i used the flywheel bolts that came with it, but used new oem pressure plate bolts. and get a sachs throwout bearing, the ones that come with the kit looks like junk. now is a good time to change out the pivot pin while its out, i used a steel one
yeah looks like they renamed it, exact kit i have... yeah i used a Sachs through out bearing, the clutch alignment tool they supply,(theres 2) one labeled BMW the other "toyota"... use the Toyota one, its the correct one with the right size through out bearing race. i used the TB and the tool labeled "BMW"... went to put the trans to the motor, could NOT figure out why it wouldnt go into the engine... the bearing was too small for the input flange... so take the bearing.. slide it onto the trans input shaft and make sure it fits before you get to that point.. then slide the bearing over the tool to make sure its the right one.. maybe they corrected the tool by now... who knows
Last edited by TH3 Shifty; 11-12-2017 at 08:06 PM.
98 Estoril ///M3 4/6
S54 swap CSL
If you custom make a DME cubby on the driverside and hand wire the swap components yourself, you can save close to $1000 in just harnesses.
If I do another - this is what I will do.
Got some more work done, mostly trans stuff.
- replaced the detents
- rebuilt the shift linkage with new bushings and gear selector connection
- installed single mass flywheel and clutch kit including pilot bearing and throw out bearing.
-mounted the trans to the engine and installed starter
Hope to install the engine tomorrow.
One question though, I installed the fat domed shaped part of the sprung clutch disc towards the flywheel. This is the correct orientation for the grip force clutch correct? See pic.
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Update:
She in
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Sexy.
1999 M3/2/5 - Titanium Silver - Track/Weekend Toy
Nice. Now you have the hard part to do!
'03 911 Turbo 6MT fun car
'18 Toyota Land Cruiser Daily driver/Ski Machine/Off Roader
'15 Cayenne Diesel Wife's DD
'17 KTM 690 "Adv" 2 wheeled Adventurer
well you're pretty much on par with me right now.. i have had ZERO time to work on it in over 2 weeks so far.. hope to get back at it on tuesday/wednesday.. those are my scheduled days off..
98 Estoril ///M3 4/6
S54 swap CSL
Excellent, we should be able to help eachother since we are as at the same stage
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So I got my harness from Andrew the other day. I started to hook everything up and pretty sure I have it all together correctly. I only had one unused connection left over (see pic 2 white connector) does anyone know what it's for?
Anyways it's quite the jumble of wires once everything is connected to the DME. Has anyone actually shoved all that mess into the DME compartment? I tried giving it a go and it was very difficult getting everything in there, let alone putting the black plastic cover back over it......
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welcome to my current world... the dreaded harness placement...
98 Estoril ///M3 4/6
S54 swap CSL
look here for some wiring info PITT S54 BUILD and pics.
M52 Power recently updated his thread with a ceiling mounted DME cradle which leaves a decent amount of room in the DME slot.
What I did was extend the wiring of the relays and fuse pack to the E36 fuse box so I don't have to open the cubby every time I need to change or check a relay, that also freed up room.
Other guys have somehow just shoved everything in...I don't like that method.
The white 2 prong should be the Ebox fan and its not needed. The two red are your constant hot to the fuse pack/relays.
wiring.jpg That's the relay and fuse pack diagram I made for reference.
wiring 2.jpg This one shows the B+ tower sources. They're different and it matters where you hook DME power, fuse box power and ALT / starter power. X6430 is what you want to power your DME, Main relays and fuse pack. X60432 powers your main fuse box.
Last thing, I see you have the diagnostic plug in the engine bay there. What that part of Andrews harness option now? If not, use this to wire it in. The blue wire from D100 Pin 12 goes to X17 Pin6, I forgot to label it on the diagram! Anything gray is just a different connection point depending on whether you keep the plug under the hood or move it to the cabin.
X5sR2c.jpg
Last edited by PITT M3 RR; 12-09-2017 at 07:53 PM.
Thanks for posting that, although makes my eyes cross haha. I definitely agree on the relays they are in a difficult spot taking up to much room. I was getting rammy and frustrated so I decided to quit for the night. Will try again tomorrow.
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No problem, I can explain specifics if you need. It’s pretty straightforward Once you’re holding everything. Do you have the electronic troubleshooting manual’s?
Last edited by mitch500; 12-10-2017 at 08:42 AM.
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99 E36 ETM
01 Z3M ETM (Same as E46M DME)
- - - Updated - - -
97 E36 ETM
So played around today for a bit fitting the wiring in the DME compartment. It fits but is tight and a little ugly with the wiring coming out the right side of the cover.
I ran i to a road block and unsure what to do. So I have the z3m harness, the fat red power wire coming out of the z3m harness on the passenger side do I connect that to the top post on the jumper block? Then the other end of that wire goes to the fuse box?
Also, In Andrews instrxutions that came with the adaptor it says to use the e36 starter cable? Do I need to use this or is the red connector on the z3m harness what I use?
Pics:
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Oops, didn’t see all the pics loaded. But I used the one with the big nut for the starter
Last edited by brokeazz; 12-10-2017 at 07:13 PM.
You take out the Z3M red cable in the first pic and use the E36 one, its longer... one side goes to the fuse box and the other goes to the B+ tower, the only one without a nut in your second pic.
Ok so I attached a pic for confirmation. I remove the big red cable from the z3m harness and use the e36 m3 because it's longer and reaches original b+ morning spot. I moved my b+ to try and reach the z3m so that makes sense to me now... I'll move it back
Picture shows the connections on the b+, you say connect to the one with no nut? So number 1 in the picture?
originally when I removed the s52 it was attached to #3 location. Just want to confirm #1 location as I would technically have to bend the wire around the b+ box.
Sorry for making this more difficult that it is.
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The way mine is, the alternator wire goes to #3 the one with the bigger nut in your pic, and what Pitt said the #1 goes to the fuse block on the driver side
ok so i re looked at pitt m3 wiring diagram and that makes sense now. only other question is the starter wire, the Z3M harness its integrated into it. It comes out of the black box by the engine block. Do i keep it this way or is it supposed to be wired to the B+ box via a individual wire.......
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Yes, connect that too. It’s from your alternator, that’s how it’s gonna charge your battery. It goes like this, Red wire from the black box to starter, then use your stock red 4 gauge from starter to the B post
Last edited by brokeazz; 12-11-2017 at 10:47 PM.
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