being Lock rebuild, CLU resolder/replacement, Actuator replacement, rewire door lock to lock heater wire since I probably wont use it ever, buy a keyless and cross fingers it will bypass CLU double lock ect. This is the main issue I have is whether it would be worth it to say screw it off to the shop or one by one go through and buy each thing and replacing one after another? As far as I know my doors were working ie driver door would unlock all the doors and the trunk would also activate all doors. Now none of my doors unlock or lock but my drivers door is permanently unlocked for now so I can drive the car at least. The issue started when I jumped a friends car cause i was being nice. I did it properly so I'm a bit puzzled, my battery is fine and everything like my windows and side windows works, its just the doors :c

Thank you guys for taking the time to skim or read through. Hopefully I can get this all figured out.

[sienayr]

Lock cylinders will have to be rebuilt. CLU is a separate problem which will take some electrical troubleshooting. First thing to check is related fuses and go from there.

There are some electrical guides here.

http://wedophones.com/BMWManualsLead.htm

[superj]

and the rear clunk is the rear shock mounts. they are like 12 bucks each online and you can swap them in the parking lot.

[KinkTheMook]

Thanks for replying guys these past few days I've been removing door cars and what not cause I have some garage time and found out that my door had split wires from what seemed to be the previous owners Alarm setup and the lock unlock where barley touching. I soldered in some wiring to bridge the connection and now it locks and unlocks but I will need a Lock Cylinder Rebuild I would assume since the lock sometimes locks and unlocks with barely any movement from the drivers side only. I will check those rear shock mounts when I get the chance. Looked up some how to's and it didn't look too difficult. Once again I will keep you posted on anything else thanks!

Edit: Seems like my actuator is about to give out it would do a normal *clunk* when you unlock it and it activates the CLU but on the drivers side only it goes *clunk click* in either direction to lock or unlock. I removed each actuator and tested them all the drivers actuator seems to only do it so I can assume its bad correct?

[KinkTheMook]

Ok so i got all the doors working but now my trunk doesn't actuate, I checked the actuator and it seemed fine but it doesn't lock all the doors like normal. So now My problem is reversed.