Just thinking out loud here...heating metal causes it to expand. Heating the stud will cause it to expand in the threads, which technically would make it harder to remove. Wish I could be of more help...
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Hi Racer,
I believe the intense heat and expansion should help break the bond and dissolve the electrolysis and once it cools slightly...the bolt should be much easier to loosen.
At least in theory...this is the way it should work. I certainly hope I am right...buying the bolt buster is not cheap.
I've never played with such a tool. I hope it works well!
Maybe if it fails to deliver you can return it to Amazon? If it solves your problem, money well spent.
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I have an old bolt buster that has saved me numerous times with frame bolts, exhaust bolts, manifold bolts especially, and others. The bolt buster 2 has an even better coil and more wattage from what I have been told. I also bought a mini ductor for tighter spaces. Safer obviously than a torch and more pinpoint. After about 10 seconds that bolt/nut are nice and toasty. And I use a thermal blanket to protect adjacent areas when needed.
Hi Lewvirg,
Ive never used the bolt buster but the reviews seem very positive. I just hope this tool will allow me to heat the remaining 1 inch of broken bolt enough to transfer the heat into the section of threads that are in the aluminum cylinder head.
Based on the videos...this tool should be able to do that within a few seconds. The remaining bolt stud I am heating is only 6mm so its not as large as the bolts on the videos. I plan to heat the stud just enough to make it a dull red color and then allow it to cool down before spraying it down with a can of CRC freeze off. I figured the heat from the tool will allow the steel threads to expand within the aluminum cylinder head and burn of the corrosion and once the stud cools down....I can spray the cooling agent to help the threads shrink away from the aluminum head before using a vise grip to loosen it. I sure hope my logic is correct...running out of ideas
Thanks again for the good advice.
I am not sure that I would use a quick cool down with aluminum involved, but that's my own paranoia about aluminum heads. When I wanted to crack a bolt/stud - that's the procedure on iron/steel - use the air duster cans upside dow and spray the bolt/stud. My first is to let it go from red to cooler then spray Kroil wait a few seconds gently turn the bolt, if no give, try spraying again. Then tap with a light hammer while turning. Usually a combination of these methods, plus alot of swearing, and patience will get it removed. Make sure that you use eye protection - not saying you don't, but i've seen a lot of guys doing these kinds of things without and all it takes is a small splinter if a hammer is involved.
if that doesn't do it, see if there is a local mobile welder service - they can come out and tig something up to get it out. just as an aside, if your going to be doing work on cars for a long time, get a good mig welder off of ebay (easy to learn) no more stubborn bolts then. Then you'll find yourself wanting to get a TIG LOL. Beats the old days of O/A and stick - though they still have their places.
hope this helps.
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