Specialty tools for E38 front suspension

[Imissmyvet]

Hey Guys. Starting a new project and am also doing timing guides and associated maint on a 2001 E38. Looking for anyone who can give steps to dropping motor out from bottom and any specialty tools I may need. I will be doing it on a mid rise lift with a lift table underneath! Thanks in advance for the help and insight!

[bmwdirtracer]

Hmmmm, okay, why not? I've taken E38 engines out the top, and out the front, but never out the bottom. I have done several other BMW's out the bottom, though.

First hint, in case you didn't know: The hood will go straight up, into service position -- just release the hood struts, stand it up, and put a 13mm head bolt (8mmshaft) into each hinge - they're threaded for this.

Take the wiring harness with the engine. Just undo it at the computers, B+ terminal, etc.

Leave the compressor in the body. Hang the calipers by wires, and don't undo the hydraulics. Undo the driveshaft at the guibo, and unbolt the center support, then tie the driveshaft to the side without removing it at the rear..

[Imissmyvet]

Hey Chris,

As always you give me the answers I need in a way thats easy to understand, for us simpletons!!

Anyway, I broke off a exhaust manifold bolt where it meets the rear catalytic converters. Can I just remove the old bolt and replace it, or is welded and need to be drilled?

[bmwdirtracer]

The exhaust manifold exit "bolts" are splined, pressed in studs. On ~15 year old cars, yeah, they're rusted and weak, and they just break right off. The fix is a torch; preferably oxy-acetylene, to heat the flange cherry red; and then you quickly use an air hammer with a pointed bit to shoot them out. You'll note that the forward end of the stud has a "flange:, so shoot them out from the rear.

Yes, I understand that most DIYers don't have oxy acetylene, or an air hammer -- but this is the way to make each broken stud a three minute job. The best you can do is imitate this as best as possible: a hand-held MAPP torch should get hot enough, I'm not sure. Propane just doesn't get hot enough for automotive use. Make sure to use a pointed punch, not a flat one, which can mushroom the stud.

There's nothing uglier than having to drill through an exhaust stud, which has been heat-treated, every day of its life.

EDIT: Word of warning: After you get the flange red hot, and punch the stud out, resist the urge to pick up the stud.