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Thread: What is going on?

  1. #51
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    Test both crank position sensors, they should read a resistance of .540 ohm between pins 1 and 2.
    Test for spark with spark plug out.
    Alex is fairly close to you, I built him a laptop he may let you borrow.

  2. #52
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    Okay, let me back track some. After doing the fuel test and it the problem didn't switch side. I also checked and snugged all of the spark plugs. Problem didn't change and I also realized I left spark plug cable #8 out but it didn't make a difference.

    So after just about calling it a day, I button everything back up. Started the motor and it ran on complete limp home mode this time.

    No firing on the driver side injectors. So I decided to try 8eights fuel line switch test one more time just for laughs.

    Finally, I'm seeing a different result.
    The motor cranks but does not catch? So is one of the fuel lines starving of fuel or the fuel lines cannot be switched and still expect the motor to still run?

    Im a bit confused now.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
    Last edited by ChrisFuture8; 11-14-2017 at 11:44 PM.

  3. #53
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    Switched the fuel line back to the way it should be and the motor starts...of course in full LHM.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

  4. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by cartoonz View Post
    Are we sure both the cap and rotor on that side are not fooked somehow?
    As sure as I can verify, Cartoonz.

  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisFuture8 View Post
    Switched the fuel line back to the way it should be and the motor starts...of course in full LHM.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
    OK, you may have 2 problems, dead pump and something else. Do this, put both fuel lines in 2 coke bottles, then apply voltage(6v 1 amp does it for me but you can go v12) to fuses 23 and then 24. I bet one bottle will start filling with fuel the other one will stay dry.
    FYI, I have a refurbished fuel pump assembly if you will end up needing one.

  6. #56
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    OK, I'll give that a try, Ed. Probably tomorrow and I have to get me a bottle of coke from 7-Eleven. We don't drink soda at home. Maybe my just empty bottle of POM might work. @:-)

  7. #57
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    Fuel pump relays/fuses?
    Taylor in Cardiff

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  8. #58
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    Quick question. I don't have spare MAFs and I'm thinking I should have at least one MAF in the car for backup when on longer drives or road trips. While having a spare MAF is great for testing purpose and quick swap out when in a bind, a new pair of MAFs (if affordable) is probably best for the reason of the two operating the same.
    With that said, has anyone any experiences or heard positive feedback about the Walker's MAFs for our cars or any other make/model in general?

    Here's their statement that I got from their site (under $150 per unit):

    Walker Products began supplying the fuel system needs of the automotive industry in 1946. Today Walker is one of the largest, privately owned manufacturers of fuel system components and engine sensors, and has served the needs of the worldwide automotive aftermarket. We are committed to supplying products manufactured to meet or exceed OEM standards and specifications. This effort is backed by our own manufacturing, product management and engineering staff to ensure it is maintained and accurate in the production of quality parts, vehicle applications, instruction sheets and technical support. Our products include Carburetor and Fuel Injection Repair Kits, Oxygen Sensors and other Engine Management products such as Throttle Position Sensors, Cam and Crankshaft Sensors, Fuel Injectors, Spark Plug Wires and Gaskets. As an ISO 9001:2008/TS16949 certified company, we are committed to supplying the highest quality products.

  9. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisFuture8 View Post
    Quick question. I don't have spare MAFs and I'm thinking I should have at least one MAF in the car for backup when on longer drives or road trips. While having a spare MAF is great for testing purpose and quick swap out when in a bind, a new pair of MAFs (if affordable) is probably best for the reason of the two operating the same.
    With that said, has anyone any experiences or heard positive feedback about the Walker's MAFs for our cars or any other make/model in general?

    Here's their statement that I got from their site (under $150 per unit).
    Walker is a reputable company for emissions equipment parts - I have used their products in several of my vehicles without issue. I believe they even offer a warranty on their products.
    '93 850Ci - Mineralweiss Metallic
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  10. #60
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    Awesome! Thanks for the very helpful feedback about the manufacturer's products.

  11. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisFuture8 View Post
    Quick question. I don't have spare MAFs and I'm thinking I should have at least one MAF in the car for backup when on longer drives or road trips. While having a spare MAF is great for testing purpose and quick swap out when in a bind, a new pair of MAFs (if affordable) is probably best for the reason of the two operating the same.
    With that said, has anyone any experiences or heard positive feedback about the Walker's MAFs for our cars or any other make/model in general?

