2004 X3 here. Mechanic saying he can’t remove the driveshaft to change the wheel bearings. The part is super expensive do you guys have any alternative part sources ? Cheapest I found was $500 and he’s saying he needs to force break 2 rear driveshafts
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2013 BMW 320i xDrive (F30)
~145,000kms
Two rear driveshafts? The rear you can just loosen the collar and that will help compress the driveshaf.
I think you are talking about the halfshafts, but if it is a driveshaft, check these guys out: http://www.driveshafts.com/products/...-Mercedes-Benz
Last edited by dworthy; 11-13-2017 at 12:13 PM.
Darin
Current:
16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
Past:
95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
M-Flight Member
I think the tech is using the wrong terms. You have to remove the halfshaft to get to the bearing on the rear end, and of course there is one on each side. So 500 bucks would be about how much BMW would ask for a rebuilt halfshaft. I am wondering what seized, as there are 2 CV joints on the halfshaft, and I for one have never seen them seize up that I couldn't get them off.
Darin
Current:
16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
Past:
95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
M-Flight Member
You are probably referring to half shafts and/or drive axles. Those normally attach between the differential and the wheel bearing assembly.
The driveshaft (which sometimes has 2 halves) attaches from transmission to the differential.
Clarify.
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Yep. Halfshaft, aka "axle". 2 of them. and if the mechanic says he has to break them to remove them, I'm thinking you might want to find a different mechanic.
Yes, I do recall them as being very tight, to remove, on an X3, but you let everything hang fully -- undo the sway bar, maybe even the shock. I seem to recall using a prybar to gain a bit of room between halfshaft and diff, then pushing the halfshaft UPWARDS, and rotating it out.
There's really a whole bunch of stuff that you can unbolt and release, to gain some room there, without breaking the axles.
EDIT: He will need to free up the inner halfshaft flange, and move it away from the diff BEFORE unbolting the main axle nut, and pushing the axle free of the wheelbearing/hub.
Last edited by bmwdirtracer; 11-13-2017 at 07:42 PM.
Chris Powell
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I think to be fair, I think that nut on the axle is like 200+ foot pounds?
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240/250ish ft pounds on that nut normally.
But yeah if the guy doesn't know the difference between a half-shaft and a driveshaft, I too would be worried.
Darin
Current:
16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
Past:
95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
M-Flight Member
Thanks for the help guys. I’m gonna take it to another shop. All three lights on the dash are on simultaneously (4x4, brake light, and ABS). Previous mechanic told me its cause of the bearings being so bad that it impacts the sensors since their in close proximity.
By the way I took the car to another mechanic and he said get ujoint is completely busted in the car. Whereas the first mechanic said the reason why there is play in the ujoint is because the bearings are so bad and it wiggles. Not sure what this all means but I really don’t wanna have to change a million things here. I hear a loud roaring noise from the back even crossing at around 20-30 kmh which indicates to me the bearings need replacement, but with these 3 idiot lights on at the dash and second mechanic telling me ujoint is busted I’m confused.
Sometimes I wish the folks on this forum had a shop here lol
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Last edited by x3L2004; 11-22-2017 at 12:01 AM.
2013 BMW 320i xDrive (F30)
~145,000kms
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