Member
Hi guys! I'm a proud owner of e38 and e53 with M62 engines. Though I'd ask here too. We took out the engine from my x5 to change the gaskets, timing chains, and a broken valve. After reassembly it fired up right away, yet died after about a minute. We tried again, the starter works constantly, the engine doesn't want to fire. We checked the sparks, the camshafts are turning - all good. Any help is highly appreciated.
Full story is here - https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...2#post29878442
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Artifically Aspirated
Moderator
What did you get for a fuel pressure reading at the rail?
(nice job on the Sportster)
Lights on, nobody home
I hate to bring this back up, but it sounds very similar the "Bore Wash" incident in the recent past.
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...in-replacement
How's your compression??
Member
No codes because the engine doesn't run. However, today we checked the compression: cylinders 1-7 show 130-140. Only 8 shows 100, yet it is still fine for the freshly reassembled engine. We will check the fuel pressure tomorrow. If the fuel won't be the cause, we will bring heavy artillery - oscilloscope to get to the bottom of the problem.
The only thing that really bugs me - when you turn the key in the ignition and let it go as soon as you hear the engine cranking, but the starter still engaged. Why? Because the engine doesn't fire? Is there a sensor to let starter know the engine is running now and it can disengage? Or maybe it's just a burned out relay that doesn't switch it off? Have no idea...
Member
It's called comfort start, and yes as soon as it detects a start it disengages the starter.Originally Posted by Rokolya87
You most certainly can read codes without a running engine.
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Member
What he meant is with a non running engine you won't generate any codes for runtime conditions E.G. crankshaft sensor failure. Just repaired a ford with mismanaged parts that didn't belong in this exact vehicle. Car would run for 2 seconds and shut off. It was going into protection mode and cutting fuel + spark. The cams were for a different emission level vehicle. Engine would technically "run" but would generate no codes ever.
Buy my native installed ISIS ISTA-D/ISTA-P bmw diagnostic laptop. More Info Here!
Artifically Aspirated
Moderator
Squirt a little oil in each cylinder, leave the plugs out and crank it for 10-15 revolutions.
Then keep the throttle body plate open (better to unbolt it) and read the compression again.
Should be closer to 200 PSI.
Fuel pressure should read at least 50 PSI.
Member
Yes! thank you)) some people already assumed I'm stupid. Haha
The ignition is on and there are no codes. Maybe if the engine would run for a bit they may show up.
Member
If it started right away for the first time and died then there is few things to check
compression
fuel pressure
spark
then Check if your timing is good, maybe you guys mount vanos gears wrong?
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Your current situation is not your final destination
Member
Replaced the fuel pump and left fuel sensor. The old one was conflicting with the new sensor because the metal tracks that change the resistance were worn down and showed us half a tank, yet it was empty. As soon as the new pump was installed the engine fired up no problem. Drove around the block. All good. Now leaks. Next day took it for 300 miles test drive. All good, except the battery, wasn't holding a charge and after 200 miles the transmission went into "safe mode", didn't let to upshift further than 3rd gear. After 40 miles on the 3rd gear with 3500 RPM at 55 mph, I stopped, turned off the engine, started it again and "safe mode" was gone. The alternator charged the battery and the car turned the safe mode off automatically.
The car was sitting for 2 months with a dead battery. And it wasn't brand new in the first place, so just in case we replaced the battery. Other than that everything works like brand new. Big thanks to everybody who shared ideas and special thanks to FCP Euro for a great price on the parts! Came on time and were cheaper than from local wholesale supplier!
- - - Updated - - -
Speaking of the devil. I am lucky enough to have an option of purchasing parts from local shop supplier with 2-hour delivery and dirt cheap. So I got a new VARTA battery that was made in Germany for just 92 bucks. When pulled out the old AAA battery I was kinda shocked...first of all the battery was smaller than my new Varta, yet it stated 154 AH on the AAA label. My new one is 95 AH like BMW recommends. Another reason never trust AAA. Why would somebody in his right mind put a battery bigger than recommended without putting more powerful alternator? And yes, they charged the previous owner $215 for it...!?
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After 1000 miles, check engine light went off. P0021 - Camshaft Position A - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 2)
Symptoms are as follows:
- Car is running well (no missing, smooth power)
- Barely noticeable engine noise sounds like a clock "ticking," not loud enough to hear with the hood closed. NOT A RATTLE like it was before we rebuilt the engine.
- Idling is a bit weird: slightly jumps from 650 to 750(800), like it tries to correct itself...??
I thought it was a sensor, so I put a brand new one. The code came back.
Can the rebuilt VANOS get stuck in one position? Or we screwed up the timing? It was running great with no codes for almost 1000 miles?!
Artifically Aspirated
Moderator
Your trigger wheel is slightly off, seems to happen fairly frequently after chain guide jobs. Were you positive the cam lock blocks stayed flush with the back of the head when you torqued the vanos center bolt?
If yes, then.........
Take the valve cover off, score the wheel and the vanos so you know where you started from, then loosen the 24mm nut, then turn the trigger wheel a few deg CW looking at it from the front of the car.
Member
Thank you kindly for your advice. It turned out we really did move the trigger wheel while we were tightening the 24mm nut. We didn't have the best timing tool, so had to use a cheap Chinese made one, which allows a tiny bit of play even if the cam lock blocks stayed flush with the back of the head when we torqued the VANOS center bolt.
To fix the problem we decided to use germanautosolutions.com tool so that we won't screw up again. The engine is running like a brand new! Thanks a million!
m62vanostimingtool3.jpg
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