    Here's their statement that I got from their site (under $150 per unit):

    Walker Products began supplying the fuel system needs of the automotive industry in 1946. Today Walker is one of the largest, privately owned manufacturers of fuel system components and engine sensors, and has served the needs of the worldwide automotive aftermarket. We are committed to supplying products manufactured to meet or exceed OEM standards and specifications. This effort is backed by our own manufacturing, product management and engineering staff to ensure it is maintained and accurate in the production of quality parts, vehicle applications, instruction sheets and technical support. Our products include Carburetor and Fuel Injection Repair Kits, Oxygen Sensors and other Engine Management products such as Throttle Position Sensors, Cam and Crankshaft Sensors, Fuel Injectors, Spark Plug Wires and Gaskets. As an ISO 9001:2008/TS16949 certified company, we are committed to supplying the highest quality products.
    Do not buy Walker mafs. Walker is using Chinese single wire sensor in their mafs similar to what you find on ebay. Best bet is to buy a good used one with a 4 wire sensor.

  12. #62
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    I did see some Bosch on eBay for $250.


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  13. #63
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    OK. Sorry, finally got around to installing a brand new OEM BMW fuel pump.

    Well, I had to crank it several times before it fired up. However, it still misfires and seems the driver's side bank is dead...so in LHM.

    Now, I have to crank and step on the gas pedal all the way before the motor catches.
    The entire behavior seems to point to fuel starvation still. Brand new FPR that has been running great for the last 12 months or so.

    Question: Does the pump always come on after the ignition is turned to the off position and then back to ACC?
    Why is it behaving like it's not getting fuel. I pinched the two fuel lines by the firewall and they are both full...very difficult to press in with fingers.

    If I stay on the gas, then it will rev and I can keep the motor while in park. If the car is in motion, then it continues to run and does not backfire or miss...
    If the car is parked and motor running. If I rev the motor, sometimes it might back fires. It's more noticeable when the car is parked inclined on the drive way.

    I sometime hear the new pump spins, other times, it's quiet. Is that any indication that it may be an intermittently bad new pump?
    My fuel filter is about 6 years old but only has several thousand miles on it at most. Perhaps it could be clogged? I highly doubt that though.

    All was well until the fuel starvation happened out of nowhere.
    I have 2 years old Magnaflow cats...how do I check for clogged cats?

    Very confused.

  14. #64
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    So I think I got my fuel pump or fuel delivery issue resolved for now.
    There appears to be pressure lock (for lack of better description/words) in the fuel system.

    I decided t open the fuel door and take out the gas cap and insert a screw driver in the spring operated flap to keep it open.
    I started the engine and let it run for about 5 minutes. The engine started up within several turns of the starter and did not stumble with the flap to the gas filler neck still in the open position.

    I shut off the engine, pulled the screw driver out, put the gas cap back on and closed the gas door. Started up the engine and it caught right away.

    So whatever air lock was in the system has been released now.

    Now, on with one the misfire on the driver's side continuing and why it's running still "ALMOST" on half bank. Reason why I say almost is because I can still hear the driver's side injectors ticking...but at a very reduced rate. In full operational mode, the firing injectors will sound like: tick, tick, tick, tick, in very rapid succession (depending on throttle input). On the driver's side, I still hear it but it's tick---tick---tick. Once, revved, the injectors are shut off all together.

    My ignition wires set replaced brand new with less than several thousand miles on them. Still trying to figure out if the CID sensor is at fault, or even the CPS. Changing the MAFs around doesn't have any affect so not the MAFs. Ignition coils...same thing (and they are new too).

    As mentioned before, this problem came out of the blue. Most of the components in the car are fairly new (as in only several thousand miles...car is a stupid garage queen cause it's hardly ever driven so low miles on an extensive list of replaced parts).

    Anyone any thoughts or ideas?
    Last edited by ChrisFuture8; 02-09-2018 at 06:06 PM.

  15. #65
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    Done some more troubleshooting and now, I have the CEL on. Swapping DME didn't make a change as the driver's side still partially running. It misfires and pops.
    I hooked up an inline spark tester and do see spark but it's very slow and not steady; as in the same pattern of the injectors firing.

    I'm thinking maybe something might have happened to the O2 sensor for the driver's side. It's a new pair of O2 sensors but maybe the wires got burned or shorted somehow. I will have to jack up the car and get under it to see.

    What else could cause CEL to come on, and leaving the driver's side bank to partially run and misfire? It's definitely running rich on the driver's side.

  16. #66
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    What does a stomp test reveal? Have you tried.

  17. #67
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    I tried but couldn't get any codes to show up. My car is a Canadian imported car so not sure if the stomp test option is available.

    I disconnected the CID sensor on spark plug cable #12 and yet, I still hear the injectors for the driver's bank firing. I thought it shouldn't be when CID is disconnected or not picking up cam signal.
    However, maybe it's worth it to note that I tried that test when the motor hasn't started up yet since last night. Will let it warm up and try that test again.

  18. #68
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    If it is imported from Europe there is no lightbulb (Check Engine Light) installed in the instrument cluster. You have to install one. You are sure that there is fuel pressure for the driver side half of the motor. My engine showed a strange failure after a longer trip very much like yours. Suddenly one side of the engine turned off with our any obvious reason. After much work it showed to be the feeding cable to the ignition coil on one side that was loose. The both nuts were tight but the crimped cable shoes were not squeezed under the nuts. There were washers missing! This small but important error showed up with the engine going into and out of failure mode.

  19. #69
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    Hey Peake. Yes, I made sure the wires are securely connected on every parts: maf, dk, plugs, ignition coil, etc.
    I switched fuel line input at the rear of the motor (next to the firewall and driver's side) and it had zero affect...no changes.

    Driver's side still get partial spark and fuel injection.

  20. #70
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    Thanks, CD. Yes, I think I have the protocol down but I'm still scratching my head.
    I checked the cap and rotor and found a little haze over the center of the rotor contact point. Cleaned that up with slight sand paper and careful not to remove any metal material. Still, no change.
    I swapped out plug wire #12 with a known good one and the behavior is still the same...partial spark and fuel injection on the driver's side.

    One thing I did notice about the partial firing is that it slows down and every couple seconds or so, it would fire in rapid succession (like in normal running condition) just for about 1/2 a second then goes back to that lazy tick - tick - tick.

    I think there's something up with the O2 sensor now cause I have CEL on. At least, it's telling me something. I have reached out to one of the brothers here in northern California as he has the diagnostic software. Hope that will point me to the culprit.

  21. #71
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    The Lambda isn't the problem - they are not used until the engine has been running for 3 minutes or so - and you have problems immediately. When the Lambda does start working it is sure to report a problem in air/fuel mixture because the engine is misfiring.

    The intermittent firing of the injectors could indicate a faulty CRANKshaft sensor on that bank....
    Timm..2007 E64 650i Individual Sport..1999 E31 840ci Individual Sport..ex owner of 2000 E38 740..1999 E38 740i V8 M62..1998 E38 735i V8..1993 E32 730i V8..1988 E28 518i


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  22. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timm View Post
    The Lambda isn't the problem - they are not used until the engine has been running for 3 minutes or so - and you have problems immediately. When the Lambda does start working it is sure to report a problem in air/fuel mixture because the engine is misfiring.

    The intermittent firing of the injectors could indicate a faulty CRANKshaft sensor on that bank....
    Hi Timm,

    You may very well be correct. Coincidentally, we were also having problems with our X5 (M62) and I ended up replacing both camshaft sensors and fuel pump (car catch and dies after cranking, or does not catch at all) and it's now back on the road running smooth.

    I just hate to think it's the crankshaft position sensor because it's a lot of work getting it out, but if that's where the fault is, it's time to bite the bullet and man up for the job.
    Sometime, I wish the car wasn't lowered, cant drive up the ramp so easily for these types of maintenance/repair jobs.

    Thanks, Timm.

  23. #73
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    Here's how I get mine up on ramps - use the slope of the pavement:

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  24. #74
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    That's a great idea, Timm and thanks for sharing. I took the cooling fan off and shine light down the CPS area to check. Looks like there's some oil grime between the sensors and the flywheel.
    So I decided to spray some brake cleaner to the areas to clean up the slime/gunk oil build up. Now it just cranks but won't catch...LOL. Geez, I may have killed both CPS now instead of helping it.
    I just wanted to clean it where I could to see if it would make a difference before deciding it's the culprit...not so good results. Will have to give it several hours and try to start the motor again.

    Also, there was a thread by MJR several years ago I think and he asked about the brand FACET for the CPS sensors sold on autohausaz. I currently have those exact CPS in the car as I installed them back in 2009. About 10 - 13,000 miles on them at most. Not sure why one would fail with such little mileage on it (if indeed it is failing). With after the cleaning attempt, they seem to be sensitive to harsh chemical. So, perhaps engining cleaning with engine degreaser may not be a good thing for these sensors.

    With the cooling fan off, I can see think it's very doable to replace these sensors without much fanfare (this compared to me first really learning to wrench on the e31 in 2009).
    Was very reluctant to do it again after the first time around.

    So, should I get the FACET brand from autohausaz (http://www.autohausaz.com/pn/12141720307) or should I go with OEM and spend the extra bucks (like 3x more)?

    BTW, no affilication whatsoever, but I saw this several weeks back and I thought it's a really nice (a little cumbersome but looks very safe and secure) lift stand from this company. Price is not cheap but you pay for the quality. I have not purchase from them but am thinking about them.

    http://myliftstand.com/video/

  25. #75
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    On the V8 we only use primary sensors from BMW as pattern parts often do not work.....
    Timm..2007 E64 650i Individual Sport..1999 E31 840ci Individual Sport..ex owner of 2000 E38 740..1999 E38 740i V8 M62..1998 E38 735i V8..1993 E32 730i V8..1988 E28 518i


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